12 essential insights before visiting Georgia

With its stunning yet rugged mountain landscapes, vibrant culture, and Soviet heritage, Georgia was once seen as a challenging destination favored by adventurous backpackers. Fortunately, visiting Georgia has become much simpler, and tourism now plays a significant role in the country's economy.

Having explored Georgia for over two decades, I’ve witnessed the country evolve dramatically, yet it remains comfortingly familiar in many ways. Few places can match the unique appeal that endears Georgia to first-time travelers, and it’s uncommon not to hear visitors praising the country after their trip. Here are some tips I often share with those eager to experience the wonders of the land known as Saqartvelo.

1. Allow ample time for your exploration

Georgia may look small on a map, leading some first-time visitors to think they can see it all in just a few days. However, the mountainous landscape and limited infrastructure mean that travel times between regions can be lengthy. Plan for at least three full days in the capital, Tbilisi, and ideally a week to experience some of the top attractions in Georgia. If you're short on time, internal flights to the mountains can save you a day's drive each way.

2. Bring clothing suitable for varying climates

Summers can be sweltering in the lowlands, but as you ascend, especially in the High Caucasus, temperatures drop sharply, necessitating a fleece and jacket, even in July. Georgia is generally laid-back about attire, with the exception of churches, where it’s best to avoid revealing clothing. Women are expected to cover their heads and may need to wear (church-provided) wrap skirts to conceal their pants.

3. Brace yourself for rough driving conditions

Any seasoned driver who has navigated roads abroad should feel comfortable behind the wheel in Georgia. Over the past two decades, the country’s roads have significantly improved, with most now paved. However, they typically remain single-lane, often filled with potholes, and frequently lack markings or lighting after dark. Only the notoriously challenging route to Tusheti should be attempted by confident drivers in 4WD vehicles.

4. Local advice trumps apps for driving routes

While you may rely on apps for routing at home, Georgia isn’t the place to let technology dictate your journey. Although apps can be useful, always consult locals before embarking on a lengthy drive, as they can provide insights that your app may miss regarding road quality or surface conditions. In the South Caucasus, opting for a longer, more scenic route can often be more rewarding!

5. Watch out for sheepdogs in the mountains

Caucasian sheepdogs are bred to be protective and can be dangerous, so it's best to give them plenty of space while hiking. Carrying a stick is advisable. Additionally, avoid getting too close to livestock herds—sheepdogs can appear suddenly, which might catch you off guard.

6. Understand political sensitivities

While knowing Russian can help with older generations who may not speak English, remember that many younger Georgians view it as a reminder of colonial oppression from a long-occupied territory. The breakaway regions of South Ossetia and Abkhazia are sensitive topics, so approach these discussions carefully if you wish to hear local opinions.

7. Moderation is key with chacha

Chacha, Georgia's potent version of grappa, is the national beverage you’re bound to encounter during your trip. While store-bought varieties typically have an alcohol content of about 40%, homemade versions can be significantly stronger, so it's wise to be cautious when you're inevitably offered a glass.

8. Avoid toasting with beer

In Georgia, beer is reserved for toasting enemies, so always have wine or chacha ready if you find yourself at a traditional feast, known as a supra. Toasts, usually led by a designated toastmaster (tamada), come with many traditions, but you can easily join in by drinking when others do.

9. Rural regions tend to be quite conservative

After spending a weekend in Tbilisi, you might get a skewed impression of how progressive Georgians can be. A visit to a remote area, especially in the mountains, will provide a more balanced view. While locals are friendly and hospitable, traditional patriarchal values still hold sway, and you may encounter some old-fashioned attitudes. If you’re single and childless, brace yourself for some blunt inquiries about your choices.

10. Opt for bottled water in the lowlands

While mountain water is usually excellent and safe to drink, it's advisable to stick with bottled water in the lowlands, especially in larger cities, where it's both affordable and widely available. The upside is that you’ll have plenty of opportunities to sample Georgia’s famed mineral water, Borjomi.

11. Utilize Tbilisi’s underpasses to navigate busy streets

Navigating the streets of Tbilisi, especially along Rustaveli Avenue, can be challenging for pedestrians. Fortunately, numerous underpasses provide safe crossings, and using them is advisable given the chaotic traffic conditions.

12. A small tip is appreciated in larger cities

As international tourism has grown, tipping culture has taken hold in Georgia, mainly in Tbilisi, Batumi, and Kutaisi. Generally, leaving a 10% cash tip for good service in mid-range and upscale restaurants is appropriate, although it isn't always expected. Keep in mind that tips added to credit card payments may not reach your server.