A Complete Expense Report: My Journey in Tartu, Estonia - one of the European Capitals of Culture 2024

In our A Total Trip series, writers share their spending experiences from recent getaways. In this edition, Daniel James Clarke reveals how far his budget stretched during a long weekend in Tartu, Estonia.

I’m a travel writer residing in the Algarve, Portugal. Last year, eager to explore more of the Baltic and Nordic regions, my best friend and I set off on an overland adventure from Spain to Scandinavia, aiming to reach the Arctic Circle by train.

Initially, we had overlooked Estonia’s second city, but on our journey, we discovered that Tartu and southeast Estonia would be one of the European Capitals of Culture in 2024. So we decided to take a detour and spend a weekend exploring the city's cultural offerings.

Having traveled through Lithuania and Latvia a month prior, I anticipated Estonia to be pricier. However, Tartu proved to be unexpectedly budget-friendly. Here's a breakdown of our expenses.

Pre-trip Expenses

Accommodation: €94.50 for three nights in a private twin room (shared bathroom) at the clean and modern Downtown Hostel.

Bus fare: €7 from Valga, located on the Estonia-Latvia border.

Total: €54.25 per person

Daily Expenses

Thursday

Afternoon: After dropping off our backpacks, we strolled towards the old town. The brief walk took us through Ülejõe Park, adorned with sculptures of notable Estonian figures, and across the Emajõgi River to Town Hall Square. This central hub of Estonia's oldest city is bordered by elegant classical buildings, with decorations celebrating #Tartu2024 everywhere.

I had been looking forward to seeing the Kissing Students fountain, a romantic emblem of Tartu, located in front of the Town Hall. Unfortunately, it was under renovation in anticipation of a “mass kissing event”—one of the more unique activities planned for 2024.

Dinner: Feeling hungry, we strolled through Pirogov Park to Püssirohukelder, an 18th-century gunpowder cellar. This expansive venue has been transformed into a lively pub and music spot. We enjoyed Baltic Sea blue mussels and mulgipuder, a hearty Estonian porridge made with potatoes and smoked meat served in a bread loaf. Accompanied by an IPA and a Limonaad Traditsiooniline (a traditional Estonian sparkling drink), the total came to €14.25 each.

Total: €14.25

Friday

Breakfast: Enticed by the warm, candle-lit ambiance of Crepp, we settled into cozy window seats to watch the world go by. Our order featured local delights: one galette filled with smoked salmon and a crêpe brimming with foraged bilberries, bursting with sweetness. Energized by a French Press coffee and a cappuccino, our bill totaled €14 each.

Morning sightseeing: We strolled through the old town toward the columned façade of Tartu University, Estonia’s oldest institution, established in 1632. We briefly visited St. John’s Church (free), skipping the tower to save €3. Next, we explored a 17th-century bastion in the Botanical Gardens (free), followed by a €3 coffee at Käkk&Mülä, a bakery-bar featuring art-covered brick and vibrant, comfy seating. Afterward, we admired the wooden houses of the Supilinn neighborhood before wandering back along the river.

Feeling no hunger, we bypassed lunch. Instead, I sampled a honey-infused mead-style beer (€4.80) brewed at nearby A Le Coq. It was a touch sweet for my taste, so I passed on a second and we continued to Raamatukauplus Krisostomus, where we browsed through stacks of books.

Afternoon museum visit: With rain falling in the afternoon, we sought refuge in the University of Tartu Museum (€10), housed in the renovated remains of a Gothic cathedral. We spent hours delving into the city's intellectual legacy and notable figures, including Nobel Prize-winning chemist Wilhelm Ostwald and the current Estonian prime minister, Kaja Kallas. After daydreaming in the grand library, we ventured outside to climb the cathedral’s tower (included). The views over the partially roofless nave were well worth the ascent.

Evening concert: I attempted to secure tickets for the Vanemuine Symphony Orchestra ahead of time, but our visit coincided with the opening of the 154th concert season, making seats limited. Fortunately, we managed to grab last-minute discounted returns for €22 each at the box office. The acoustics in the intimate Vanemuine – Estonia’s oldest theater – were superb. There was complimentary champagne, though I suspect this was a special treat for the opening season rather than the usual offering.

Dinner: After the show, we enjoyed a meal at Vilde Ja Vine, a cozy spot adorned with retro light fixtures and vintage chairs. We had fallen in love with the Baltic Sea's smaller, sweeter mollusks, so we indulged in two portions of aromatic mussels, a hearty burger, crispy Baltic herring, and a liter of wine, all for €30.50 each.

Total: €84.30

Saturday

Breakfast: We visited Pihlaka, a popular Estonian chain famed for its traditional cakes. With so many delightful options, I let the baker decide for us. We enjoyed a piece of soft, sticky meekook (honey cake) and a slice of ploomikook (plum cake), paired with a cappuccino and an espresso, all for €2.98 each.

Museum and lunch: We hopped on a bus (€1.50) to the Estonian National Museum. Initially, the €14 entrance fee felt steep, but I quickly realized it was worth it for a full-day adventure. This is Estonia’s largest museum and one of the most impressive I’ve encountered, featuring innovative technology. The tickets function like magic wands, translating displays and videos with a simple swipe, and saving favorite facts to a personal URL for later viewing.

From key historical events like The Baltic Chain—where two million people joined hands to create a 430-mile chain across Estonia, Latvia, and Lithuania for independence from the USSR—to the launch of e-Residency, each exhibit offered intriguing insights into Estonia. The museum also showcased personal items, like protest knitwear and homemade vacuum cleaners, with interactive displays that kept the extensive collection lively and engaging.

We chose to have lunch at the museum’s café, where the daily specials (roast pork with potatoes or a vegetarian option) were just €8. Afterward, we continued to explore traditional outfits and watched video stories narrated by Tartu locals. By the time we took the bus back (€1.50), my afternoon plan to visit the Tartu Art Museum had faded with the daylight, saving me €7.

Dinner and drinks: Before dinner, we stopped at the cellar-like Pühaste Kelder, a local brewery pub. Unsure what to choose, we settled on the four-glass beer flight (€4 each), featuring a guava Gose, an IPA, a rich stout, and my favorite, a raspberry-infused wild ale. Back in the main square, we were drawn into Pubi RP9 by the lively crowd. Two beers, fried dumplings, and two charcoal-grilled pork tenderloins cost us €22.90 each—the bartender’s humor was a welcome bonus for tipping.

Total: €54.88

Sunday

Breakfast: Before heading to Tallinn, we stopped for breakfast at Reval Cafe, conveniently located near the bus station. We ordered two plates of scrambled eggs with smoked salmon and bacon, accompanied by coffee and a fresh juice, which came to €13.35 each. We capped off our time in Tartu with a free photography exhibit outside.

Total: €13.35

Final amount: €221.03 each

Daily expenses (€166.78 each) + accommodation (€47.25 each) + bus fare (€7 each).

In general, Tartu offers great affordability. The food provides excellent value for its quality, though drinks can add up. If hostels aren’t your style, hotels can also be budget-friendly. Before a last-minute change, we had reserved a room at Barclay Hotel for €145 for three nights. With a variety of free and low-cost activities planned for the Tartu 2024 cultural program, expect even more value from your visit this year.