A four-day adventure in Big Sky, Montana

Skiing in Montana is epitomized by Big Sky. Located just an hour from Bozeman, it boasts over 300 ski runs that ascend to the summit of Lone Peak, enticing countless skiers and snowboarders each year to enjoy its fresh powder.

Here’s my dilemma: I’m not a skier. While I did learn to ski in Big Sky, and I’ll admit I’m not the best, I truly can’t understand how anyone could choose freezing toes in harsh conditions over this alternative:

Summer in Big Sky is a paradise of wildflower meadows, majestic pine trees, and serene streams. With Yellowstone National Park just an hour away, a day trip there is essential. Let me guide you on how to transition from ski runs to hiking trails before the snow arrives.

When to visit: Arriving early in the day is key, as it’s quite a trek to get here. I recommend booking a morning flight (usually cheaper in summer) that lands in Bozeman by mid-morning (especially if this is a long weekend), allowing you some time to explore before the hour-long drive to Big Sky.

Getting to Big Sky from the airport: The easiest option is to rent a car. You'll need wheels to navigate between Big Sky, the various trailheads, and to explore Yellowstone. You can conveniently pick up your rental at the airport. Note: this itinerary is designed for car travel, but there's also a free shuttle service called the Skyline Bus from Bozeman Walmart; just take a rideshare to get there.

Getting around: If you choose not to rent a car and plan to stay within Big Sky, the airport shuttle also operates local buses that run every 30 minutes to an hour at each designated stop; you can find the schedule on their website.

Where to stay: Your choice depends on how much time you’ll spend in your room and your comfort preferences. If you just need a spot to sleep and freshen up, consider a budget-friendly cabin at Cinnamon Lodge, located right by the Gallatin River. For a more luxurious experience, treat yourself to a stay at Montage Big Sky or rent in Moonlight Basin, where you can enjoy their two lodges, pool, lake, and golf course (depending on your rental). And for an authentic experience of Big Sky Country, why not go camping?

What to pack: Big Sky isn’t about fashion. Jeans are perfectly acceptable for nicer dinners. Remember to pack layers for hiking, even in the summer!

Your hiking outfit should include: an outdoor backpack, a hat, proper hiking boots (not regular sneakers), thick hiking socks, pants or shorts, and both a non-cotton base layer and a non-cotton mid-layer. Bring a raincoat and a lightweight down jacket for unpredictable weather, and don’t forget to pick up bear spray upon arrival—never venture outdoors without it!

Pack a sleep mask (the sun rises early here), plenty of sunscreen, and a petroleum jelly ointment to keep your skin hydrated at higher elevations. Finally, bring a reusable water bottle and make sure to use it frequently.

Leave at home: That oversized cowboy hat you’re considering bringing on the plane (as I’ve been cautioned before).

Day 1

Morning: After landing at Bozeman Airport—one of the coziest, lodge-like airports you’ll ever experience—pick up your rental car and get ready for brunch at Feed Café in Bozeman. I first tasted their Monte Cristo sandwich in 2020, and it remains one of my all-time favorites. They also offer delicious seasonally-inspired lattes, such as huckleberry, which grows abundantly in the area.

How to spend your day: If you need to pick up any groceries, like trail snacks for your adventure, now’s the time. Big Sky has a few markets, but prices can soar as high as the mountain you’re climbing.

Now, it’s time to hit the road. The drive from Bozeman to Big Sky takes about an hour, but it feels more like a scenic journey. Most of the route winds alongside the Gallatin River, where you’ll see many fly fishers, trailheads, and campervans.

Once you arrive at your accommodations, take a moment to do something you might not want to: rest. Unpack, soak in the mountain views (which are impossible to miss no matter where you stay), and hydrate with a bottle of water. You’ve made it!

Dinner: Head to the banks of the Gallatin River for some Texas-style BBQ at The Riverhouse. This is Montana, after all—so you can’t go wrong with brisket or chopped beef. Start with appetizers like fried pickles and fried cheese curds, and don’t forget to save room for a slice of Texas sheet cake topped with vanilla ice cream (it's a generous portion to share).

After dark: After a day of activities, your first night is the perfect time to enjoy a late evening out. Big Sky may not boast a bustling nightlife, but you likely won’t need to venture far from The Riverhouse for a good time. Check their calendar for live music, bingo nights, and line dancing events.

If you’re feeling weary from your journey and want to get a good night’s rest, at least indulge in some stargazing by the firepit or wherever you’re staying. I’ve rarely encountered skies so clear and magnificent (or Big, ha). Tomorrow calls for an early start, so no shame in catching up on sleep.

Day 2

Morning: It’s Yellowstone day! Montana boasts two incredible national parks, and one is right in Big Sky’s backyard. The earlier you start your road trip, the better. Aim to leave by 6:30-7am to avoid traffic into the park. You’ll find significantly fewer crowds during the week or even on a Friday compared to weekends.

Before you leave town, fill up on gas and grab some caffeine at the Big Sky Conoco, which shares a lot with the town’s only drive-in coffee spot, The Lone Perk. Enjoy your coffee along with a pastry or breakfast sandwich as you make your way down Gallatin Rd. It’s just over an hour to the park’s west entrance.

How to spend your day: Dive into one of Yellowstone’s two loops—north or south. Here’s a hot take: you don’t need to visit Old Faithful. While the geyser erupts reliably every hour, it tends to be overcrowded, and there are plenty of other fascinating hydrothermal features throughout the park. Let’s focus on the lesser-trafficked (but still popular) northern loop.

Without any stops, you could complete the loop in about 2.5 hours, but time has a way of slipping by in this magical place, and I encourage you to embrace it. Take breaks for short hikes at must-see spots like the Artist Paint Pots trail, which showcases bubbling hydrothermal features; Mammoth Hot Springs, where minerals and geothermal activity create stunning limestone terraces; and the Grand Canyon Falls, which is that waterfall you’ve likely seen all over the internet.

Visitors to Yellowstone National Park should be aware of several key points, primarily: 1. Maintain a safe distance from wildlife like bison, elk, bears, and wolves (detailed in the pamphlet you receive at the park entrance), and 2. Always stick to the boardwalks.

Dinner: After a day spent enjoying the great outdoors, nothing hits the spot quite like a hearty pizza and a cold beer. Head back to Big Sky for a meal at Milkie’s, and consider staying afterward to enjoy a game of darts or pool.

Day 3

Morning: Use the morning to catch up on some much-needed sleep (or catch a stunning sunrise if you forgot your sleep mask), then head into town for a coffee and a breakfast burrito at Cowboy Coffee. This spot originally opened in Jackson, Wyoming, and now has its very own location in Montana.

How to spend the day: Choose between two classic hikes in Big Sky: Lemonknob Loop or Beehive Basin. Both are moderately challenging and offer breathtaking views. The main difference is distance—Lemonknob is nearly four miles round-trip, while Beehive is about seven miles, so be sure to pack a sandwich for the longer trek. Beehive also features a scenic lake near the summit.

If you have some free time before getting ready for dinner, make your way to any nearby body of water! Take a refreshing plunge into the Gallatin River by leaping off Green Bridge, or if you're staying somewhere more upscale, find a jacuzzi to soothe those tired muscles after a day of adventure.

Dinner: For a special dining experience in Big Sky (jeans are perfectly acceptable), head to Michaelangelo’s, known for its comforting Italian dishes. My recommendations include the spinach salad topped with fried pancetta, strawberries, walnuts, and balsamic; the sacchetti al tartufo (delicious ricotta and black truffle stuffed pasta in a heavenly truffle cream sauce), which the staff will suggest everyone at the table try; and finish off with crème brûlée adorned with fresh berries.

Day 4

How to spend the day: Load up the car, check out from your lodging, and drive into town. Stop by Hungry Moose, a delightful market-deli-bakery combo, for a pastry and coffee. Then, make your way a few minutes down Ousel Falls Rd (or enjoy a half-hour stroll along the roadside path) to the Ousel Falls Trailhead for a hike that offers one of the best distance-to-view ratios you’ll ever experience.

The complete loop to the breathtaking falls is just under two miles, with numerous spots to pause and relish the soothing sounds of the rocky creek. This trail tends to get busier as the day progresses, so starting early is definitely advantageous.

With a heavy heart, it’s time to return to Bozeman for your flight. On your way to the airport, make a stop at Roost, a fried chicken spot conveniently located next to Feed Café, where you had breakfast on your first day. Try a fried chicken sandwich or the Alabama chicken sandwich (this ‘Bama native was thrilled to see white sauce on the menu), and maybe grab some fried okra before heading to BZN.

By the way, if you want to win over TSA, it's best to leave the bear spray at home.