8 fantastic hikes in Northern Spain

Northern Spain, often referred to as Green Spain, contrasts with much of the country by showcasing swift rivers, mountain lakes, lush meadows, verdant valleys, rugged peaks, and dramatic coastal cliffs, alongside sandy beaches and crashing waves. With countless trails both short and long, it's a paradise for walkers.

The Cordillera Cantábrica mountain range runs parallel to the northern coastline, peaking in the strikingly rugged and deeply carved Picos de Europa. The coast offers an unbroken stretch of breathtaking views, reaching its pinnacle in Galicia, a unique region in the northwest of Spain.

1. Ruta del Cares

Top canyon hike

23km (14 miles) round trip, 6½ hours, moderate difficulty

The canyon sculpted by the Río Cares through the Picos de Europa might just be Spain's most beloved mountain hike, and for good reason: the breathtaking views never falter as you traverse the 1000m-deep gorge, with towering rock spires reaching for the heavens and the enchanting blue river flowing far below.

The trail (PRPNPE3) connects the quaint villages of Poncebos (at the northern end) and Caín. You can walk it in either direction or both. A popular choice, accessible to any reasonably fit hiker, is a there-and-back journey from Poncebos. You'll gain about 250m in elevation during the first 2km, after which the path is mostly downhill or level to Caín.

As you make your way, you'll traverse a few tunnels, pass beneath rocky overhangs, walk along a 23-meter cliffside boardwalk, cross side streams, and finally navigate three bridges spanning the gorge as you near Caín. While there are steep drops along many stretches of the path, it remains consistently 1m to 2m wide, allowing for safe passage without needing to walk too close to the edge.

2. Lires to Cabo Fisterra

Premier coastal hike

22.5km (14 miles) one-way, 6½ hours, challenging

With so many stunning coastal walks in northern Spain, it's difficult to choose a favorite, but we believe the final segment of the Camiño dos Faros (Lighthouse Way) deserves the top spot. This thrilling 200-kilometer route meanders through Galicia’s breathtaking Costa da Morte (Coast of Death), named for its numerous shipwrecks.

Beginning in the estuary village of Lires, the undulating trail leads you to expansive, wild Atlantic beaches like Praia do Rostro and Praia do Mar de Fora, where the relentless surf crashes in (swimming is not advised). The path passes by the Iron Age hill fort Castro de Castromiñán, traverses capes such as Cabo da Nave, and includes several stretches along the cliffs. Proceed with caution!

The route is marked by small green arrows or paint blobs that can be easily overlooked, so be sure to check the website for maps and additional information beforehand. If you're uneasy with heights, you might want to steer clear of the cliffside sections after Castro de Castromiñán and Praia de Arnela. To avoid the first, you can take an inland detour through the hamlets of Castromiñán and Denle. To bypass the second, skip the 'Praia de Arnela' turn after Denle and veer right just 15 meters past it; you can rejoin the main route shortly before Cabo da Nave.

You conclude your journey at the lighthouse on Cabo Fisterra (Cape Finisterre), traditionally viewed as Spain’s 'Land’s End' (though the actual westernmost point of the Spanish mainland lies a few kilometers to the north). Here, you'll meet Camino de Santiago pilgrims and tourists who gather to witness the sunset over the ocean. From the lighthouse, it's a km walk (or a €5 taxi ride if preferred) to the charming small fishing town of Fisterra.

3. Illas Cíes

Top island hike, most accessible walk

14km (8.7 miles) round trip, 4½ hours, easy

The stunning national-park Cíes Islands, dramatically rising from the Atlantic off southern Galicia, offer a fantastic day of walking along well-marked paths leading to lighthouses, clifftop viewpoints, and sandy beaches kissed by clear (if brisk) waters. Some trails are wheelchair-friendly, and the national park provides free wheelchairs at the information kiosk near the main jetty (call 886 21 80 90 or 886 21 80 82, or email [email protected] or [email protected] in advance to check availability).

Reaching the Cíes involves a 30-to-45-minute ferry ride from the mainland, which adds to the adventure. Be sure to pack plenty of water for your day. Ferries dock near the southern end of the northernmost island, where the beautiful 1km sandy crescent of Praia de Rodas beckons to your left. Cross the causeway to the middle island and follow the trail to the lighthouse atop Monte Faro, the highest point of the islands (175m above sea level), offering breathtaking views of the rugged coastline. On your return, stop by the relatively serene Praia de Nosa Señora or dine at one of the three restaurants near Praia de Rodas. Then head to the northern island for another spectacular viewpoint, Alto do Príncipe, and visit the Faro do Peito lighthouse, concluding with a relaxing break at the lovely Praia das Figueiras.

Unguided visits to the islands are allowed during Easter week and from 15 May to 15 September. During these times, several companies, including Naviera Mar de Ons and Nabia Naviera, operate ferries from Vigo, Cangas, Baiona, and other ports. It’s wise to make reservations well in advance, as the islands have a daily visitor limit of 1800 that can fill up weeks ahead during July and August. First, you’ll need a free national-park authorization, available via the ferry websites; you’ll receive a code valid for two hours to book your boat tickets.

4. Picu Urriellu

Ideal for climbers

13km (8 miles) round trip, 5½ hours, challenging

No rock formation in Spain rivals the beauty of Picu Urriellu, also known as El Naranjo de Bulnes, which juts up like a colossal thumb, soaring 500 vertical meters in the heart of the Picos de Europa. Climbers travel from far and wide to tackle its awe-inspiring walls; however, the trek to its base offers a thrilling experience that is well within reach for fit hikers, featuring about 830m of ascent and descent.

The easiest route begins from an unpaved road located 5km west of Sotres village, with parking available about 500m past La Robre, a collection of herders' cabins. Follow the PRPNPE21 sign, and within minutes, you'll reach the Collado de Pandébano, a wide grassy saddle. From there, simply follow the well-marked PRPNPE21 southwest to the Refugio de Urriellu (a mountain refuge for hikers and climbers) at the base of Picu Urriellu, crossing grassy hillsides with lush woodlands cascading below.

At Collado Vallejo, 2.6km from the Collado de Pandébano, the scenery shifts dramatically. The terrain becomes rockier and more rugged. You might catch sight of some chamois bounding about. The ascent grows steeper, winding upward as the towering monolith of Picu Urriellu draws nearer. After enjoying the breathtaking views around the Refugio de Urriellu, and perhaps grabbing a refreshment, simply retrace your steps.

5. Somiedo Lakes

Premier lake hike

Short version: 14.5km (9 miles) round trip, 4½ hours, easy; Long version: 26.5km (16.5 miles) round trip, 8½ hours, challenging

The Parque Natural de Somiedo in Asturias is a mountainous paradise filled with lush green valleys, rugged peaks, charming thatched herders' cabins known as teitos, and the sound of cowbells echoing through upland pastures. The park's signature hike takes you from the serene farming village of Valle de Lago to the stunningly picturesque lake Lago del Valle, nestled in a glacial cirque surrounded by towering mountains. There are two routes available: the more scenic Camino de la Sombra (Shady Path) and the slightly shorter Camino del Sol (Sunny Path). You can ascend one and return via the other.

For a longer and more challenging hike, take the PRAS15 path that ascends from the northeast corner of Lago del Valle. After a few turns, this path leads northwest up to a pass called Llomba de Camayor, then turns southeast through two grassy upland valleys, the Vega de Camayor and Vega de Fresneu, ultimately reaching the four Lagos de Saliencia, which lie in deep, remote mountain bowls. From the viewpoint overlooking the fourth lake, Lago La Cueva, retrace your steps past Llomba de Camayor. As you descend beyond this point, veer right at a large stone field and follow the path as it shifts from southeast to northwest, developing into a gently sloping dirt track that connects with the Camino del Sol for your return to Valle de Lago.

6. Puertos de Áliva

Perfect for cable car enthusiasts, best downhill hike

15km (9.3 miles) one-way, 4½ hours, easy

The beauty of the Puertos de Áliva circuit in the Picos de Europa lies in how you reach the starting point—perched high on the Picos' 600m southern face—via the exhilarating Teleférico de Fuente Dé cable car, which whisks you from the valley floor to the top in just four minutes. From there, it’s a short 1km uphill walk (gaining 100m elevation) to the track junction at Horcadina de Covarrobres, after which you continue along the PRPNPE24. This well-marked trail descends all the way, taking you beneath towering rock formations, across picturesque pastures, and through shaded oak and beech forests, returning you to Fuente Dé where you first boarded the cable car. The remote Hotel Áliva, located 3km down from the Horcadina, provides a convenient spot for refreshments.

7. Ruta Cañón do Río Mao

Ideal for woodlands and historical sites

16.5km (10.3 miles) round trip, 6½ hours, moderate

The Ribeira Sacra in southeast Galicia presents a striking and rugged landscape of deep river valleys, steep vineyards, stone-built villages, medieval monasteries, and lush chestnut and oak forests. The Río Mao Canyon trail (PRG177), marked with yellow-and-white indicators, combines all the best elements. It starts at A Fábrica da Luz, a hostel and activity center located 11km east of Parada de Sil village. The trail descends the canyon, initially along an 850m boardwalk, leading to Barxacova village, before climbing past vineyards and through woodlands to San Lourenzo, A Miranda, and Forcas villages. The return route includes the medieval bridge of Conceliñas, two canals (one no longer in use) from hydroelectric projects, and an intriguing medieval necropolis at San Lourenzo. In total, you’ll experience about 700m of ascent and descent. For a shorter option, you can take a direct 5km return to A Fábrica from San Lourenzo.

8. Camino Primitivo

Top choice for long-distance hiking

320km (199 miles) one-way, approximately 14 days, challenging

Spain’s renowned pilgrimage route, the historic Camino de Santiago (Way of St James), consists of numerous paths that all lead to the stunning capital of Galicia, Santiago de Compostela. This grand city is home to a magnificent cathedral, believed to house the remains of St James the Apostle. The classic and highly popular Camino Francés (French Way) begins in St-Jean Pied de Port, France, and stretches over 750km across northern Spain, typically taking five to six weeks to complete. Various other Caminos also converge in Santiago from across Spain and Europe. For those seeking a moderate-length journey, the Camino Primitivo (Original Way) is perfect, tracing the path of the first documented pilgrimage to St James’ tomb by King Alfonso II of Asturias in the 820s. It features historic cities, charming small towns, and breathtaking landscapes as you traverse the lush hills from Asturias into Galicia. The number of pilgrims on this route is relatively low (around 5% of the 400,000-plus annual visitors to the pilgrimage office in Santiago), ensuring a sense of community among walkers.

Essential tips for trekking in northern Spain

The best months for walking are June to September, offering generally warm and mostly dry conditions. Trails see the highest foot traffic during Easter week and from mid-July to late August, coinciding with peak holiday periods in Spain. Snow may remain at higher altitudes in the Picos de Europa until June or July, so winter hikes are best avoided.

• Bring a reliable trail map or GPS device.

• Carry ample water and be prepared for weather changes, especially in mountainous areas.

• The walking times mentioned in this article are approximate and do not account for breaks for food, rest, or photographs.

• For more detailed information on most of the walks highlighted here and many others in Spain, consider getting a copy of Dinogo Planet’s Best Day Walks Spain.