A beginner's guide to the Catskills

The Catskills mountains in southeastern New York are renowned for their lively arts scene, stunning natural landscapes, and a plethora of ghost tales. This mountainous area primarily includes Ulster and Greene counties, with parts extending into Delaware, Sullivan, and Schoharie counties, attracting travelers for generations, thanks to its rich history and vibrant modern culture.

In his classic ghost story Rip Van Winkle, author Washington Irving remarked that anyone who “has journeyed up the Hudson must recall the Kaatskill mountains,” emphasizing that “each season, every shift in weather, and indeed, every moment of the day, brings a transformation in the enchanting colors and forms of these mountains.”

In the 1800s, the Hudson River School artists came here to capture the landscape on their canvases. From the 1920s to the 1960s, numerous Jewish families from New York City retreated to the Catskills for summer vacations, earning the region the affectionate nickname “The Borscht Belt.”

You'd probably recognize the most iconic of the Catskills' kosher resorts: the Catskill Resort Hotel, which inspired the 1987 film Dirty Dancing (the hotel unfortunately burned down in 2022). Additionally, a 1969 music festival initially set for Woodstock ended up in the nearby Catskill town of Bethel, NY, making headlines and history. Clearly, the Catskills boast a wealth of cultural landmarks.

Why should you explore this region – and why is now the perfect time?

The Catskills have long been a sought-after travel spot, but there’s never been a more opportune moment to discover all that this area has to offer. From trendy dining spots and distinctive new music venues to U-Pick farms, food festivals, and mushroom foraging tours, the Catskills are experiencing a remarkable revival. You'll want to be part of it all.

Here’s a glimpse of the best experiences this diverse part of New York state has to offer, along with tips on when to visit, what to bring, and more.

When is the best time to visit the Catskills?

The quintessential season for visiting the Catskills is autumn, when the leaves burst into brilliant colors and “leaf peepers” descend upon the vibrant mountainsides. However, summer also breathes life into the region’s towns and mountains, offering plenty of opportunities for hiking and swimming in the lakes during those long sunny days. Both summer and fall host a variety of Catskills festivals celebrating music and local produce, with the Margaretville Cauliflower Festival being a standout event.

Naturally, these seasons are the peak times for visitors in the Catskills, so if you prefer to avoid the crowd of fellow leaf admirers on the trails and competing for dinner spots, consider visiting during the shoulder season, like early December. This allows you to skip the autumn and winter holiday rush while enjoying scenic trails all to yourself.

You’ll also have a better chance of finding budget-friendly accommodations during the off-peak season, like early December or early spring, known locally as “mud season.” (Keep in mind that spring also offers some of the finest fishing in the country, so don’t dismiss it too quickly.) Additionally, winter in the Catskills brings its own charm, with cozy evenings by the fire and days spent at nearby ski resorts like Hunter Mountain, or Plattekill Mountain and Belleayre Mountain further out in Delaware County.

How long should I stay in the Catskills?

To fully immerse yourself in everything the Catskills have to offer, plan to spend four days to a week for plenty of sightseeing and relaxation in the refreshing mountain air. However, weekend visitors traveling by bus or train from New York City are vital to Catskills tourism, and you can certainly experience the essence of the Catskills in just a brief visit.

If you have just two days, focus on one of the easily accessible core towns like the artistic Kingston, the bohemian Woodstock, or the refined Livingston Manor. In these delightful towns, you can explore fantastic shopping, enjoy meals at hidden culinary gems, and partake in outdoor activities such as hiking, swimming, fishing, mountain biking, or even horseback riding. For a luxurious yet inviting experience, stay at Callicoon Hills and enjoy a drink (or three) at the nearby Catskill Provisions Distillery and Tasting Room.

Food enthusiasts, on the other hand, may want to extend their stay to travel around the region and discover world-class cuisine in surprising locations; don’t miss Woodstock’s Silvia for an unforgettable dinner experience in the Catskills.

If you have an entire week, consider renting a car to venture beyond the popular spots into the lesser-known Great Western Catskills, which feature a variety of dining options. Enjoy a meal on the terrace at Binnekill Tavern in Margaretville, overlooking the Binnekill stream with stunning mountain views; the restaurant has received accolades under the expertise of renowned chef Bryan Calvert. Afterward, explore one of the many local museums (the Hanford Mills Museum offers mill tours of its working sawmill, gristmill, and woodworking factory) and catch a show at the historic 1914 Walton Theatre.

Is getting around the Catskills straightforward?

Yes and no. There are several convenient bus services (such as Megabus, Greyhound, and Trailways) and a couple of train routes that can take you from New York City to the Catskills. However, once you arrive, unless you plan to stay in areas within walking distance of an urban hotel, a car is generally necessary for getting around.

Driving is by far the easiest way to explore the diverse attractions of the Catskills. If you’re taking a road trip or renting a car, navigating between towns will be much simpler than relying on public transportation, which primarily means the classic Trailways bus. That said, taking the bus is definitely possible, but it can be an adventure! You’ll need to carefully plan your routes on the Trailways website and be prepared for bus transfers – sometimes multiple ones. You can find more details about reaching the more remote towns in the Western Catskills by bus here.

If you plan to fly to the Catskills, the Albany airport is your best option, located about a 45-minute drive from the town of Catskill, a good central hub for the region. For those heading to the Western Catskills, Binghamton is a manageable airport, though it's a bit farther away: approximately an hour and 45 minutes from Margaretville, which itself is about an hour from Kingston. For destinations like Kingston, Woodstock, Catskill, or Livingston Manor, consider flights to Stewart Airport in Newburgh, roughly an hour's drive from all three.

In summary: choose your airport based on flight availability from your local airport and your intended location within the Catskills during your visit.

Must-do activities in the Catskills

Even if you’re only visiting for a weekend, make sure to hit the trails. This is essential regardless of the season (though in winter, a snowshoe trek through the woods works just as well). The breathtaking scenery of the Catskills is truly unmissable. Nestled among mountain views, there's no better place to enjoy the outdoors, offering something for everyone—whether you're tackling the longest hike in the region or simply setting up a tent to relax.

Did you know that the Catskills are the birthplace of fly fishing in America? Be sure to visit Rose Hill Farm for U-pick berries, cherries, plums, peaches, and apples. Alternatively, book a guided tour with Catskill Fungi for a memorable (non-psychedelic, sorry) mushroom walk.

The Catskills are just as rich in culture as they are in nature. A prime example of this blend is Ravenwood NY in Kerhonkson, Ulster County. Visit for the art, barn gatherings, or simply to enjoy a great coffee by the backyard fire on a chilly day. Their pastries are divine, and if you’re looking for a souvenir from your Catskills adventure, their shop items are exceptional. Plus, it’s conveniently located next to Catskill Native Nursery, known for its knowledgeable staff and local native plants.

For evening fun, head to Woodstock to check out Levon Helm Studios. It’s a BYO venue, perfect for casual tailgating in a woodsy parking lot before settling into folding chairs to enjoy top-notch musical acts in a unique setting. Your ideal leisurely day in the Catskills is all set.

Traveling further west, Delaware County boasts unspoiled beauty and hidden gems, along with a more relaxed vibe and fewer crowds. Summers here are filled with fantastic festivals: I love the family-friendly Catskill Mountain Yoga Festival in Roxbury, and anyone who doesn’t appreciate the Deposit Lumberjack Festival might not have a pulse. This quirky, plaid-filled event has drawn visitors for 48 years with fun activities like lumberjack competitions, raft races, tractor pulls, and a lumberjack parade, embodying a spirit only the Catskills can provide.

My top favorite activity in the Catskills

Beyond the Lumberjack Festival, my all-time favorite trip to the Catskills (and as a lifelong New Yorker, I’ve had many!) was wonderfully simple yet perfect. I took a bus from NYC’s Port Authority for under $50, traveling just 2.5 hours to Phoenicia, where I stayed at The Graham & Co, a stylishly renovated motel with no cell service. I fueled up on pancakes at the Phoenicia Diner and hiked around; I recommend the Wittenberg and Cornell Mountains Trail and the Mount Tremper Trail, which leads to one of the five fire towers in the Catskills offering stunning 360-degree views over the forest. If it’s a hot day, consider tubing down the Esopus Creek (just a heads-up: it has rapids!) or lounging by the pool at the Graham. Afterward, enjoy pizza at Brio’s and catch a performance at the Phoenicia Playhouse; I saw a rendition of Dracula there that was absolutely delightful. When surrounded by the Catskills’ stunning beauty and unique charm, sometimes the simplest trips are the ones that resonate in your heart for years.

How much should I budget for a trip to the Catskills?

Generally speaking, the further you venture from NYC in the Catskills, the more value you’ll find. While options may be limited in the more remote areas, every part of the Catskills offers a fantastic variety of accommodations and price ranges, from the super-basic (we appreciate a Best Western in a pinch!) to the truly spectacular and luxurious (just think: Inness). The most popular hotels in the region typically start at around $200 per night (or more during peak summer). No matter where you choose to stay in the Catskills, prices can vary widely based on location, amenities, and the time of year.

Here’s a rundown of the average daily expenses you might encounter in the Catskills:

• standard room for two: $80-$120 (off season), $108-$230 (peak season)

• one-bedroom self-catering apartment: $100-500

• public transport fare: $20 for a Trailways ticket between towns

• coffee: $1 from a gas station to $6 for a specialty mocha

• sandwich: $4-14 (Subway vs. Phoenicia Diner)

• dinner for two: $40-$60 (casual), $200 (fine dining with drinks)

• pint: $8

• ski or snowboard rental, including boots and poles: $50

Watch out for bears!

The Catskills' forests are home to not only stunning but also potentially hazardous black bears, along with coyotes and the rare mountain lion. If you encounter any of these creatures while hiking, it's crucial not to approach them or run away. Instead, try to appear larger and more intimidating by extending your arms. For more advice on wildlife safety in the Catskills, click here.

Make sure to check the weather and trail conditions ahead of time

Staying safe while hiking or skiing is paramount—make sure to team up with a buddy! Before heading to Hunter or any Catskills mountain, check the resort’s website for current trail conditions to ensure they’re snowy yet safe. If you’re hiking in spring, take it slow, go with a friend, and bring trekking poles—refer to the 'mud season' tips above.

Practice good forest etiquette: Carry out what you bring in

Whether you're hiking or enjoying one of the Catskills' many lakes, swimming holes, and waterfalls, make sure to take back everything you brought. This includes trash (yes, even biodegradable items like banana peels, which can attract unwanted wildlife) and any dog waste if you have your furry friend with you.

Bring plenty of layers and some rain gear

In the Catskills—much like in Scotland and other hilly regions around the world—the adage is, “if you don’t like the weather, just wait a minute.” Don’t find yourself unprepared for a sudden rain shower or a rapid temperature change during your hike.