A 24-Hour Culinary Journey Through Bogotá

BogotáBogotá is a sprawling metropolis of around 8 million people, but it’s essentially a collection of about 20 neighborhoods (known locally as localidades) that were merged into one city years ago. Each neighborhood still retains its own Spanish colonial square and church. Exploring the entire city and its diverse food scene could take months, and even locals admit they don’t know it all. Here’s a guide to experiencing as much as possible in just one day of dining and exploring.

This itinerary covers the northern part of Bogotá, though it’s worth noting the must-try pork bones at Vamos Donde Rafa and the tamales at El Gordo in the southern neighborhoods of Kennedy and Rafael Uribe Uribe. Come hungry: Colombian cuisine is hearty and filling, so plan your meals wisely.

We’ll start in the city’s core:

9 a.m. Start Your Day with Breakfast at Doña Blanca

For decades, this iconic spot in downtown has been serving the local educators and students from Los Andes University. Housed in a charming red building, the neighborhood bakery starts its day at 5 a.m., offering a delightful array of cheesy treats like buñuelos, pandebonos, almojábanas, and pandeyucas, along with traditional tamales. Colombia is known for its variety of tamales, with around 40 different types. The best ones are filled with a mix of corn, chicken, pork, carrots, green peas, potatoes, rice, and a boiled egg, all wrapped in a plantain leaf. Doña Blanca is famous for serving some of the city’s top tamales. Doña Blanca, Carrera 1 # 20A-05, Bogotá

11 a.m. Onces at La Puerta Falsa

Stroll down the Eje Ambiental along the San Francisco River’s canalized waters, and within 15 minutes, you’ll reach Plaza de Bolívar. This central square is the heart of the city, hosting City Hall, Colombia’s high courts, the Congress, and the Primatial Cathedral. Adjacent to the cathedral is La Puerta Falsa, Bogotá’s oldest restaurant, in operation since 1816. This historic Mytoury is renowned for onces santafereñas, a tradition dating back to Bogotá’s Spanish colonial days when it was known as Santa Fé de Bogotá. The term ‘onces,’ meaning “elevens,” refers to the number of letters in aguardiente, the national liquor that local monks would secretly consume. Out of respect, they used this coded reference for the drink.

Today, onces is enjoyed as a mid-morning or afternoon snack, typically consisting of cheese bread paired with a hot beverage like aguapanela (melted raw sugar). For an authentic Bogotá experience, drop cheese into your hot drink and fish it out with a spoon while engaging in conversation with the staff, many of whom have been serving notable politicians and journalists for years. La Puerta Falsa, Calle 11 # 6-50, Bogotá

1 p.m. Lunch at La Perseverancia Marketplace

Bogotá’s localities each boast their own marketplace, but La Perseverancia’s is particularly great for lunch. It’s compact, so you won’t get lost in a maze of options, and the proximity to nearby offices means many vendors stay open late, some until 4 p.m. It’s also a tourist-friendly spot, with its facade recently painted by local muralist Guache. Here, you can sample traditional Colombian dishes from various regions, but be sure to try the ajiaco, Bogotá’s signature stew, from the stand El Concejal. La Perseverancia Marketplace, Carrera 5 # 30A-40, Bogotá

3 p.m. Savory Empanadas at Del Quindío Tienda Café

Colombian empanadas are crescent-shaped delights, deep-fried, made with corn flour, and packed with potatoes and various fillings like meat or cheese. They make for a perfect mid-afternoon treat to enjoy with a cup of coffee. A local favorite in Bogotá is the modest neighborhood tienda named after the coffee-rich Quindío region. Its rustic decor evokes a traditional Quindío coffeehouse, offering a taste of authenticity in the rapidly evolving Chapinero area. Del Quindío Tienda Café, Calle 64 # 8-18, Bogotá

5 p.m. Ice Cream Stop at Orso

This relatively new gelato spot, with three locations all in Chapinero, has quickly won over locals with its dynamic range of intense flavors. Some are nostalgic, like the Kinder egg gelato, while others showcase local produce such as uchuva (ground cherry), feijoa, and guayaba agria (sour guava). Don’t miss the more adventurous options: the basil and white chocolate and banana-chai flavors are especially noteworthy. Orso Heladería, Calle 66 # 4A-08, Bogotá; Carrera 9 # 81A-19, Bogotá; Carrera 11A # 93-94, Bogotá

6 p.m. Coffee Break at Azahar

Colombia is renowned for its coffee, but for many years, the best beans were exported, leaving local coffee lovers with subpar options.

Today, a new wave of coffee culture is bringing premium beans back to Colombia, and Azahar is leading the charge. At Azahar, you can savor coffee from different regions of the country, brewed using techniques like Chemex that highlight their unique flavors. Visit one of their two locations in the evening to unwind after exploring the San Felipe gallery district or the vibrant dining scene at Parque de la 93, which is just a short walk from Orso. Azahar, Calle 74 # 22-91, Bogotá; Calle 93B # 13-91, Bogotá

8 p.m. Dinner at Salvo Patria or Abasto

Nestled in a charming old English-style house, Salvo Patria combines the warmth of a restaurant, coffee shop, and cocktail bar under one roof. Using local, responsibly sourced ingredients, they create internationally inspired dishes like octopus with hogao (a savory tomato sauce) and roasted lamb neck with peto (cornmeal). Originally dedicated to providing exceptional coffee to Colombians, that commitment remains at the heart of their offerings. The menu, though compact, is diverse and features seasonal specials. The meticulous attention to detail is evident in every dish, especially in the delectable milhoja, a layered dessert with dulce de leche. The inviting, fireplace-warmed space feels like a home away from home and is definitely worth a visit.

If Salvo Patria is fully booked or you’re eager to explore more of the city, Abasto offers a fantastic alternative. While Bogotá’s traffic can be a hassle, the Usaquén neighborhood and Abasto’s delicious food make the journey worthwhile. Once a separate suburb, Usaquén is now part of Bogotá and features cobblestone streets around the main square filled with diverse restaurants, bars, and a vibrant weekend flea market.

Abasto operates two locations in the city, with decor inspired by quaint local markets. Their concise yet inventive menu transforms Colombian classics with fresh ingredients, like ají sauce made from lulo. Although dinner is delightful, Abasto is also renowned for having one of the best breakfast and brunch offerings in Bogotá. Salvo Patria, Calle 54A # 4-13, Bogotá; Abasto, Carrera 6 # 119B-52, Bogotá

10 p.m. Nightcap at Red Room

While Usaquén boasts numerous bars, the cocktail scene truly thrives in Chapinero. Red Room is a standout spot, set inside a house recognized as a cultural heritage site. This unique venue, which also features a Portuguese restaurant, is bathed in red hues and hosts live jazz performances on weekends. The cocktail menu is constantly evolving, offering fresh experiences with each visit. Red Room, Calle 70A # 11-64, Bogotá

12 a.m. Party at Armando or Dance at Galería Café Libro

Bogotá’s nightlife is a high-octane experience, with many clubs only getting lively after midnight and often staying open until 3 a.m. Armando Records is a multi-faceted venue with a concert hall, nightclub, terrace, and pizzeria all under one roof. It regularly hosts top Latin American and occasional international bands and DJs. The bartenders here are known for crafting bespoke cocktails upon request.

If you prefer a night of dancing over clubbing, head to Galería Café Libro, a renowned salsa hotspot. Despite the occasional jokes about Bogotanos’ dance moves, this Cuba-inspired bar and restaurant is home to some of the city’s best dancers. On weekends, both of its locations feature live bands that will encourage you to prove the critics wrong with your dancing skills. Armando, Calle 85 #14-46, Bogotá; Galería Café Libro, Transversal 15B # 46-38 (Palermo); Carrera 11A # 93-42 (Parque de la 93), Bogotá

3 a.m. Midnight Munchies at El Cañón del Chicamocha

For those late-night hunger pangs or a hangover remedy, this 24-hour desayunadero (breakfast spot) is your go-to. Operating since 1976, El Cañón del Chicamocha is named after a canyon in Santander and specializes in hearty santandereana dishes. Try the pepitoria (a rich stew made from goat's blood and intestines), mute (a robust casserole with corn, chickpeas, pork head, tripe, cow’s leg, and potatoes), or génovas charaleñas (spherical beef sausages). With a broad selection of meats and soups, this spot may not offer fine dining, but it’s perfect for rejuvenating after a day packed with indulgence. El Cañón del Chicamocha, Calle 57 # 19-40, Bogotá