A local author responds to common questions about New Orleans

I’ve been writing for Dinogo Planet since 2007 and have contributed to over 100 guidebooks across three continents. During an assignment in 2009, while researching my first guidebook in New Orleans, I fell in love with the city at a time when I was seeking a place to call home. Soon after, I relocated here and started a family; my daughter, who is proudly from New Orleans, just celebrated her 10th birthday.

Is Mardi Gras worth attending?

Absolutely. Most likely!

I truly adore Mardi Gras. It’s the most magical time of the year. Many visitors shy away from it, thinking it’s all about excessive drinking and outrageous behavior, but that’s not the case. Such antics are mainly limited to the French Quarter; if you flash someone along the St. Charles Ave parade route, you might just get scolded by some disgruntled parents.

Mardi Gras is primarily a family celebration. The tradition of carnival is rich and varied in its celebrations, but for many New Orleanians, the holiday revolves around watching grand parades glide down St. Charles Avenue, enjoying performances by high school marching bands, and collecting 'throws' from the elaborate floats. All these activities are designed with children in mind.

The carnival season lasts about 2.5 weeks, filled with parades and festivities, including Chewbacchus, a vibrant mix of DIY costumes, handmade floats, and a celebration of nerd culture, all while maintaining a wholesome atmosphere.

On Mardi Gras day itself, you might encounter the St. Anne’s parade, a vibrant display of homemade costumes that delights the senses. These personal artistic expressions are what make Mardi Gras day truly memorable. However, it's important to note that public drunkenness and large crowds are common. If you’re very introverted, you might want to avoid Fat Tuesday.

Is attending Jazz Fest a good idea?

The New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival is the highlight of the city's music calendar, making it either a must-see event or something to steer clear of, depending on your preferences.

Jazz Fest features major headline acts (like Springsteen and the Rolling Stones) alongside many local New Orleans musicians. It draws large crowds. If you enjoy big music festivals, it's a great choice. However, if that’s not your scene but you still appreciate local music, here’s a tip: you can enjoy fantastic NOLA music all year round. While the weather during Jazz Fest (the last weekend of April and the first weekend of May) is typically wonderful and talent is plentiful, exploring resources like WWOZ Livewire or taking a stroll down Frenchmen St in the evening can lead you to excellent local performances any month of the year.

Where should I dine?

For a more upscale dining experience with white tablecloths, check out the French Quarter, Central Business District (CBD)/Warehouse District, Uptown, and the Garden District. This isn't a strict guideline; fancy restaurants can be found in other neighborhoods too. However, these areas are where they tend to cluster. The pace of property changes in the French Quarter can make it feel like newer, trendier, yet less famous restaurants are more common in the CBD.

For affordable dining focused on plate lunches or classic dishes like po'boys and crawfish, venture beyond the Quarter and CBD. The city's residential areas boast a variety of local eateries, ranging from budget-friendly to upscale. A quirky example of the latter is Jacque-Imo’s, known for its ribeye steaks and alligator cheesecake.

Where should I stay?

If you’re looking for modern luxury and amenities, the Central Business District features the most extravagant hotels, while the French Quarter provides luxurious accommodations with a historical flair. For a more residential atmosphere, consider staying in the Garden or Lower Garden District, or across town in the Marigny or Bywater. Lodging in these neighborhoods often has an upscale bohemian feel, with the Marigny/Bywater appealing more to millennials and Gen Z, while the Garden District and LGD have a slightly more traditional vibe.

New Orleans is making efforts, with mixed results, to regulate illegal short-term rentals. Many of these rentals are owned by out-of-town operators and investors, contributing to a local housing shortage (a problem not unique to New Orleans, but certainly present here). If you choose a short-term rental, check if they have an approved STR license. Also, be cautious of listings claiming to be ‘just’ a mile from the French Quarter; a mile can feel quite far, especially at night.

Is it safe?

Violent crime rates have decreased in New Orleans, but it can still occur, even affecting tourists. Use common sense: stick to well-lit and busy streets when walking at night. Stay aware of your surroundings without being overly paranoid. New Orleanians are generally friendly and helpful, so it’s wise to heed local advice when uncertain.

What should I be aware of regarding hurricane season?

The Atlantic hurricane season spans from June 1 to November 30, though some experts believe climate change is extending this period. The most severe weather typically occurs in late August and September, but storms can threaten at any time during the season. Interestingly, years with stable weather can bring their own challenges; fewer storms can lead to increased humidity, resulting in conditions like those seen in the summer of 2023, where heat indices reached triple digits throughout much of August.

If you're visiting during hurricane season, stay updated by checking the National Hurricane Center for information on any potential weather threats while you’re here. While some hurricanes can have devastating effects on the area (such as Katrina and Ida), many others are near misses that don’t significantly disrupt life in the city. Consult the NHC and travel based on your comfort with the risks involved.

Do you have a go-to local bar?

Absolutely – I have several spots depending on the vibe I’m after. For live music, I usually visit the Spotted Cat. If I'm looking for great cocktails and people watching, Bar Tonique is my choice. For an artistic atmosphere with poets and artists, I prefer Bar Redux. When I'm just out with friends, we often hit up Pal’s.

Do you have a favorite local band?

If I’m in a relaxed mood, I might catch Jon Cleary at the Maple Leaf or John Boutte at d.b.a. But when I feel like dancing, I seek out a brass band performance. Honestly, I’m open to any brass music; it always lifts my spirits. For more insights into New Orleans’ music scene, read about it here.

What do you do when you need to get outdoors?

Honestly, I crave a boat – whether it's a small motorboat or a kayak – so I can dive deep into the local bayous and swamps. It may not be an ancient forest, but I enjoy strolling the trails in Couterie Forest at City Park whenever I need a touch of greenery. Otherwise, I venture south to the Barataria Preserve, where I can stroll the boardwalk in search of alligators. I adore spotting these ancient creatures, and I also love using the opportunity to visit one of my favorite out-of-town spots on my way home: Tan Dinh.

What is a second line? Can I join one?

Second lines are vibrant community parades that wind through the city’s predominantly Black neighborhoods every Sunday of the year, except during the sweltering summer months. These events showcase brass bands, spectacular dancing, and a strong sense of civic pride. Each second line is coordinated by a Social Aid & Pleasure Club, which historically acted as insurance brokers, credit unions, and general support networks in Black New Orleans. 

A second line can last most of the day, so it requires some stamina to keep up. It's important to remember that these celebrations are deeply rooted in the city’s African American culture. While guests are warmly welcomed to join second lines (this article will guide you), it’s crucial to be respectful. Stay clear of the dancers and musicians, and avoid taking photos without permission. Keep your common sense and manners in check, and you’ll witness something truly unique and beautiful. A thorough list of second lines is available on the WWOZ website.

What does your perfect day in New Orleans look like?

Starting with coffee at a charming cafe like Z’otz or Station. Then, a leisurely stroll with my dog in City Park. Enjoying a nice dinner at a spot with outdoor seating, perhaps near Esplanade Avenue. A fun night at a bar like Pal’s, followed by a walk along Bayou St. John, and wrapping up with music at a local venue like BJ’s or Carrollton Station.

Are you a fan of crawfish?

Are you kidding me? Do I like crawfish? I can demolish a whole table of those tasty little critters. They’re absolutely delicious! Be sure to enjoy them in season (spring). I particularly love Vietnamese-style crawfish, especially when cooked in a rich garlic butter sauce. You’ll need to venture a bit out of town, but the best version can be found at Big EZ Seafood.