3 days in Paris: a perfect itinerary (after you've seen the Louvre and Eiffel Tower)

I visit Paris whenever possible—I've been around 10 times or more. Friends and family often ask for my recommendations on what to do, where to eat and drink, and what to buy. With the Olympics just concluded and Paris in the spotlight, I thought it would be useful to compile all my suggestions into a comprehensive weekend itinerary for you.

To begin, I've mapped out a relaxed first day to help you get acclimated. As the itinerary progresses, it features more activities in popular neighborhoods as well as hidden gems in Paris that are truly local favorites. But before diving into the fun, here are some important considerations to keep in mind before booking your trip.

• Best time to visit: If possible, arrive on Thursday and stay for three days (many museums, shops, and restaurants close on Sunday and Monday). The optimal seasons to visit are March to May and September to October, when crowds are thinner and the weather is pleasant.
• Airport transfers: Most international flights land at Charles de Gaulle Airport. You can take the direct RER B train, which stops at key stations in Paris, including Gare du Nord, offering excellent city transport connections.
• Getting around the city: The quickest way to navigate Paris is via the Metro and RER trains. Use the RATP, IDF Mobilités, and SNCF apps for trip planning. The most economical travel option is the Navigo Easy card, which you can download for free through the RATP app and use for contactless payment or purchase at Metro and RER stations. Biking is also a fantastic way to explore, especially with the recently expanded network of cycling lanes. Rent bikes by the hour or at fixed daily or weekly rates from operators like Paris à vélo, Rentabike Paris, and Vélib.
• Packing essentials: Your packing checklist is right here.

Thursday: Latin Quarter, Ile de Paris, Charonne

Morning: Begin your day with a stop at Mokonuts Bakery for a coffee and a delightful treat. This cozy, popular cafe just off Rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine is a local favorite, known for its chewy cookies in unique flavors like miso-sesame, olive-white chocolate, and coconut-Aosa (dried seaweed), though you can opt for the classic peanut butter and chocolate chip as well. 

How to spend your day: Enjoy a leisurely walk across the Seine to the Latin Quarter, one of Paris's historic districts. Along the way, browse the bouquinistes, the open-air booksellers that have adorned the riverbanks since the 19th century. Continue to Shakespeare and Company, the famous English-language bookstore that takes you back to a more tranquil, bygone Paris despite the steady stream of visitors. I love that this bookstore invites you to linger; find a comfortable chair to dive into your book selections—preferably near the cozy spot where the resident cat is napping. 

From there, head to Notre Dame (set to fully reopen to visitors by December 2024) or take a short stroll to Conciergerie. Known as the place where Marie Antoinette and other revolutionaries spent their final days, Conciergerie also boasts Europe’s largest surviving medieval hall, Salle des Gens d’Armes, which regularly features art, culture, and history exhibitions. If the weather is nice, pop next door to the small chapel of Sainte-Chapelle to witness the world's largest collection of 13th-century stained glass dazzling in the sunlight. On warmer days, cross back over the river, pick up an iced coffee from Café Nuances, and savor it in the Jardins des Tuileries.

Dinner: Recommending Septime, one of my top picks in Paris, is somewhat risky. The challenge isn’t the food (which is absolutely exquisite), but the fact that they don’t accept reservations and it’s always packed. You might get lucky that night, but if not, put your name on the waiting list and head over to their lovely wine bar next door, Septime La Cave (one of our favorite late-night spots) while you wait. If you prefer not to wait, consider Waly Fay (just a two-minute walk), a Senegalese restaurant famous for its delicious aloco (fried plantains and fish dumplings in tomato sauce), or Bistrot Paul Bert (five minutes away), where you can reserve a table for classic dishes like steak frites.

Friday: Le Marais, Oberkampf

Morning: Start your day early with a walk through Le Marais to appreciate the stunning medieval and Renaissance architecture, including the 17th-century Place des Vosges and the Picasso Museum located in the Hôtel Salé. For breakfast, enjoy a coffee paired with the delightful cacio e pepe sandwich at Christophe Louie, finishing with a rose brioche.

How to spend the day: A New Yorker once remarked that Le Marais resembles the West Village, and I can see the similarity with its cozy cafes, galleries, and boutiques. Spend your day exploring this artistic district, popping into unique shops like Merci for home goods, Boketto for trendy vintage furniture, Mélodies Graphiques for exquisite stationery, and Thank God I’m a VIP for vintage fashion. When lunch rolls around, head to Chez Janou (make sure to book in advance and save room for the renowned chocolate mousse) or enjoy a charcuterie platter with wine at The Butcher of Paris in Marché des Enfants Rouges.

Afterward, take advantage of the free museums in the area. The Musée Carnavalet features an outstanding collection of artifacts that celebrate Parisian history, alongside one of the most charming museum bookstores. At Maisons Victor Hugo, you can delve into the personal belongings of the iconic poet and novelist.

Dinner: While Le Marais isn’t my top choice for dinner unless you manage to secure a reservation at Parcelles (good luck!), consider taking the Metro (about a 15-minute ride to the Arts et Métiers stop) for some natural wine and a snack (specifically the delicious giant butter beans with mandarin oil) at the quaint La Buvette wine bar. Then, take a five-minute walk to Le Servan for French cuisine with an Asian influence. The seasonal menu changes frequently, but I can assure you that I’ve never had a dish here that I didn’t adore. 

Saturday: St-Ouen, Montmartre, Belleville

Morning: The Marché aux Puces St-Ouen, known as 'Les Puces,' is the largest flea market globally and operates on weekends and Mondays just outside Paris. To reach it, head to Porte de Clignancourt via Line 4. Even if shopping isn't on your agenda, the vibrant atmosphere and people-watching make it worth a visit; you'll see a fascinating mix of stylish locals and eccentric characters—truly a snapshot of Parisian life. Arrive mid-morning to dodge the afternoon rush, as it can get quite crowded. Start your day with a coffee at La Chope des Puces. Once you're energized, explore Paul Bert for vintage fashion treasures, Serpette for antique kitchenware, designer bags, and exquisite silk scarves, and Vernsaison for charming knick-knacks and art.

How to spend the day: Catch the Metro to Montmartre, getting off at Barbès - Rochechouart (about a 20-minute ride). Although this area is one of the most frequented in Paris, it's undeniably beautiful. Steer clear of the overpriced brasseries and souvenir shops to discover plenty to enjoy. Visit Picasso's former studio, Le Bateau Lavoir, browse the quaint Musée de Montmartre to delve into the area's bohemian history, and meander through the winding streets to find the windmills that inspired Van Gogh. Check out the fabric shops in St Pierre, then make your way to Halle St-Pierre, an Art Nouveau gem featuring intriguing art exhibits and a delightful on-site cafe perfect for lunch.

Evening: Belleville is one of my favorite neighborhoods in Paris, exuding a truly local vibe. Start your night with innovative cocktails at lively Combat that boast unusual flavor combinations. When dinner time arrives, choose between the bistro-style L'Orillion (don't miss the pork belly with apples and hazelnuts), Le Cheval D'Or for Asian-inspired French and Italian dishes, La Colline for a genuine neighborhood experience (their fried sardines with padron peppers are a dream), or Candide (the broccoli with anchovy butter to start and Normandy chicken with crispy fries for the main course make a perfect meal).

Wrap up your weekend at Studio de l'Ermitage, a jazz club offering live music on Saturdays until late. If jazz isn't your scene, hop on the Metro to Porte de St-Ouen station (near the flea market) and visit Hasard Ludique, a vibrant, welcoming bar and dance hall hosting regular events. Set within a former train station along Paris' abandoned railway line, it's an excellent spot to mingle with locals. If you want to arrive early, skip dinner in Belleville and try Les deux Coupoles instead. They serve fantastic bistro classics accompanied by an 80s music soundtrack, and Hasard Ludique is just a 10-minute stroll away.

Got extra time? Consider exploring one of our top day trips from Paris.