Cooking Octopus: Simpler Than You Think

Octopus can seem like a tricky ingredient, slippery even for experienced chefs. However, it’s not as hard to cook as you might think. While it requires some time, following the straightforward steps from veteran seafood chef Alvin Binuya will lead to a dish worthy of a high-end restaurant. This technique is a favorite at Ponti Seafood Grill, the Seattle hotspot where Binuya has been working on and off since the 1990s.

Poaching is the secret to transforming octopus from tough and rubbery to tender and succulent. Chef Binuya advises, 'Poach it for about 90 minutes,' making sure the liquid is gently simmering, not boiling.

Before you even start cooking, sourcing sustainable seafood is crucial, according to Binuya. 'Octopus in the Northwest is typically bycatch, caught alongside other fish, so availability is unpredictable,' he shared. After an extensive search, he found a steady supply off the coast of Baja, Mexico, where octopuses weighing 2 to 5 pounds are caught daily. These are sold frozen in supermarkets nationwide. Thanks to improvements in seafood freezing techniques, the selection has grown, and it's now common to cook seafood from frozen—a trend that's gaining popularity.

Photo credit: Leslie Kelly.

Once the octopus is cooked, it's ready for a quick sear on the grill or under the broiler. 'Remove the legs and discard the body. Depending on their size, you can keep the legs whole or slice them into pieces. Drizzle with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. The grill should be hot, and use tongs to move the octopus around to prevent burning. When the ends begin to crisp up, it's time to remove it from the heat,' Binuya advises.

Grilled octopus makes an irresistible focal point on any Mediterranean dish, and Chef Binuya earns high praise for his mushroom and bean variation. Here's the recipe.

Chef Alvin Binuya’s Char-Grilled Octopus

Poaching liquid ingredients:

1 cup red wine (we use a zinfandel, but any good table wine will work fine)
6 cups water
2 cups mirepoix (a mix of chopped onions, celery, carrots)
1 tablespoon chopped garlic
2 teaspoon dry thyme
2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon crushed red chili flakes

Bring the liquid to a gentle simmer and add a 2- to 3-pound octopus. Weigh it down with a plate to keep it fully submerged. Cover and simmer slowly for 90 minutes. Once done, remove the octopus from the liquid and chill thoroughly. Then, cut the octopus into individual legs, discarding the liquid, head, and beak. Just before serving, sear the legs on a hot grill or under the broiler for 3 to 4 minutes, turning frequently. Serve over a wild mushroom and bean ragout.

2 tablespoon olive oil
½ julienne onion
1 teaspoon chopped garlic
1/2# wild mushrooms
Splash of dry white wine, 2-3 tablespoons
¼ cup heavy cream
1-15-ounce can cannellini beans, drained and rinsed
1 teaspoon chopped parsley

Sauté the onions in olive oil over medium-high heat until they begin to caramelize. Add the mushrooms and cook until soft. Pour in the wine and let it simmer for 1 minute, then stir in the cream and beans and cook for another minute or two. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Garnish with freshly chopped parsley.

Serves 2 people.

Simple Grilled Octopus

Here’s another fantastic recipe for tender grilled octopus. 'Tenderized octopus, char-grilled and topped with extra virgin olive oil, a squeeze of fresh lemon, and a sprinkle of fresh parsley,' says Kim's Cooking Now. 'Simple, yet utterly satisfying!''