A Traditional Palestinian Recipe for Stuffed Grape Leaves

In the U.S., grapes often steal the spotlight, but for Palestinians, grape leaves are equally cherished, as noted by food writer Reem Kassis. While grapes are used in various Palestinian dishes like hosrum (a tangy condiment) and dibs (grape molasses), the leaves are considered more valuable, serving as the essential component of warak dawali, or stuffed grape leaves. During peak season, grape leaves can fetch prices up to five times higher than the grapes themselves.

This dish is part of a rich lineage of both vegetarian and meaty stuffed vegetable recipes that trace back 500 years to the Ottoman Empire. Unlike the short, plump Greek dolmas, warak dawali are elongated and slender, about one centimeter wide. For many Palestinians, especially those in the diaspora, these stuffed leaves embody cultural significance and become a true labor of love for home cooks around the globe.

Grape leaves mark the beginning of the multi-stage harvest in Palestinian vineyards each spring and summer. Unfortunately, this year’s later harvest phases were disrupted by the recent outbreak of conflict between Israel and Hamas. This ongoing strife is deeply intertwined with a history of violence that affects agricultural lands, yet the foods derived from these crops help Palestinians preserve their cultural heritage.

Many Palestinians who cultivate and relish grapes have their own cherished recipes. This particular recipe is inspired by Habib and Minerva Daoud, proprietors of two restaurants in Israel specializing in Galilean cuisine: Kabakeh in Jaffa and Ezba in Rameh.

While the recent conflict between Israel and Hamas has primarily focused on Gaza, violence has also extended to the West Bank, raising concerns about the future of the many Palestinian vineyards located there. Although losing a field, a business, or a cherished recipe pales in comparison to the loss of life, the intertwined land, traditions, and communities of Palestine and Israel are deeply affected by this conflict. Warak dawali may not resolve the violence, but it serves as a recipe that helps Palestinian families uphold their cultural heritage.

Note: Grape leaves are typically in season at the start of summer. Preserved grape leaves are available year-round in the international foods section or at Middle Eastern markets.

Warak Dawali: Vegetarian (Vegan) Stuffed Grape Leaves Recipe

Yields 3 to 4 servings as a main dish or 6 to 8 servings as a side or appetizer

Ingredients:

Approximately 50 grape leaves, either fresh or preserved in brine (about 200 grams) 4 tablespoons olive oil, divided, plus additional for greasing the pot 1 medium onion, diced 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 generous cup medium-grain rice ½ cup finely chopped parsley, tightly packed ¼ cup finely chopped mint, tightly packed ½ cup currants or raisins (currants are preferred for their smaller size and less sweetness, but raisins can substitute) ½ tablespoon table salt 1 teaspoon cinnamon ½ teaspoon black pepper 1-2 medium tomatoes, sliced to ½-inch thickness 2 cups vegetable broth or lightly salted water, plus more as needed ⅓ cup lemon juice (from 1-2 lemons)

Instructions:

Step 1: Prepare the grape leaves: If using fresh grape leaves, blanch them in simmering water for 5 minutes. For preserved leaves, carefully take them out of the jar, discarding the liquid, and place them in a large bowl. If the leaves are stacked with stems aligned, trim the stems as noted in step 3. Fill the bowl with water, swirl the leaves to wash off the brine, and separate them gently to avoid tearing. Drain the water and repeat the rinsing process. Finally, soak the leaves in room temperature water for 15 minutes.

Step 2: While the leaves are soaking, prepare the filling. In a medium sauté pan, heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil over medium-high heat and sauté the diced onion until soft and translucent, about 5 to 7 minutes. Add the minced garlic and cook, stirring for another 30 seconds until aromatic.

Step 3: In a medium bowl, mix the sautéed onions and garlic with the dry rice, the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil, parsley, mint, currants (or raisins), salt, cinnamon, and black pepper.

Step 4: Once the grape leaves have finished soaking, drain them and use scissors to carefully trim the short stems as close to the leaf as possible without damaging the leaf itself. Set aside any torn leaves to line the bottom of the pot where you will cook the grape leaves.

Step 5: Lightly coat the bottom and sides of a 4- to 6-quart pot with olive oil. Layer 5-10 grape leaves on the bottom, utilizing any torn leaves. Then, arrange the sliced tomatoes evenly across the base of the pot.

Step 6: To roll the grape leaves, position a leaf on your work surface with the vein side facing up and the stem end closest to you. Use about 1 teaspoon of filling for each medium-sized leaf (approximately 5 inches in diameter). Adjust the amount of filling based on the size of the leaf, but avoid overfilling, as the rice will expand during cooking. In Palestine, stuffed grape leaves are rolled long and thin—about one centimeter in diameter—unlike the shorter, thicker Greek dolmas.

Step 7: Place the rice mixture in a thin line along the base of the leaf, leaving space around the edges. Roll it up like a small burrito: fold the sides over the filling, then roll away from you, tucking the sides in as you go. Be careful not to roll too tightly so that the rice has room to expand while cooking.

Step 8: Arrange the rolled grape leaves in the pot, seam side down, either in a circular pattern or in rows side by side.

Step 9: To prevent the grape leaves from floating while cooking, place a small plate on top of them. Then, pour in the broth or salted water and lemon juice until the liquid reaches the level of the plate.

Step 10: Cover the pot with a lid and heat on medium-high until it comes to a boil. Then lower the heat to a simmer and cook for 45 to 60 minutes, or until the liquid is absorbed and the rice is tender when you test a grape leaf.

Step 11: After cooking, let the pot rest for 30 minutes before serving. To transfer the grape leaves to a platter, place a large plate over the pot. Hold the plate against the pot with one hand and use the other hand to support the bottom of the pot (make sure to use pot holders). Quickly invert the pot so that the grape leaves land on the serving plate. If there’s still liquid left, you can serve the grape leaves directly from the pot with tongs.

Step 12: Remove the grape leaves used to line the pot and serve alongside mezze dips and spreads such as tzatziki, labneh, tahini, and hummus. The stuffed grape leaves can also be prepared in advance and enjoyed at room temperature.

Adam Sella is a journalist based in Tel Aviv, covering topics related to Israel and Palestine, including food, the environment, and conflict.Dina Ávila is a photographer based in Portland, Oregon.Recipe tested by Ivy Manning