A Culinary Journey Through 24 Perfect Hours in Paris
This gastronomic adventure in Paris isn’t about racing through a checklist of ‘must-see’ landmarks. Instead, after nearly 40 years in the city, I've curated a perfect day and night filled with eating and drinking experiences. This guide showcases delightful spots that embody the city’s renowned culinary scene. Consider it more of a culinary carousel to enjoy at your leisure based on your hunger and energy levels.
1:30 a.m. Late-night indulgence at Au Pied de Cochon
Established in 1947 to cater to the workers of Les Halles, this nearly round-the-clock brasserie offers a lively ambiance. Its eclectic crowd provides some of the best people-watching in Paris, making it the ideal place for a midnight feast to shake off jet lag. Start with onion soup, freshly shucked oysters, and steak tartare, or go all out with the Tentation de Saint-Antoine, featuring a selection of charcuterie like a pig’s foot and more, all drenched in bearnaise sauce. Open daily from 8 a.m. to 5 a.m. 6 Rue Coquillière, 1st arrondissement
7 a.m. Breakfast treat from Du Pain et Des Idées
Grab a croissant that crumbles into golden flakes as you open it, or try an escargot aux pralines roses (a twisted brioche pastry adorned with crunchy melted almonds in a pink sugar shell) to enjoy while strolling along the picturesque Canal Saint-Martin. Don’t forget to pick up a baguette too, as they’re irresistibly good—and you might find yourself tempted to buy some pâté, charcuterie, or cheese later on. (Always carry a knife and corkscrew in Paris; you never know when you’ll need them.)34 Rue Yves Toudic, 10th arrondissement
Customers enjoying the ambiance outside Holybelly.
Nico Alary/HolybellyLa Patisserie
French pastries alone are a great reason to book a flight to Paris. Drop by any of the city's top patisseries whenever the craving strikes:
Christophe Michalak
A pastry superstar known for his playful take on the intricate side of French desserts, Michalak has boutiques throughout Paris. His religieuse, a choux pastry featuring an adorable collar of salted-butter caramel, has won over many fans.
Des Gâteaux et du Pain
After honing her craft at Fauchon, Ladurée, Le Bristol, and the Plaza Athénée, pâtissière Claire Damon has garnered a devoted following. Her top sellers include Le Kashmir (a delightful pastry filled with oranges, dates, vanilla, and saffron) and a blackcurrant Mont Blanc.
Pain de Sucre
Pâtissiers Nathalie Robert and Didier Mathray excel at making subtle yet impactful adjustments to classic treats, but their original creations are also a must-try. Be sure to sample Le Rosemary, a tart featuring rhubarb, raspberry, and rosemary.
Tapisserie
The two cozy Tapisseries on either bank, operated by the team behind Septime, offer a daily selection of unique items, such as a mezcal-infused baba (sponge cake) with blood orange and piment d’Espelette.
9 a.m. Breakfast or culinary workshop
Holybelly
French duo Nico Alary and Sarah Mouchot spent time in Melbourne before returning to Paris to launch this immensely popular all-day breakfast spot by Canal Saint-Martin in the 10th arrondissement. Their menu offers a French twist on Australian, English, and American breakfast classics, featuring pancakes and egg dishes with à la carte sides like mushrooms, sausage, hash browns, bacon, and baked beans. The superb coffee comes from Belleville Brûlerie, a roaster that has sparked a wave of specialty cafés that replaced the previously dominant bitter brews in Paris. 5 Rue Lucien Sampaix, 10th arrondissement
La Cuisine
If you’re still energized by your snack from Du Pain et des Idées, consider taking a cooking class at the renowned La Cuisine school overlooking the Seine in the Marais, where you can learn to make croissants and other French breakfast pastries. Mastering croissant-making could be the perfect souvenir from Paris. 80 Quai de l’Hôtel de Ville, 4th arrondissement
10:30 a.m. Sandwich at La Fontaine de Belleville
For the French, the baguette jambon-beurre is the nostalgic equivalent of America’s cheeseburger. The version served at this café, featuring Prince de Paris ham and butter from the renowned cheese shop Beillevaire, is the finest in the city. 31–33 Rue Juliette Dodu, 10th arrondissement
Breizh Café galette.
Meghan McCarron/Dinogo11:30 a.m. A must-have crepe at Breizh Café
Feeling a bit hungry? Visit this renowned Breton creperie in the Marais and enjoy a buckwheat galette topped with smoked salmon, salmon roe, and crème fraîche. 109 Rue Vieille du Temple, 3rd arrondissement
Culinary Tours and Tastings
Not ready to conquer all of French cuisine alone? Join one of these fantastic food tours and tastings in the city:
Jennifer Greco
Originally from New Orleans, American expat Jennifer Greco began a project in 2007 to sample every cheese produced in France. She’s currently tasted 400 out of approximately 1,500. Join her on a tour of Paris’s cheese shops or a tasting workshop.
Original Food Tours
This immersive experience of French pastry and chocolate includes visits to some of the most famous pastry and chocolate shops in Paris.
Ô Chateau
Wine enthusiasts may want to participate in the thoughtfully curated wine tasting at Ô Chateau. A premium tasting is also available for 169 euros per person, along with wine and cheese lunches.
1 p.m. Dining at Le Clarence
The early afternoon is perfect for indulging in a lavish meal at one of the fine dining establishments still worthy of the splurge. Chef Christophe Pelé has garnered two Michelin stars for this refined 19th-century townhouse near the Champs-Élysées, owned by Prince Robert of Luxembourg, who also owns Château Haut-Brion in Bordeaux. The tasting menus highlight Pelé’s clever, avant-garde, and deeply satisfying 21st-century French haute cuisine, featuring dishes like langoustine ceviche with elderflowers and black sesame in radish bouillon with rhubarb juice, elvers with lamb brains, grilled red mullet with beef marrow and ginger, and rice pudding with sorrel and apple. 31 Avenue Franklin Delano Roosevelt, 8th arrondissement
4 p.m. Ice Cream at Pozzetto
The Sicilian pistachio is a standout at this ice cream shop with two locations. The Bronte nuts offer a remarkable depth of flavor that balances sweetness and umami. The chocolate-hazelnut flavor has also been known to evoke sheer delight. 39 Rue du Roi de Sicile, 4th arrondissement
5:30 p.m. Aperitif at L’Avant Comptoir de la Mer
Time for a glass of wine and a bite to eat—head over to chef Yves Camdeborde’s seafood-inspired small-plates venue. This bustling spot, perfect for mingling, is ideal for enjoying roasted razor-shell clams while soaking up the modern atmosphere of Saint-Germain-des-Près, which has moved beyond its outdated bohemian image. 3 Carrefour de l’Odéon, 6th arrondissement
7:30 p.m. Enjoy oysters at Huîtrerie Régis
France is home to the finest oysters globally, and many find their way to this cozy bar in Saint-Germain-des-Près. The minimum order is a dozen per person—are you up for the challenge? Start with the Fines de Claire moyennes (medium-sized) from the Marennes-Oléron oyster beds in the Charente region of France. 3 Rue de Montfaucon, 6th arrondissement
Manon Fleury and her team at Datil.
Pauline Gouablin/DatilLe Chocolat
Paris is renowned as a chocolate capital. Here are four must-visit shops:
Le Chocolat Alain Ducasse
The premier bean-to-bar atelier in Paris, founded by pastry chef Nicolas Berger and Alain Ducasse, features vintage chocolate-making equipment sourced from across Europe to create extraordinary delights.
Jacques Genin
This exceptional chocolate and pastry shop in the Marais is where Mick Jagger gets his favorite mint-filled chocolates.
Patrick Roger
With striking chocolate sculptures adorning his boutique’s windows, Roger entices many passersby. The treats inside are just as delicious as they are visually appealing.
Les Trois Chocolats
Chocolatière Emiko Sano, previously at the Plaza Athénée Hotel, opened her own shop in the Marais, showcasing stunning creations that often feature flavors from her native Japan, like miso, yuzu, and smoked cherry.
9:30 p.m. Dinner at a trendy restaurant
When Parisian restaurants appear in Hollywood films, they often showcase traditional bistro dishes like boeuf bourguignon or blanquette de veau on classic checkered tablecloths. While these dishes are undeniably delicious, especially at spots like Josephine Chez Dumonet, Le Quincy, or Le Bistrot des Tournelles, for dinner, explore the modern Mytouries redefining Paris as one of Europe's most exciting culinary cities:
Vaisseau
If you're feeling adventurous, secure a table at Vaisseau, where the dark, minimalist ambiance serves as a fitting backdrop for young chef Adrien Cachot’s tasting menus, crafted to challenge your palate with imaginative dishes. You might encounter mochi 'cachot e pepe' styled like risotto with pepper and citrus; sweet potato paired with lentils cooked with anise and sea crab; or veal served three ways. Not suited for the faint-hearted or picky Mytours.35 Rue Faidherbe, 11th arrondissement
Datil
In her bright, almost entirely white Mytoury in the upper Marais, chef Manon Fleury showcases vegetables, fruits, pulses, and grains. The flavors are delicate and the techniques impeccable. The menus change frequently to reflect seasonal ingredients and the chef’s imaginative culinary flair. Standout dishes have featured raw shrimp complemented by a cream of fermented rice, peaches, and shiso. 13 Rue des Gravilliers, 3rd arrondissement
Géosmine
Géosmine is chef Maxime Bouttier’s debut restaurant, set in a spacious white duplex within a former textile factory in the 11th arrondissement. At Géosmine (meaning 'odor of the soil,' reminiscent of freshly tilled earth), Bouttier serves dishes like artichokes barigoule (braised in white wine and herbs) wrapped in delicate lardo di Colonnata, or green asparagus lavishly coated in pistachio cream and chickweed. Be sure to try the freshly baked cake featuring chocolate, vanilla, praline, and fleur de sel.71 Rue De La Folie Méricourt, 11th arrondissement
12 a.m. Late-night bites at Cravan
Housed in a historic 17th-century structure, this multilevel venue designed by Franck Audoux has rejuvenated the nightlife scene in the once touristy Saint-Germain-des-Près. This bustling cocktail bar is the largest in Paris, attracting patrons eager to sample from an extensive cocktail menu, which includes the unique Royal Immortelle—Champagne infused with an extract from the curry-flavored wild plant. Guests can enjoy mushroom tempura with black-garlic dipping sauce and grilled baby leeks in mousseline. Open until 1 a.m. on weekdays and 2 a.m. on weekends. Reservations are advisable through the website.165 Boulevard Saint-Germain, 6th arrondissement
Alexander Lobrano is an expert on Parisian dining and the author of Hungry for Paris, Hungry for France, as well as his culinary memoir My Place at the Table. He blogs about dining experiences and frequently contributes to the New York Times, the Wall Street Journal, Saveur, and other notable publications.
Evaluation :
5/5