9 Essential Tips Before Embarking on Patagonia’s Torres del Paine Iconic Treks

As I ascended John Gardner Pass, the highest point of Torres del Paine’s famed O trek in Chilean Patagonia, hail and 70 mph winds whipped against my face. The journey began hours before dawn, enveloped in darkness. Now, with the toughest stretch behind me, I was finally rewarded with a view: a rainbow—one of many that day—spanning the jagged crevasses of Grey Glacier and the Southern Patagonian Ice Field. Overcome with exhaustion and exhilaration, my eyes stung from the wind—or perhaps it was the sheer wonder of the seemingly infinite ice cap before me.

Everything here feels and appears extreme—after all, it is Patagonia.

Patagonia embodies adventure, in part due to the outdoor gear brand that shares its name (along with its founder’s commitment to conservation). The mere mention of the name evokes visions of glaciers cascading into turquoise lakes, vast golden plains, towering granite spires, elusive pumas, and wide-eyed guanacos (the wild relatives of llamas).

This land of extremes is fully accessible within Torres del Paine National Park. Known as 'the crown jewel of Patagonia,' this expansive 448,280-acre park attracts hikers from every corner of the globe. The optimal way to experience its beauty is through one of the park’s iconic multi-day treks along well-maintained trails, with convenient campsites and lodges available along the route.

After traveling to Chile for an Antarctica expedition last February, I couldn’t resist the opportunity to extend my journey to Patagonia. Following 18 days at sea, I yearned for freedom, open landscapes, and a physical challenge. Thus, the full O trek was the perfect choice for me, but the tips below apply to both classic routes: the O and the W.

Here’s what you should know before embarking on a multi-day trek in Patagonia’s Torres del Paine National Park.

1. Decide between the strenuous O trek or the shorter, more frequented W trek

Torres del Paine offers two multi-day trekking routes: the O (a complete circuit covering 85 miles over eight to nine days) and the W (the lower half of the circuit at 46 miles over four to seven days). The W is the more favored option due to its shorter duration and the bypassing of arguably the most challenging segment, the John Gardner Pass, which ascends 3,940 feet over 13.6 miles.

The O trek must be completed counterclockwise, while the W can be tackled in either direction. When you ask hikers about their route choice, time is often a significant factor. Additionally, the upper section of the O features more demanding terrain, and there’s one night where you’ll need to camp and bring your own provisions. In contrast, the W offers cabin options along with full room and board (breakfast, packed lunch, and dinner).

The O trek offers expansive views of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field and runs parallel to the Grey Glacier, while the W trek—essentially the lower half of the O—showcases the trail's most famous highlights: the iceberg-dotted Grey Lake, breathtaking vistas of the Paine massif in the French Valley, and the route leading to the base of the iconic ‘blue towers.’

I opted for the O trek because I had the time and desired the challenge. Thankfully, I could join a group of friends tackling the upper section of the O circuit. After finishing the top half with my friends, who are guides for a WHOA Patagonia trip and experts in backpacking at Operation Adventure, I continued solo on the lower half, or W.

2. Should you hike with a guide or go solo?

Both options have their perks. After my 18-day expedition in Antarctica, I yearned for solitude and the freedom to set my own pace. I enjoyed the best of both worlds by trekking the challenging upper half of the O with friends, then exploring the busier lower section (or W) by myself. I managed the entire trek without a guide, and it felt entirely safe.

The advantages of a self-guided hike include the ability to move at your own speed and savor the tranquility of navigating the trail independently. The path is clearly marked and straightforward to follow. I was initially concerned about getting lost, but I never doubted I was on the right track. I did download the All Trails app in advance, just to be prepared.

Concerned about feeling lonely? Solo hikers will find plenty of social opportunities at the refugios, which are the cabins providing beds, meals, and a small shop for snacks and supplies along the route. Some refugios even have bars, and if you opt for dinner, you'll dine family-style, sharing stories with fellow trekkers from around the world.

Although my entire O circuit adventure was self-guided (even the segment with friends), I relied on local experts from the adventure company Chile Nativo to assist with booking campsites and offering trek tips. Booking independently can be a bit tricky since three different agencies oversee the campsites and refugios in Torres del Paine. You can reserve your spot online through the three websites: Vertice Patagonia, Las Torres, and CONAF.

The advantages of a guided trek with a company like Chile Nativo include leaving all the logistics to the experts while gaining insights about the local flora and fauna from an experienced guide. Additionally, you’ll have a group of fellow hikers to share meals and make memories with. If you're apprehensive about embarking on a multiday hike alone, a guided trek is a sensible choice.

Regardless of whether you choose to hike solo or with a guide, make sure to book well in advance, as campsites fill up quickly. The peak season for hiking and visiting Torres del Paine National Park is during the Patagonian summer months of December through February. I visited in March, when the weather felt more like early fall and there were fewer tourists around.

3. Weather is extremely unpredictable; pack wisely with light layers

Patagonia is famous for its capricious weather. It's often said that you can experience all four seasons in a single day. During my hike down from the John Gardner Pass, I encountered rain, wind, hail, sunshine, and even double rainbows—all within a few hours. Smart, lightweight packing is crucial, focusing on quick-drying, breathable fabrics and light insulating layers.

Rain gear is essential

You’ll need a windproof and waterproof jacket, like the Arc’teryx Beta LT Jacket Hadron ($450, arcteryx.com). With the high winds, a lightweight insulating layer, such as the Helly Hansen Hybrid Insulator Jacket ($200, hellyhansen.com), is indispensable. I wore it constantly and even slept in it on chilly nights. While you might not need rain pants daily, having them on hand for heavy downpours is definitely worthwhile.

Keep your feet dry and free from blisters

My waterproof Lowa Gore-Tex hiking boots (starting at $154, lowaboots.com) kept my feet dry while traversing muddy trails and streams, yet they were lightweight enough for everyday wear. Besides waterproof boots, opt for taller models to provide essential ankle support on steep paths. Don't forget to pack liner socks! I wore two pairs daily—a thin wool liner sock ($15, rei.com) combined with Smartwool’s classic full-cushion hiking socks ($22, rei.com)—which kept my feet blister-free throughout the trek. If blisters are a concern for you, consider bringing moleskin and wrapping tape just in case.

Additional essentials to bring

• First-aid kit
• A wool hat that stays put in strong winds
• Sunglasses and sunscreen, as the sun can be quite intense when it shines

Items to rent on-site

You can rent hiking poles at Rental Natales in Puerto Natales, along with any other gear you might need. Hiking poles are vital for navigating steep trails and alleviating strain on your body; they’re also helpful during windy sections to provide stability—yes, it can get that windy!

Get ready to unplug

Purchase your park pass and save all receipts for refugios and meals on your phone so you can access them without phone signal or Wi-Fi, which won’t be available unless you pay for it at the refugios. (Just a heads up: it’s not cheap and you’ll be charged by the hour.) Some refugios don’t provide internet access at all, so prepare to be completely disconnected.

4. Optimize space in your pack by opting for tent setup and three meals a day

When I reserved my campsites, I included a tent and sleeping bag for each night. This not only lightened my pack but also allowed me to arrive at camp each evening to find my tent already set up. I found the tents and sleeping bags I rented from each refugio to be spotless. To save space in my 32-liter Deuter pack ($170, deuter.com), I selected the full meal plan, which included breakfast, dinner, and a packed lunch. As a pescatarian, I was pleasantly surprised by the vegetarian options available. My first meal at Seron Camp—salmon paired with calafate (Patagonian blueberry) ice cream—was especially memorable. However, be sure to bring your own snacks!

5. You can safely drink water straight from the glacier-fed streams

One thing you should absolutely avoid carrying in Patagonia (or anywhere else, for that matter) is a single-use plastic bottle. Fortunately, you won’t need to wait until reaching camp or the refugios to refill your reusable water bottles. The water in Torres del Paine National Park is generally safe to drink, with some precautions. It’s advisable to avoid streams and rivers close to the refugios due to human activity, but the trail will indicate safe spots for filling up. As long as you fill your bottle from a waterfall or upstream, you should be good. Apps like Far Out or All Trails can help you locate the next water source. If you’re still concerned, consider bringing a Grayl water bottle (from $100, grayl.com) that purifies water in seconds.

6. Don’t be that traveler. Trek mindfully and tread lightly.

Over the past two decades, two wildfires ignited by careless tourists have ravaged more than 74,000 acres of native forests around the Grey Camp area and Pehoe Lake. These slow-growing forests will take a century to recover. It’s crucial to adhere to fire regulations here. Given the extreme winds in the park, only cook in designated areas at the camps.

In addition to adhering to fire regulations, there are some fundamental campsite etiquette rules to follow: Take all your trash with you. Stay on the paths. Don’t carve your name into rocks or take them as souvenirs. Keep music at home during your hike. And please, avoid late-night conversations in your tent; a thin nylon wall offers no soundproofing, and your neighbors will definitely hear you.

7. Don’t worry about pumas—you’ll consider yourself fortunate if you spot one, and it certainly won’t be on the trails.

The iconic wildlife of Torres del Paine is undoubtedly the Patagonia puma. This region boasts the highest concentration of pumas globally. While they inhabit both Chile and Argentina, Chile offers them more protection, as hunting pumas is illegal here. The growth of puma tourism in Chile has bolstered conservation efforts by providing economic benefits to gauchos who previously hunted pumas to safeguard their livestock. Now, these former hunters use their tracking skills for responsible puma observation. Once adversaries, the gaucho and the puma have become partners in conservation.

It’s estimated that between 50 to 200 pumas roam within Torres del Paine National Park. Before embarking on the O trek, I had the chance to go out with the legendary puma tracker, Pepe Wayaja V. Raised as a gaucho tasked with protecting his sheep, he honed an instinct for spotting Patagonia's largest predator. Now, he guides photographers, documentary filmmakers, and eager adventurers to find these elusive creatures. He has even named them and shared insights about the behaviors of his big cat companions.

As of now, there have been no recorded puma attacks on humans in the park. Pumas tend to avoid areas frequented by people, making it unlikely that you'll see one along the trails or at your campsite. Having grown up camping and fearing bears and snakes, I was relieved to know I didn’t have to worry about wild animals during my trek.

8. Don’t miss the opportunity to trek on Grey Glacier

Beyond Antarctica and Greenland, the Southern Patagonian Ice Field ranks as the largest continuous ice field globally. Regrettably, it’s shrinking at some of the highest rates on the planet. Within this ice field lies Grey Glacier, the largest and most awe-inspiring glacier in Torres del Paine, towering nearly 100 feet and stretching four miles wide.

Although it isn’t included in the circuit routes, I strongly recommend spending an additional day at Camp Grey for glacier trekking. Bigfoot Patagonia is currently the sole provider of glacier trekking experiences, offering a five-hour guided trek that explores crevasses, tunnels, and lagoons on Grey Glacier. They also provide the necessary crampons, helmet, and harness for your safety.

To get a closer view of the icebergs calved from Grey Glacier, consider kayaking on Grey Lake. My guide, who is also the owner of Kayak Sin Fronteras, took us so near to a blue iceberg that we brushed it with our hands—before we continued our kayaking adventure down the Serrano River.

For a more relaxed experience, you can admire Grey Glacier from Grey Lake aboard the Grey Navigator boat, sipping on a pisco sour made with ice cubes from ‘bergy bits collected from the lake that morning. As the boat approaches Grey Glacier, you may be fortunate enough to hear a thunderous crack as icebergs calve into Grey Lake. While this calving is a natural phenomenon, it also serves as a stark reminder of the rapid melting of the ice field.

9. Where to stay in Torres Del Paine National Park before and after your hike

Use Puerto Natales as your home base, the adventure hub town located about an hour's drive from the entrance to Torres del Paine National Park. Here, you can find all the necessary gear for your trek. Most hotels offer luggage storage while you’re out on the trails. I found Hotel Vendaval to be a cozy retreat during my downtime, where I refueled with my favorite local dish, paila marina, a traditional Chilean seafood soup. Don’t forget to pick up some carmenere, Chile’s signature red wine, at Wine & Market in town—you’ll have plenty to celebrate after your trek.

For a touch of luxury after a long trek, there are several enticing options within the park. Explora Torres del Paine stands as the only all-inclusive luxury hotel in the park, nestled on the turquoise shores of Pehoe Lake. (Bonus: it boasts the only private boat in the area.) Hotel Lago Grey lies just outside the park, providing stunning views of the iceberg-laden Grey Lake. EcoCamp Patagonia features sustainable dome tents located conveniently off the trail. Meanwhile, Chile Nativo offers glamping-style lotus dome tents along the serene Serrano River, complete with a full-service dining lodge. After a day of adventure, indulge in locally sourced delicacies like king crab and Patagonian lamb.