A Dinogo Exploration of Garfagnana, Italy

While millions flock to Tuscany’s iconic sites like Chianti Classico and the art-laden streets of Siena and Florence, a two-hour drive northwest leads you to the serene, verdant mountains and river-laden valleys of Garfagnana. This hidden corner of Tuscany offers a refreshing break from the crowded tourist traps, providing opportunities for adventure sports, a charming countryside lifestyle untouched by mass tourism, and hearty mountain cuisine.

Renowned for its thrilling river rafting and hiking trails, Garfagnana also surprises food enthusiasts with its culinary delights. Adventurous gourmands wander between picturesque hilltop villages, tasting local fare. Artisans forage for ingredients like farro and chestnuts, while sheep graze on aromatic wild herbs. Independent winemakers innovate outside of the constraints imposed by traditional consortiums. Garfagnana remains connected to culture, drawing influences from nearby Lucca, a city celebrated for Puccini, scenic piazzas, and vibrant festivals.

Garfagnana perfectly blends secluded tranquility with accessibility, making it an ideal destination for those seeking to explore the lesser-known side of Tuscany.

What defines Garfagnana cuisine?

Meals in Garfagnana feature a bounty of foraged ingredients, wild boar, rich slow-cooked stews, ancient farro grains, and robust cheeses crafted from mountain goats and sheep. Notable varieties like heritage formenton otto file (orange-red corn) and local legumes take center stage. The best dining experiences can be found at agriturismi (farm stays), where weary hikers savor dishes such as chestnut honey drizzled over local cheeses, antipasti boards laden with biroldo (spiced head cheese), and freshly made farro bread and pasta.

Lucca, the culinary heart of the microregion, boasts several Michelin-starred restaurants and esteemed cheese makers, as well as a rich culinary heritage. This city, adorned with preserved medieval walls and dedicated to Puccini, has its roots in the silk trade of the 12th century, which cultivated wealth and refined cuisine. Here, peasant mountain fare meets sophisticated dining, giving rise to dishes like tordelli Lucchesi—ravioli stuffed with meat, enhanced by wild thyme and sage, and simmered in ragu.

Garfagnana offers a vibrant drinking scene too. While once overshadowed by the renowned wine regions of Chianti Classico, Montalcino, and Montepulciano, Garfagnana has transformed since the ’90s. Innovative vintners like Gabriele Da Prato at Podere Còncori have shifted from producing simple bulk wines to celebrating the region's distinct terroir. Nestled between the Apuan Alps and the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines, the area’s cool, foggy microclimate and mineral-rich soils are ideal for cultivating syrah and pinot noir that rival the great wines of the Rhone Valley and Burgundy. Many wineries have also embraced indigenous grape varieties, producing vibrant, effervescent, and high-acid wines.

Essential information before your visit

Lima, Higher Garfagnana, and Serchio: These three valleys delineate Garfagnana’s distinct historical and geographical area within the Lucca province. The Lima Valley is renowned for thrilling river rafting and hiking through ancient towns. In Higher Garfagnana, traditional sheep graze on wild herbs, while local artisans craft richly flavored cheeses from their milk. The Serchio Valley features the walled village of Barga, known for its annual opera festival and the legendary Ponte del Diavolo, a bridge with a dramatic arch said to have been built through a pact with the devil.

Agriturismi: Many travelers choose to spend their evenings at agriturismi, charming farms typically situated near hiking trails to help guests work up an appetite. After a day filled with wine tastings and soaking in hot springs, few experiences compare to enjoying rustic delicacies at an agriturismo. (Note: Accessing these farm stays usually requires a car. If driving isn’t feasible, consider staying in Lucca and coordinating with your hotel concierge for excursions.)

Seasons: Garfagnana is a refreshing retreat from the bustling summer crowds of Tuscany’s renowned cities, but the spring and fall truly shine, offering perfect hiking conditions. Spring ushers in fresh pecorino cheeses, river trout, and dishes enhanced by wild herbs, while fall is a treasure trove for foraging enthusiasts, yielding earthy porcinis and rich chestnuts. Autumn is particularly indulgent, filled with wine harvest festivities, wild honey, necci (chestnut-flour crepes) stuffed with mountain ricotta, polenta topped with gooey local cheeses, ancient grain soups, and pasta dressed with robust wild game sauces.

Dining options in the countryside

Al Teatro (Castelnuovo di Garfagnana)

Led by two passionate chefs, Alessandro Pineschi and Luca Triti, Al Teatro showcases locally sourced ingredients in both traditional à la carte dishes and contemporary tasting menus. Expect to find unique elements like wild garlic, straw syrup, elderberry capers, and mountain ricotta in their offerings.

Osteria Vecchio Mulino (Castelnuovo di Garfagnana)

This charming osteria specializes in hearty savory pies, tagliere boards featuring exquisite cured meats, and artisanal cheeses. Guests can also enjoy specialty breads made from farro and potatoes, complemented by a thoughtfully curated wine list.

Ristorante Eliseo (Gallicano)

This quaint bed-and-breakfast houses a century-old restaurant adorned with wood paneling and luxurious cabin decor. The kitchen delights guests with fresh pasta tossed with local porcini, truffles, and wild boar, alongside various grilled dishes infused with aromatic juniper and timeless favorites like fried veal cutlets.

Mulin del Rancone (Camporgiano)

This farmstay in Camporgiano offers a refined take on Garfagnanian cuisine. Guests can savor dishes like river trout crepes, pestos crafted from local wild herbs, chestnut-infused pastas, grilled porcini mushrooms, and decadent polenta flan.

Il Grillo (Giuncugnano)

Operating as an organic farm, this restaurant showcases seasonal vegetables from its fields in dishes such as farro soups with winter chicories, piadine (flatbreads) stuffed with chestnut flour, and tortino (root vegetable pie), all accompanied by local wines and craft beers.

Where to dine in Lucca

Il Giglio

Since earning a Michelin star in 2019, Il Giglio has been delighting diners with tasting menus that blend traditional peasant dishes like snails, offal, and pigeon with luxurious touches such as sea urchin spaghetti.

Da Giulio in Pelleria

This historic Mytoury serves as the Italian equivalent of a greasy spoon, specializing in Luccan cuisine and Tuscan classics, including stuffed pastas with ragu, zuppa contadina (grain and vegetable soups), chestnut cakes infused with pine nuts and rosemary, and refreshing panzanella.

La Griglia di Varrone

With its vintage charm, La Griglia di Varrone is a steakhouse and cocktail bar perfect for meat lovers. The menu features a variety of cuts, highlighting breeds from around the world, including Angus and pata negra.

Fattoria Sardi

Nestled in the hills overlooking Lucca, just a short drive from the city, this biodynamic winery and agriturismo boasts one of the area's standout restaurants. Chef Damiano Donati enhances comfort dishes like braised beef paired with their own wines, while also roasting organic potatoes cultivated on the premises.

Aged sirloin infused with local dried porcini at Pizzicheria La Grotta. Pecorino made from tomato rinds maturing at Caseificio Bertagni. Traditional Garfagnini antipasti served at Podere il Concori.

Where to drink

Podere Còncori

Podere Còncori resembles a national park more than a biodynamic winery. Gabriele Da Prato transformed this modest land in the late ’90s, shifting from producing budget bulk wine to crafting exceptional syrah. The winery has since expanded to include chenin blanc and pinot noir. Now, Gabriele’s daughter Susanna collaborates with him, using minimal intervention to age their wines, which have gained recognition from esteemed gastronomic wine guides like Italy’s Gambero Rosso.

Azienda Agricola Macea

Nestled in Borgo a Mozzano within the Serchio Valley, this compact farmhouse packs a punch. For two decades, winemaker Cipriano Barsanti has built a dedicated following in the natural wine scene, yet he remains committed to keeping the Macea vineyard small despite high demand. This rugged site, set at a slight elevation, experiences significant temperature swings, resulting in wines with bright, fresh acidity reminiscent of those from Burgundy. The standout varieties here include pinot nero, sauvignon blanc, and pinot grigio. Act fast on any releases—they tend to sell out quickly.

Cantina Bravi Alessandro

Primarily an agriturismo, this small, independent winery is truly a labor of love. Situated near the Serchio river, it cultivates grapes in soil rich in schist, enhancing the wine’s pH and imparting refreshing acidity. While some grapes are international, like pinot noir and merlot, in recent years the winery has gained acclaim for reviving ancient native varieties, currently referred to as Garfagnine pending further classification. These unnamed grapes offer vibrant fruit flavors, high acidity, and strong alcohol potential, making them perfect for food-friendly sparkling wines.

Maestà Della Formica

Led by a duo of young enologists, this vineyard sits 3,000 feet above sea level, crafting distinctive high-acid wines that showcase their exceptional terroir. Their riesling stands out, comparable to the refined varieties from the Trentino-Alto Adige region in the Italian Dolomites. Similar to Cantina Bravi Alessandro, this vineyard is celebrated for utilizing native Garfagnine grapes to create refreshing chilled red pet-nat sparkling wines.

Where to stock up

Pizzicheria La Grotta

This charming deli in Lucca, operating since 1865, impresses with its vast array of regional cured meats and cheeses. There’s seating available inside and in a cozy square behind the shop, perfect for enjoying a meat and cheese board paired with a bottle from its carefully curated wine selection. While it may seem like a typical Tuscan tourist spot at first glance, its nostalgic charm hides the exceptional quality of its offerings. In addition to meats and cheeses, it stocks dried pastas, olive oils, local grains, honey, and other local treasures.

Pasticceria Taddeucci

Also situated in Lucca, this beloved pastry shop is renowned for safeguarding a cherished local treat, buccellato (“sweet bread”), a ring-shaped cake brimming with raisins. This delicacy traces its roots back to medieval times, first recorded in the 1400s, long before creamy custards and buttery pastries took the spotlight in Tuscany. Regardless of your feelings about raisins, this is a must-try when visiting the Lucca area.

Caseificio Bertagni

In a nation boasting at least 450 distinct types of traditional cheeses, the Garfagnana mountains produce some truly exceptional varieties from free-roaming goats and sheep. While the Massesi and Garfagnini breeds in these mountains yield less milk than their famous counterparts in Siena and Sardinia, their milk is intensely flavorful, infused with a significant tartness from their diet of wild grasses. Caseificio Bertagni offers a range of sheep and goat cheese blends, primarily goat ricottas and aged pecorinos rich in nutty umami. They also craft chestnut honey and fruit compotes, perfect companions for their cheesy creations.

Caseificio Marovelli

In the wake of WWII, when much of Italy was left in ruins, this family embraced cheesemaking as their path to survival. Now, three generations later, Marovelli produces a variety of sheep milk cheeses, ranging from fresh to aged, using ancient Roman techniques known as conciato. These methods involve wrapping cheese molds in chestnut leaves and grape must before aging them in oak barrels. Their creations also blend spices, local herbs, and milks from cows and goats.

Bellandi Antica Norcineria

Since 1945, this purveyor of cured meats has been crafting traditional salumi specialties native to the Lucca province. Notable offerings include the hyperregional biroldo (head cheese), mondiola (a local variant of mortadella infused with sage), and bazzone (high-altitude-cured prosciutto). A visit to this meat market is well worth the journey.

Where to sleep

Grand Universe Lucca

Opened during the pandemic, this hotel is perfect for adventurous travelers in Lucca, thanks to its extensive concierge services that help plan countryside excursions. After your explorations, unwind on the terrace bar with stunning city views, enjoying sparkling wines sourced from local producers and renowned regions like Champagne. Rates for a double room start at $350 per night in high season and drop to $235 in low season.

Renaissance Tuscany Il Ciocco Resort & Spa

Nestled in the mountains, this five-star resort serves as a fantastic remote base for exploring nearby wine makers, cheesemakers, and charming towns like Barga. The on-site restaurant features local dishes, freshly baked breads, and an excellent selection of local wines, complemented by breathtaking views and attentive concierge service. Rates for a double room start at $300 in high season and $145 in low season.

Agriturismo Pian di Fiume

This enchanting farmstay offers a slice of paradise, serving guests delightful treats made right on the premises, including cured meats, chestnut honey, farro-flour flatbreads and pastas, wild herb liqueurs, and jams. The family-style trattoria showcases an incredible passion for pasta, featuring dishes like ravioli stuffed with roasted meats in cacio e pepe sauce, tordelli Lucchesi, and stranded pastas accompanied by rich ragu, along with fava bean soups enriched with pancetta. These hearty meals provide the perfect energy for river rafting, hiking, and farm excursions organized by the hotel. A double room is available starting at $100 per night during high season and $80 in low season.