A June Day

The coronavirus pandemic has made it abundantly clear how deeply connected our lives are across the globe.

We are undeniably part of a global civilization, and as many brands have kindly reminded us, “We’re all in this together.” However, the spread of COVID-19 has also highlighted our differences: the varied responses of societies to crises, the values we hold dear, and how effectively our governments support those in need—or fail to do so.

The initial days of June brought anxiety to much of the world. As protests erupted in the U.S. against racial violence and the killing of George Floyd by police in Minneapolis, cities worldwide were yearning for a return to normalcy following months of COVID-19 lockdowns, as restrictions on bars and restaurants began to ease.

Nearly every major city around the world endured significant shutdowns throughout the spring, yet our responses have varied widely. On June 1 and 2, Paris and Melbourne welcomed dine-in services back, while Berlin reopened its bars—cheers to that! In contrast, Bogotá only allowed takeout starting June 1, and even a simple walk in Moscow requires advance planning. Meanwhile, Ho Chi Minh City and Tokyo greeted June as they always do, with little celebration beyond the seasonal blooms and ripening fruits; for them, COVID-19 is now a distant and frightening memory.

The reality is that, despite the widespread tragedy brought on by the novel coronavirus, our experiences today are anything but uniform, heavily influenced by our locations. Recently, Dinogo enlisted an international team of photographers and writers to capture daily life where it intersects with food and drink across 17 cities on the same day. What follows resembles a diary of global dining on June 2, 2020. These snapshots reveal our varied realities as we move closer to sharing meals, drinks, and everyday moments together. — Lesley Suter, travel editor

➾ For ten weeks, Mexico City has been under lockdown, severely impacting restaurants: over 6,000 have permanently closed, according to the restaurateur chamber. The remaining establishments are preparing for the next phase: starting June 15, they will operate at 30 percent capacity with stricter health protocols. On June 2, despite a two-week quarantine extension, people are out and about. Downtown, Alberto Sarabia, the lead taquero at the famous Los Cocuyos, smiles beneath his mask as he serves tacos for the first time after a six-week closure. In San Juan market, Oaxaca vendor Ricardo Castañeda reports 70 to 80 percent losses in sales and hopes for a return of tourism and his regular customers. “We never closed,” Castañeda states. “We need to eat.” He’s not alone; 31.5 million Mexicans depend on the informal economy of street vending and other non-taxed jobs, making it hard to stay home. Anxiety is palpable throughout the city’s food sector. A light at the end of the tunnel is anticipated on June 15, but the future of the “new normal” remains uncertain. How could they predict it? This is uncharted territory. — Natalia de la Rosa, Mexico City | Photographs by Juan de Dios Garza

➾ During lunchtime, street food carts are bustling with activity. Brick-and-mortar restaurants aren't required to space out their tables, and diners aren't wearing masks. On June 2, life seems somewhat normal here in Ho Chi Minh City. Restaurants and food stalls have been operating since late April, following the end of the country’s social-distancing campaign. No community transmission has been reported in nearly 50 days, allowing those businesses that weathered the pandemic to operate as usual. However, the restaurant industry is still recovering. Ms. Tu, a street food vendor in the central business district, shares that she’s glad to be back open after a two-month closure, though business is only at 50 percent of its pre-pandemic level. With borders still closed to international visitors, establishments reliant on foreign tourists are struggling. A downtown location of the popular Japanese-Italian chain Pizza 4P’s is surprisingly quiet tonight. Nevertheless, the fact that these places are open, with customers dining without masks, demonstrates Vietnam’s remarkable success in managing the coronavirus. — Michael Tatarski, Ho Chi Minh City | Photographs by Alberto Prieto

➾ Cibi is alive with customers exchanging smiles and knowing glances. June 2 marks only the second day in months that they can enjoy a meal seated at the Melbourne cafe. It almost feels like things are returning to “normal,” though hand-sanitizing stations and social-distancing tape on the floor serve as reminders of ongoing safety measures. Australia has managed the COVID-19 pandemic better than many countries, and as of June 1, restaurants can reopen with strict regulations: a maximum of 20 patrons, social distancing, enhanced sanitation, and collecting customer contact details. Many establishments are offering only set menus and requiring advance payment, but that hasn’t deterred bookings. “These first few nights, we’ve welcomed many regulars who supported us before and during COVID-19 with takeout,” says Michael Bascetta, co-owner of Bar Liberty and Capitano. “It’s reassuring to have that community support.” Some places continue initiatives launched during the pandemic. Anchovy sells khao jee pate from a takeout window, Ima Project Cafe packages popular nori paste and kimchi for home cooks, and several restaurants provide free meals to those in need. “Our community is stronger together than ever,” notes Asako Miura of Ima Project Cafe. “But it’s a long road ahead.” — Audrey Bourget, Melbourne | Photo by Michael Woods

➾ Bars reopened in Berlin on June 2, 18 days after restaurants were allowed to reopen under similar social-distancing measures. With each new phase of Lockerungen (relaxation of the rules), Berliners are eager to reclaim a piece of their new normal, which now means filling dining rooms and barstools. On June 2, the usual anxiety that has colored conversations since the lockdown began in March seems absent. Dining out in Berlin feels much like it did before, except servers are wearing masks. Some establishments post social-distancing guidelines, but many do not adhere to the government’s recommendation for customers to provide contact information for tracing. Most skip the formality and head straight for the drinks. Diners appear largely unfazed; I declined an indoor seat while dining out on June 2, but others behind us eagerly accepted it. Interestingly, 350 police in riot gear chased activists protesting an eviction during my outdoor dinner, but hardly anyone seemed to react. Berliners are tough to rattle. — Joe Baur, Berlin | Photographs by Joe Baur

➾ “Please maintain a distance of at least one meter,” proclaims the sign by the entrance of Le Violon Dingue, held up by a mannequin styled as an exaggerated French chef. Following this request is a challenge inside the small bakery in downtown Stockholm on June 2. Normally, the bakery caters mainly to large offices, so its limited indoor space is usually manageable. Co-owner Helena Bergqvist recalls, “I’ll never forget March 16; we lost 70 percent of our business overnight.” Although Swedish authorities never fully shut down the restaurant industry like many other European nations, many citizens adhered to public health guidelines and distanced themselves. After Sweden reported its first COVID-19 death on March 11, dining out plummeted, leading to significant declines in the stock market and hospitality revenue—estimated between 40 and 90 percent. Some restaurants were even temporarily closed by authorities for exceeding capacity. However, hope is returning as the number of group orders at Le Violon Dingue slowly rises. When requests for 10 to 15 sandwiches come in, it signals that people are beginning to return to work. — Per Styregård, Stockholm | Photographs by Petter Bäcklund

➾ In Taiwan, life is resuming normalcy, but many Dinogoies now face a new routine that includes temperature checks, hand sanitizers at every turn, environmentally harmful single-use utensils, and masked servers and chefs, along with plastic barriers between diners at crowded tables. — Leslie Nguyen-Okwu, Taiwan | Photo by Sean Marc Lee

➾ On June 2, the grand dome of the White Rabbit is filled not with diners enjoying the view from the 16th floor in Moscow, but with neatly packed white paper bags filled with food—some containing gourmet meals for later pickup, others offering free lunches for the city's many medical workers. The Delicatessen restaurant and bar also provides meals to healthcare professionals, with today's menu featuring tomato soup and okonomiyaki. In the dining room, where a large communal table once thrived, a ping-pong table now stands for staff recreation. Points are noted in chalk on the wall, alongside marks for each day of quarantine. Restaurants in Moscow have been shuttered since March due to COVID-19; however, rather than declaring a state of emergency, President Vladimir Putin opted for a period of “nonworking days.” This distinction is crucial, as it means landlords can still demand full rent while restaurants operate at a fraction of their former revenue through takeout and delivery. “If things don’t change soon, we’re facing disaster,” warns Delicatessen's bar manager, Ivan Semchenko. “The government isn’t helping us; we’re relying solely on ourselves right now.” — Polina Chernyshova, Moscow | Photographs by Pasha Gulian

➾ Outside Dry Dock, a boutique liquor store in the Parkhurst neighborhood of Johannesburg, boxes of beer, wine, and gin spill onto the sidewalk. Owner Martin Pienaar and his team are busy fulfilling 600 online orders for drive-thru pickup and courier delivery. On June 1, South Africa lifted its 10-week alcohol ban as it transitioned to level three of its COVID-19 response, but it may take time before residents can enjoy a meal alongside a bottle of pinotage at a restaurant. The country is recovering from one of the strictest lockdowns globally, initiated on March 27, which required all restaurants to close completely. By early May, some restaurants reopened for delivery from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. Food delivery services were overwhelmed and struggled to meet demand, while smaller Mytouries faced delivery fees up to 40 percent, making profitability a challenge. Although restaurants can now offer pickup, many remain closed, evaluating the financial risks in an already delicate economic climate. The restaurant industry has urged the government to allow in-person dining at 70 percent capacity to mitigate further job losses. As the tourism minister prepares a proposal for the National Coronavirus Command Council, both diners and restaurant owners hope for a prompt decision to save the $4.21 billion industry. — Iga Motylska, Johannesburg | Photographs by Iga Motylska

➾ On June 2, as eastern Paris officially begins “phase 2” of its post-confinement revival, the atmosphere feels reminiscent of the week following the November 13, 2015 attacks, when locals united in their favorite bars and restaurants. From early risers eagerly occupying café terraces for their morning espressos to friends enjoying leisurely apéritifs, Parisians are resolute in reclaiming their disrupted lifestyle. Until June 22, only outdoor seating is allowed at restaurants, bars, and cafés. Groups of fewer than ten gather around bistro tables spaced one meter apart, overflowing onto sidewalks and streets, sipping cocktails and savoring cheese and charcuterie from masked servers, acting as if life had not been disrupted by a global health crisis. With minimal social distancing and few masks, it feels like a reunion after a long summer break. — Lindsey Tramuta, Paris | Photo by Joann Pai

➾ If you found your way to Hong Kong today, you could dine out. However, entry is restricted. On June 2, all restaurants remain open (they were never mandated to close), along with bars and markets. The only exceptions are non-residents arriving from anywhere outside mainland China, Macao, and Taiwan, who face strict entry restrictions, including hospital admission or a mandatory two-week quarantine. For those already in the city, outings involve minor hassles—temperature checks, contact-tracing forms, masks, and a limit of eight per group. However, guests have adapted, leaning in for digital thermometers as part of the routine. The pandemic isn’t the primary concern for Hong Kongers. This morning, I encountered a Lennon wall of Post-It notes at a pro-protest “yellow” cha chaan teng in Tsim Sha Tsui, meeting a young protester involved in the anti-government demonstrations since last summer. She ordered a scrambled egg sandwich, porridge, and milk tea, adding an unsweetened iced coffee. “I’m fasting,” she explained. “All this stress made me binge-eat for a long time. Now I fast for 20 hours daily.” — Andrew Genung, Hong Kong | Photographs by Andrew Genung

➾ As the curfew approaches, an unsettling quiet descends upon Yaba’s Industrial Avenue in Lagos, usually alive with open-air bars and nightclubs. This street, typically bustling on weekends, now lacks the vibrant flashes of LED lights, the booming music from DJ booths, and the lively chatter of partygoers. Vendors selling spicy meat skewers, grilled chicken, and fish are nearly absent. The city’s initial restrictions, enacted on March 26, forced bars and nightclubs to close, while restaurants remained open for takeout. On June 2, Nigeria entered the second phase of reopening, yet the ban on bars—vital to Lagos’s nightlife—remains in effect. The nationwide curfew now lasts from 10 p.m. to 4 a.m. Without the nightlife, Yaba has lost its character, energy, and vibrancy, leaving uncertainty about when normalcy will return. — Linus Unah, Lagos | Photographs by Adetona Omokanye

➾ Slowly and cautiously, Tokyo is emerging from its COVID-19 shutdown. Most people wear masks, commuter trains are becoming busier, though rush hour remains quieter than before, and diners are gradually returning to their favorite spots. Following the lifting of the state of emergency on May 25, many chefs were quick to resume operations—some opening immediately, others a few days later, with most welcoming back customers by early June. However, on June 2, nightlife in traditional areas appears far from normal. In Shini, the atmosphere is subdued. “It’s still less than 20 percent of what it used to be,” shares a bored worker outside a kushiyaki grill. “But at least it’s an improvement from last month.” Chef Shin Harakawa of Blind Donkey reopened on May 26 and, while he feels tired, he is optimistic and grateful for the returning customers. Just as the city begins to quiet for the night, the government announces a rise in infection rates. The bright red lights of the Rainbow Bridge in Tokyo Bay serve as a warning that we’re still navigating through challenging times. — Robbie Swinnerton, Tokyo | Photographs by Anna Bedynska

➾ Despite a third of its bars and Mytouries still closed, Carrer Parlament in Barcelona’s lively San Antoni neighborhood buzzes on this Tuesday evening. Groups of two and four gather around carefully arranged outdoor tables, some even approaching the city’s 10-person limit, enjoying tiny bottles of beer and chilled vermouth. While some patrons have completely removed their masks, others keep them handy, resting under their chins. Following the lifting of the lockdown that began on March 14, it’s a joy to see families and friends reconnecting over shared meals, seemingly unconcerned for their safety in the bustling public space. Just a day earlier, around 200 people had gathered outside the U.S. consulate to protest the murder of George Floyd, with Barcelona’s militarized police, the mossos de esquadra, present to ensure safety. Protesters held signs and donned masks that read “I can’t breathe” in multiple languages, chanting “No justice, no peace,” asserting that black lives matter everywhere, including here. — Chris Ciolli, Barcelona | Photo by Gerard Moral

➾ The Carmel Market is the heartbeat of food culture in Tel Aviv. It reopened in May after a two-month closure, but on June 2, the enforced limits on crowding still feel unusual. Bright red cherries signal the season, fresh pitas baked with za’atar are tempting, and mountains of olives sit beside recycled Coca-Cola bottles filled with olive oil. Elderly locals enjoy their espresso on overturned jugs, savoring the return to their cherished environment after a tough few months of confinement to within 100 meters of home. Six days into reopening, cafes, bars, and restaurants have resumed service with new regulations: masks, temperature checks, disposable menus, and increased spacing between tables. Busy streets have been closed to vehicles, creating more outdoor dining areas marked by painted purple parking spots. In Jaffa, mismatched chairs and Turkish carpets extend outside Mansheya, a modern Arab restaurant and cultural center — the first of its kind to open since the pandemic began. The novel coronavirus seems to have receded in locals' minds, who thrive in a bustling atmosphere, working to preserve Tel Aviv's vibrant spirit — at least until a potential second wave arrives. — Keren Brown, Tel Aviv | Photographs by Corinna Kern

➾ Colombia is enduring one of the longest and strictest lockdowns worldwide, earning President Iván Duque Márquez praise from the World Health Organization, yet causing anxiety among citizens. In Bogotá, mandatory confinement began on March 24, with the latest extension running until June 30, although certain businesses are allowed to reopen. Until June 1, even takeaway was prohibited; restaurants could only offer delivery. Now, after passing strict inspections, establishments can permit diners to collect food for takeout. On June 2, physical barriers prevent access to counters, while makeshift serving tables display signs promoting social distancing. Sanitizers, masks, and cleaning supplies adorn the spaces. With no clear date for reopening or established protocols, many restaurant owners are biding their time, strategizing for survival, and preparing for an uncertain future. How restaurants fill takeout orders relies on their creativity and resources, but the stress and dedication to the cause are shared by all. Farmers, chefs, restaurateurs, food suppliers, delivery personnel, security staff, and even customers stand united in the fight against infection. While Colombians have faced isolation and uncertainty, their resilience and proactive spirit shine through. — Juliana Duque, Bogotá | Photographs by Alejandro Osses

➾ On a drizzly winter night in Auckland, six guests gather outside Pasture restaurant. A stylish couple inquires about a chlorophyll-green abalone dish they spotted on Instagram, while two familiar faces yearn for the chef’s three-month-aged wagyu. At 5:45, chef Ed Verner greets each guest with a drink and guides them to their seats at the six-person chef’s counter, facing the vibrant hearth that fuels the 21-course menu. Just three weeks after reopening, the city’s top fine dining spot is fully booked every weekend through August. As the city shakes off the burden of isolation, when meals were limited to what could be scavenged from nearly empty grocery shelves, the memories of distant hugs and handshakes feel surreal. Only a paper sign-in sheet and a meter between tables remain to remind diners of those tough times. This evening, New Zealand feels even more like a remote island in the Pacific, illuminated by the warm glow of the restaurant’s wood-burning fire. — Hillary Eaton, Auckland | Photo by Hillary Eaton

➾ June 2 marks Republic Day in Italy, and in any other year, Milan would be deserted as locals escape for long weekend trips and restaurants close for the holiday. However, in 2020, Republic Day coincides with the lifting of Italy’s inter-region and foreign travel bans, leaving the Milanese with no choice but to enjoy a staycation. Since early May, restaurants have slowly revived, operating at 50 percent capacity and offering takeout and delivery options. Diners at alfresco spots around the usually vibrant Arco della Pace quarter illustrate changing social norms: a lone diner carefully avoids contact, a group of six clinks their spritzes with masks dangling from their ears, and a trio exchanges shoulder pats instead of the traditional double-cheek kisses. Meanwhile, tensions rise in Piazza del Duomo amid a right-wing political protest demanding the resignation of the prime minister over his COVID-19 response and the legalization of 600,000 migrant workers during the pandemic. Whether seated at tables or protesting, the city buzzes with life and anticipation on the cusp of a new phase of reopening. — Jaclyn DeGiorgio, Milan | Photographs by Laura La Monaca

➾ The streets of New Delhi are barely recognizable without the usual throngs of people chatting over cups of chai or vying for the last mutton kebab. The once rapid pace of the city has slowed to a crawl, signaling tough times. Since the lockdown in March due to COVID-19, restaurants, markets, and butcher shops that once formed the heart of city life stand eerily empty. “People are avoiding meat; they think the virus can spread through it,” explains Afzal, a butcher in INA, Delhi’s wholesale market. Nearby, a vegetable vendor laments the excess of spinach on his hands. Plump mangoes herald the arrival of summer, while ice cream vendors deliver treats to eager children peeking from balconies. Signs of hope are few and far between. Abandoned pushcarts that once served chholay (spiced chickpeas) sit forlornly in corners, and police have dismantled the tin vans that usually served students “Masala Chinese.” “I miss everybody,” sighs Vishwa Kumar, a local chai shop owner in Chitranjan Park, New Delhi’s Bengali neighborhood, where men once lingered over newspapers and tea for hours. “Don’t bring up the virus. Let’s talk about something else.” — Sharanya Deepak, New Delhi | Photographs by Seonath Wakrambam