A once-abandoned train station reimagined as a stunning hotel

Nestled in the Aragon Valley with the snow-capped Pyrenees as its backdrop, Canfranc Station stands as a majestic landmark. Once deserted, it has now been reborn as a lavish hotel.

In 1928, Canfranc Station opened its doors as a grand rail terminal, with a lavish ceremony attended by Spain’s King and the French President. Though located in Spain, it’s just a stone’s throw from the French border.

During World War II, Canfranc became a hub of intrigue, involving espionage, arrests, and even gold smuggling. The station ceased operations in 1970, falling into disuse for years.

After decades of abandonment, restoration efforts began to revive the once-glorious station, transforming it into a luxury hotel under the Barcelo Hotel Group. Canfranc Station finally opened its doors to guests in January 2023.

Railway and history enthusiasts now have a must-visit destination, with Canfranc's reopening warmly embraced by locals, according to Mayor Fernando Sánchez Morales.

"We’re thrilled to see the station come back to life and shine once again," says Sánchez Morales in an interview with Dinogo Travel.

A New Era

Even in its decayed state, Canfranc still drew crowds: Photographers, captivated by the station’s historic charm, flocked to capture a forgotten chapter of European railway heritage. Designed by Spanish architect Fernando Ramirez de Dampierre, the station’s allure was undeniable.

For those who appreciate the haunting beauty of abandoned spaces, the station in its crumbling form may have seemed more captivating than it is now as a hotel.

That said, Canfranc Station looks nothing short of stunning after its revitalization, and it’s already drawing guests to its newly transformed spaces.

Architect Thomas O’Hare discovered Canfranc Station by chance a few years ago. Upon learning the abandoned station was being turned into a hotel, O’Hare promised to return once it was completed.

Currently on vacation at the hotel with his family, O’Hare, who resides in Belfast, Northern Ireland, is enjoying his time at the revamped station.

"The station’s grand exterior evokes the feeling of travel from a bygone era," O’Hare shares with Dinogo Travel.

The O’Hare family is spending their days skiing at Candanchu, one of Spain’s oldest ski resorts, just a short distance from the hotel.

A Storied Past

Canfranc Station, strategically located at the border, was originally a shared asset between France and Spain. Today, it is owned by the regional Aragon government in Spain, who partnered with the Barcelo Hotel Group for its transformation into a hotel.

During World War II, Canfranc Station was a key site, witnessing both tragic and hopeful moments alike.

Before the Nazi occupation of Canfranc, the station served as a vital escape route for European Jews fleeing Nazi persecution.

Ramón Javier Campo Fraile, the journalist behind the project heraldo.es/canfranc, which won the Premio Nacional de Periodismo Digital in 2003, shared insights with Dinogo Travel in 2017 about Canfranc’s rich history.

"In the early years of the war, from 1940 to 1942, thousands of Jews escaped by train from Canfranc to Lisbon and the United States," he explained.

Among those fleeing Canfranc by train were notable figures such as the painter Max Ernst, who was not Jewish, and Marc Chagall. The American singer and dancer Josephine Baker also passed through the station, according to Campo Fraile.

Spies used Canfranc Station as a route to join the anti-Nazi French Resistance and to carry vital messages to Allied countries.

"The station was also utilized by the Allies to transmit information to France and Spain through an extensive spy network," said Mayor Sánchez Morales in 2017.

In November 1942, the Nazis seized control of Canfranc and held the municipality until June 1944.

Escaping through Canfranc became increasingly difficult, and the station became a site of numerous arrests.

Canfranc was the only Spanish town occupied by the Nazis, and their presence was heavily felt. According to Campo Fraile, more than 300 people trying to flee to Lisbon were arrested and sent to prisons across Spain.

"The Germans controlled the flow of gold [and tungsten] and even lowered the French flag," Campo Fraile revealed.

Rumors of Nazi gold trafficking through Canfranc Station circulated for years, but it wasn't until 2000 that they were confirmed.

Campo Fraile shared with Dinogo Travel that a local bus driver uncovered evidence showing that "86 tons of Nazi gold passed through Canfranc Station between 1942 and 1943."

"We’ve discovered additional documents in European and American archives that confirm over 100 tons of gold passed through this area," he added.

A Thoughtful Renovation

The renewed Canfranc Station seeks to honor its storied past while ushering in a new chapter for both the station and the surrounding region.

María Bellosta, the hotel manager at Canfranc, shared with Dinogo Travel that "great care has been taken with every detail" of the renovation project.

Bellosta emphasized that it was crucial not to "lose any of its character or the immense legacy it carries."

With such a "vast legacy" comes a significant challenge, as Bellosta puts it.

The original 1928 building had to be modernized to meet the standards of a luxury hotel, all while retaining its historical charm.

"We aimed to preserve its essence, its international railway heritage," says Bellosta.

The hotel’s interior design, crafted by Madrid-based design studio ILMIODESIGN, draws inspiration from the 1920s with its fabrics, decor, and staff uniforms. The design also incorporates elements reflecting Canfranc’s historical, cultural, and social legacy, along with its significant role in the 20th century.

The colors and tones used throughout the hotel are designed to evoke the natural beauty of the surrounding mountainous landscape.

The hotel features 104 rooms, including four suites, as well as a wellness area with a pool and three restaurants. The station’s former concourse now serves as the hotel’s reception area.

Hotel guest Thomas O’Hare commended the "elegant" transformation of the station’s concourse into the hotel reception.

"The rooms, bar, and restaurant maintain a modern aesthetic, yet with a strong nod to the station's rich rail history," he says.

O’Hare’s only complaint is the €15 charge per guest to use the hotel pool. Additionally, Canfranc’s spectacular mountainside setting leaves little space for grounds.

He also suggests the hotel could enhance the experience with a display dedicated to Canfranc Station's history, although he notes that the staff are highly knowledgeable on the subject.

A New Chapter

When Canfranc was in ruins, it became a magnet for photographers, both professional and amateur, eager to capture the haunting beauty of the dilapidated station.

Bellosta points out that photographers, after the station’s transformation, will not only have the opportunity to capture its beauty post-restoration but also to stay, dine, and enjoy the experience.

Mayor Sánchez Morales expresses his satisfaction, saying he’s "very happy" with how the hotel reflects "the history of the station and its railway legacy."

"We hope this marks the beginning of Canfranc’s rise as a key tourist destination," he adds.

Report contributed by Rochelle Beighton of Dinogo