A Complete Escape: a three-day high/low adventure in Essaouira, Morocco

In our A Total Trip series, writers share their spending details from recent getaways. In this edition, Sally Kirby illustrates how she balanced budget-friendly choices in Essaouira, Morocco, with a few luxurious treats.

I’m a writer and yoga instructor living in Taghazout, Morocco. While I cherish the rhythm of my simple life in this surfing hub, I recently felt the urge for a road-trip adventure and a taste of city life.

Accompanied by a friend visiting from the UK, I drove up the coast to Essaouira, eager to share some of my favorite local experiences and discover new ones together.

We chose a budget-friendly hotel in the city center, as we were most excited to invest our money in boutiques, spas, and exploring the diverse restaurant scene.

Pre-trip expenses

Accommodation: $88 for two nights at Mama Souiri. This budget-friendly hotel by the beach is praised for its prime location overlooking Moulay Hassan Square, making it easy to walk to most attractions. Breakfast is enjoyed on the sunny rooftop terrace. It's important to note that live music from the nearby Taros café can make sleeping...a bit tricky.

City taxes: $0.40 per person per day

Total: US$90 (or $45 each) equivalent to 877 MAD (Moroccan dirhams)

On the ground

Sunday

Breakfast: We began our journey to Essaouira from Taghazout at 10am. The three-hour drive was powered by snacks from a patisserie ($1 for two pains au chocolat) and coffees from a mobile cafe in the back of the van ($1.40 for two).

Arrival: We parked our car in the port lot of Essaouira since our hotel lacked parking facilities. It cost $6.15 per day, but we later discovered it could be cheaper (as low as $2 per day), depending on the parking attendant and our negotiation skills.

Lunch: With some time to spare before our 2pm check-in, we dropped off our bags at the hotel and headed to Loft, a quaint restaurant offering fresh Mediterranean-style dishes. We enjoyed a plate of succulent king prawns in saffron sauce, accompanied by vibrant salads. With complimentary fresh watermelon, our total bill—covering water, orange juice, and two main dishes—came to $35 for both of us.

Activities: After checking into the hotel, we prepared for our hammam appointment at the nearby Azur Spa, where we chose the “Tradition” scrub (a 35-minute exfoliation with black soap) for $20 each.

With our skin glowing, we strolled down Avenue de l’Istiqlal towards the Spice and Fish Souks, observing locals as they selected fresh produce from vibrant stalls. The lively sounds, enticing scents, and vivid colors invigorated our senses and helped us find our way.

On our way back to the hotel, we paused to buy mineral water from a local shop ($.75 for two liters).

Drinks: Refreshed and ready for a night out, we arrived at the bustling Taros rooftop bar just in time to watch the sunset over the Atlantic. We celebrated the day with cocktails (a zesty Margarita for $9.25 and a San Miguel beer for $4.60) while enjoying the live Afrobeat music.

Dinner: We had a reservation at the nearby Umia, a chic tapas bar that sources many ingredients directly from local markets. We shared the octopus carpaccio ($12.30) and pancakes topped with smoked trout ($14.25) from their seasonal menu, paired with a delightful glass of Beauvallon wine from Morocco’s Meknes region ($7 per glass).

Total: $161 (or $80.50 per person)

Monday

Breakfast: Just across from our hotel, Patisserie Driss, established in 1928, features walls adorned with art, patio seating, and a variety of homemade pastries. We stopped by for coffee ($1), orange juice ($1.25), and pastries ($.50 each), enjoying the nostalgic atmosphere of one of the city's oldest cafes.

Activities: We strolled through the Medina, exploring shops along the streets and popping into art galleries before concluding our morning with a walk along the city’s ramparts, Skala de la Ville, where we enjoyed a sweeping view of the Atlantic.

Lunch: Relishing the ocean breeze, we made our way to the nearby fishing port to see the daily catch at the stalls. We chose fresh sea bream, grilled squid, and king prawns for $10.25 each, which included salad, fries, and a soft drink. The meal was prepared right in front of us, accompanied by the sights of seagulls above and well-fed cats dozing nearby.

In the afternoon, we explored concept stores, admiring the vibrant displays of emerging local designers at Histoire des Filles and Koulchi. With minimal wind, it was the ideal time for a stroll on the beach, a dip in the sea, and a nap on the sand. Our only expense was a two-liter bottle of mineral water ($.75).

Snacks: After dropping off our swim gear at the hotel, we headed to Dolcefreddo, an open-air café in the main square. This lovely space fills with buskers and street performers every afternoon, making it ideal for people-watching. We indulged in crêpes stuffed with Nutella and amlou, a nut butter made with argan oil ($2.50 each), along with orange juice ($1.50) and Moroccan mint tea ($1.50).

Dinner: That evening, we wandered through the Medina’s alleys in search of an authentic dining experience and discovered the simple yet delicious Moroccan offerings at Cafe Berbere. We sampled several dishes to share: a Moroccan salad ($1.50), tasty puff pastries called briwates ($3.60), vegetable couscous ($6), and seffa, a cinnamon-and-almond pasta dish ($6), plus water ($1.50).

Total: $75 (or $37.50 each)

Tuesday

Breakfast: Still satisfied from the previous evening's meal, we strolled to Mandala Society, a plant-based and mostly organic café. I chose a smoothie ($4.60), while my friend opted for a chia pudding breakfast bowl ($7.70). This barista-style café, inspired by Icelandic roots, provides a Scandinavian taste in Morocco.

Activities: In the afternoon, we drove to the countryside for a pool day at Jardins de la Villa Maroc, an 18th-century riad transformed into a boutique hotel. This was our splurge; after selecting a simple hotel in Essaouira’s Medina for convenience, we wanted to conclude our trip in a more serene and relaxed environment. A day pass to the hotel includes shuttle service to and from Essaouira’s center, a Mediterranean BBQ lunch, and access to the heated pool. The outing cost $32.80 per person, excluding drinks (we ordered a cappuccino for $2.50, orange juice for $3, and a two-liter bottle of sparkling water for $3).

After this, it was a three-hour drive back home; we returned feeling enriched by all the experiences in Essaouira.

Total: $92.25 (my portion was $44.60)

Final expenses (for one): pre-trip costs ($45) + on-site expenses ($162.60) = US $207.60 or 2032 MAD (Moroccan dirham)

Extras

Essaouira is an excellent destination for affordable original art, so I picked up linocut prints ($5 each) from Salam Atelier. My friend found handmade linen trousers ($22.50) from Mohammed, located across from Pumpkin on Avenue de l’Istiqlal; he tailors items right on the spot.

Cost vs. value

Essaouira caters to every budget, and we enjoyed a well-rounded experience. We took pleasure in free activities like wandering through the Medina and relaxing on the beach, along with the simple joy of people-watching, snacking on street food, and indulging in open-kitchen Moroccan dining. It was also delightful to mix in some splurges, such as dressing up for cocktails, enjoying a pool day, and dining at stylish restaurants.

Notes

Visiting Essaouira on a tight budget is definitely achievable. For those flying into Essaouira Airport, the transfer to the city center costs $27. Additionally, car rentals start at $36 per day.