A hidden vineyard in the heart of Paris, where the wine is known for its captivating, mysterious quality.

On an October morning shrouded in mist, winemaker Vincent Bolenor assembles his team amidst rows of vines heavy with ripe grapes. Together, they spend the day harvesting the fruit, carefully placing it into trucks for pressing.

This is a familiar sight across France each harvest season, as vineyards gather the grapes that contribute to the nation's renowned wine culture. But Bolenor and his team aren’t in the famed wine regions of Bordeaux, Burgundy, Languedoc, or the Loire Valley.

Instead, they’re in the very heart of Paris.

Clos Montmartre, located on the vibrant northern slopes of Montmartre, just beneath the stunning Sacré-Cœur Basilica, is a small yet charming vineyard. It is home to roughly 2,000 vines that thrive in the midst of Paris, oblivious to their urban surroundings.

The grapes are a remnant of a time when Montmartre was a charming village surrounded by vineyards. Located further north and receiving less sunlight than the prestigious French wine regions, these vines once produced wines of dubious quality, eventually disappearing as Montmartre became part of Paris in 1860.

However, the tradition of grape growing in Montmartre endured. Today, Clos Montmartre remains a quaint, serene haven away from the city's hustle and bustle, guarded by the Museum of Montmartre. Each October, local gardeners and urban wine lovers unite to harvest the grapes, right beneath the noses of unsuspecting Parisians.

This year is no exception. As sleepy Parisians shuffle off to work and delivery trucks roll by, the gardeners prepare for an annual harvest that has been happening in this spot since the 12th century.

With fewer than 2,000 bottles produced annually, this exclusive wine is mainly sold at auction, with all proceeds supporting social initiatives within the 18th arrondissement, the vibrant district of Paris where the vineyard resides.

“Montmartre was a very poor district until the 1950s, and its people have always created their own sense of solidarity,” says Eric Lejoindre, the mayor of the 18th. “That’s why it remains so important for us to preserve these traditions and the spirit in which they were founded.”

“Tending to the vines in Paris is truly a unique experience, especially in Montmartre,” says Bolenor. “And the fact that the proceeds from wine sales benefit charitable causes only adds to its allure.”

Working in harmony with nature

As the harvest progresses, truckloads of freshly picked grapes are transported down the slopes of Montmartre to the 18th arrondissement’s town hall. Beneath this grand municipal building, in an almost hidden wine cellar, the grapes from the urban vineyard are processed and bottled to produce wine.

Sylviane Leplâtre, Clos Montmartre’s resident wine expert, is ready in the cellar to begin processing the freshly harvested grapes. As the lead winemaker, she understands the complexity of the task ahead. Beyond the vineyard’s chilly climate, the soil in Paris is light and sandy, lacking the rich fertility needed for ideal grape-growing conditions.

But as a trained agronomist and oenologist, she is well-prepared for the challenge.

Thanks to Leplâtre’s dedication, expertise, and instincts, Montmartre’s wine is steadily gaining recognition.

Leplâtre takes a customized approach to winemaking, selecting grape varieties best suited to the Parisian terroir and adjusting her methods to suit each harvest. Drawing from her experience working with vineyards worldwide, she aims to bring out the unique flavors and works in harmony with nature, not against it.

Leplâtre and her team produce both red and rosé wines, both known for their vibrant color and rich aromatic qualities. The red is light-bodied with low tannins, and Leplâtre suggests it’s an ideal choice for an aperitif.

“Recently, we had the wine undergo a blind tasting by a sommelier. He couldn’t identify it as coming from Montmartre and actually found it quite impressive,” she says, smiling.

Eric Lejoindre adds, “There’s an air of mystery surrounding the wine. That sense of intrigue is what makes the Montmartre wine festival and the neighborhood’s history so special. We keep it a bit of a secret, though it’s a secret that’s widely known.”