A whimsical reverie filled with stunning experiences: My fascination with the new NoMad London hotel

My first trip to London occurred when I was just 21.

It was just before my final year in college, during a summer study abroad program that became one of the highlights of my academic journey. I relished reading British literature in the city's parks and gardens, exploring numerous free museums and galleries, meandering through Spitalfields, and indulging in free samples at Borough Market.

Given my tight budget, I often made meals of hummus and vegetables from Tesco, and I found myself dining on the 99p McDonald's menu more than I ever had back home in the U.S. My roommate and I resided in a stark, fluorescent-lit student dormitory.

When I returned to London in November after several years, eager to visit the TPG U.K. office, I was thrilled to experience a much more luxurious side of the city. Choosing where to stay was easy: The NoMad London, the boutique brand's first international location, which opened in May 2021, was the clear choice for my four-night visit.

The NoMad hotel brand made its debut in New York City just a year before I relocated there, and it has since expanded to other U.S. cities like Los Angeles and Las Vegas. I have cherished memories of the New York location, which served as a vibrant hub of the city's social life until it permanently closed just as the London property was set to open.

Even across the pond, the new NoMad hotel firmly embraces its New York City heritage, capturing the dynamic energy shared between the two cities.

The hospitality group behind NoMad, Sydell Group, is actively exploring this connection by introducing The Ned, an exclusive hotel and members' club in London, to New York City when the former NoMad location reopens as The Ned NoMad later this year.

It's clear why The NoMad London would be the perfect pick for a New Yorker visiting the London office.

How to get there

The NoMad London is ideally situated on Bow Street in the Covent Garden area of the West End. It takes about 40 minutes to drive from London Heathrow (LHR), but the Tube offers a convenient alternative. Upon my arrival at Heathrow, I descended to the Underground, hopped on the Piccadilly line, and rode it directly to Covent Garden station, just a three-minute stroll from the hotel. The fare ranges from £5.30 to £3.30, or roughly $7 to $4.50, depending on the time and day.

While my TPG U.K. colleagues suggested I take the Heathrow Express (priced around £5.50 or $7.50 if booked in advance, potentially rising to £25 or $34 for last-minute purchases), I prefer the direct route when traveling with luggage.

Reservation information

I secured my reservation at the NoMad London via the Chase Travel Portal, utilizing my Chase Sapphire Preferred Card to rack up bonus Ultimate Rewards points on my rather pricey stay ($424 per night). Given that this is a relatively recent addition to the scene and not affiliated with any major hotel loyalty programs, there aren't many options for redeeming points here. I have a hunch that, similar to its counterpart, the NoMad Los Angeles, it will soon become part of The Hotel Collection by American Express.

If (or, more likely when) that occurs, you could reserve with an eligible Amex card and enjoy perks akin to elite status during your visit, such as an on-site credit and a room upgrade upon arrival, subject to availability. Just a heads-up, you'll need to book at least two nights to benefit from such offers.

Key Features

• I still can't get over the NoMad in New York, often reminiscing about chef Daniel Humm's exquisitely elegant butter-dipped radishes (there are numerous articles dedicated to this seemingly simple dish online). So, it’s no surprise I adored the crudites at the hotel's namesake restaurant, served with herbed creme fraiche and — as expected, radishes.
• A library that feels like it belongs in a boudoir photoshoot or a private jazz lounge, featuring red velvet and leather decor alongside shelves filled with literature that would fall somewhere between highbrow and brilliant on The New Yorker's "Approval Matrix."
• Top-notch amenities, including a custom NoMad hand sanitizer in a travel-friendly spray bottle, Babyliss styling tools, and sturdy wood-handled umbrellas for those famously drizzly London days.

Drawbacks

• As is often the case with high-design hotels, a few aspects left me puzzled. I’m somewhat embarrassed to admit this, but I attempted to reach the front desk using the in-room rotary phone before ultimately giving up and making my way downstairs instead (I’ll just blame jet lag and my millennial tendencies for that one). The push-button light switches were also not the most user-friendly — it consistently took me a while to figure out which lights to switch on or off.
• The entire hotel has a somewhat dim atmosphere. It creates a certain vibe, but even in my room, the lighting was a bit challenging. As I headed out for work around 9 a.m., I felt as though the NoMad hotel was perpetually caught in the pre-cocktail hour ambiance.
• Nothing about the NoMad London comes at a bargain. A straightforward Americano with breakfast will run you £4, which doesn’t seem too outrageous until you consider the exchange rate. Suddenly, your morning coffee is nearly $6.

The atmosphere

Within the hotel, housed in the former Bow Street Magistrates' Court and Police Station from the 19th century, guests encounter a thoughtfully crafted moody ambiance: dark lacquered woods, rich jewel-toned velvets, and deep oxblood leather. This hotel doesn’t shy away from boldness, presenting a dreamlike tableau of tassels, brocades, Carrara marble, and hand-painted wallpaper. Just lock me in and toss away the key, please!

A generous touch of greenery and whimsical botanical prints injects a playful spirit and prevents the hotel from becoming overly formal.

As I meandered through the hotel, I frequently came across what seemed to be significant business discussions taking place in chic sitting areas or spotted an exquisitely dressed couple enjoying a meal in a cozy corner of the library. I wouldn't have been the least bit surprised to see Oscar Wilde lounging at the bar, draped in fur lapels and silk stockings, eloquently discussing the value of art and romance amidst dramatic gestures of his fashionable cape.

The accommodation

My entry-level "Classic" king room was so generous in size that I genuinely believed I had been upgraded to a higher category (though I was assured I had not, I still find it hard to believe). With just a single window facing the atrium, the room was dim, but this suited the hotel's overall serious vibe. Soft lighting and delicate touches prevented the space from feeling overly somber.

My attention was immediately captured by the cozy sitting area at the foot of the bed: sapphire velvet and damask-patterned club chairs (like a settee split in two) flanking a coffee table and facing a decorative fireplace designed to resemble the marbled endpaper found in a first edition of "Dorian Gray."

At the in-room bar, I found a small platter of fresh fruit alongside a Nespresso machine, as well as stylish glassware in case you felt inclined to indulge in one of the premium minibar offerings (including bottles of premixed Negroni with Beefeater gin, Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut, and Jax Coco coconut water, not to mention a more casual selection of standard M&Ms and cans of RedBull).

If you know me, you’ll understand that I’m a complete enthusiast for hotel bathrooms. Double doors opened to unveil a dazzling mosaic-tiled bathroom featuring a separate walk-in shower and toilet room. It was a masterclass in detail, complete with gold fixtures, white marble, Argan Oil bath products, and heavy glass water goblets. Some suites even boast freestanding soaking tubs.

Returning to my room at night felt like stepping into an alternate reality. I could envision a version of myself who never departed London all those years ago, discovering a stunning flat in the heart of the city and adorning the bedroom walls with Ellsworth Kelly lithographs. Of course, that's not how things transpired, but at the NoMad hotel, it’s effortless to feel like you’re gliding through a beautifully curated dream.

Food and Beverage

One evening, my colleagues and I gathered for dinner at the NoMad's primary restaurant, where we enjoyed a variety of cocktails, appetizers, and main dishes. By day, the multilevel atrium restaurant was flooded with natural light, evoking a greenhouse ambiance with its chartreuse banquettes and trailing greenery along the colonnade. When night fell, the atmosphere shifted dramatically: candlelight danced on the white marble tables, which showcased plates of pan-roasted cod with fried mussels (£32, or $44), oysters on the half shell with frozen cucumber (£20, or $27 for a half dozen), and suckling pig (£39, or $53) accompanied by smoked carrots (£9, or $12).

Every dish was expertly crafted (the cod, typically a rather unremarkable fish, had the luscious texture of warm butter). In terms of flavor, everything I tasted was relatively mild. Nothing blew me away, yet I still polished off every plate without hesitation.

The cocktails were quite good, if somewhat simplistic: I opted for a Walter Gibson (£16, or $22) from the NoMad Classics menu. While it included some of my favorite elements (dry gin, pickled vegetables, and vodka), I found that certain other ingredients made it overly sweet for my taste.

I much preferred the after-dinner drinks at the Mexican-inspired Side Hustle bar, where a few of us indulged in theatrical tequila Mai Tais (£20, or $27) served in hefty skull-shaped glassware adorned with fruit slices and a decorative rosette of pineapple leaves. The vibe was energetic with just the right amount of liveliness.

Guests can also savor breakfast, lunch, and drinks throughout the day at the Library, conveniently situated off the lobby.

You quickly get accustomed to the perks on a work trip when you can order avocado toast topped with sunflower seeds, Aleppo pepper, a poached egg, smoked salmon, and — of course — those delightful translucent slices of radishes (starting at £16, or $22). I complemented my breakfast with a glass of orange juice, a fresh fruit side, and an iced Americano.

And since I wouldn't be an American in London without at least one language blunder, I ordered late-night room service one evening (a Bibb lettuce salad paired with rosemary and lemon chips) only to be pleasantly surprised by a tower of French fries on the tray. It was a delightful mistake, as we can all agree that fries are far superior to chips.

Amenities and Services

One of my favorite aspects of the former NoMad hotel in New York, now magnificently revived in London, is its cozy, lavish library that boasts an unusual level of allure for a collection of books. If a bordello were to double as a library, it might very well resemble the Library at the NoMad London.

The shelves are brimming with intellectually stimulating texts covering a vast array of subjects (art, architecture, cuisine, and pop culture), including "The Landmarks of New York" positioned a few spines away from British artist Sue Webster's Künstlerroman, "I Was a Teenage Banshee," and well-loved Agatha Christie novels sitting opposite titles like "New York Cult Recipes" and "Must Eat NYC."

The hotel features a basement gym equipped with free weights, a few treadmills, and a single Peloton bike, along with a partnership with Ricari Studios and de Mamiel for wellness treatments like sculpting facials and a rather intense-sounding body remodeling session.

Even though the NoMad hotel exudes the charm of an HBO drama about Oscar Wilde's romantic escapades, the service is anything but stuffy or Victorian. The staff were all warm, friendly, and eager to help, from the porter who quickly learned my routine (and when I deviated from it) to the restaurant team who promptly called my room to fulfill my last-minute reservation request.

Exploring the area

The NoMad London hotel is just a stone's throw from Covent Garden Market, several major Underground stations, and directly across from the Royal Opera House — you’re likely close to all the attractions you desire. I found it quite convenient to wake up in the morning and stop by a Boots convenience store or one of the many cafes on my way to the WeWork Aviation House in Holborn.

For transportation enthusiasts and history buffs, the London Transport Museum offers fascinating exhibitions on early 20th-century double-decker electric trams and the infamous "knifeboard" horse-drawn buses that served London from 1875 to 1895.

You can enjoy dinner at the Covent Garden location of Dishoom (be sure to order the black dahl) and then grab a pint (and maybe play a round of Trivial Pursuit) at the nearby Bow Street Tavern.

Accessibility

The NoMad London isn’t the most straightforward hotel when it comes to accessibility: there are quite a few stairs, including three steps from the reception area to the main lobby. However, an accessible lift is available. While the dining areas are accessible, they may pose some challenges for navigation. The hotel’s website effectively outlines what travelers can expect, providing details from the height of the tables in the Library to the number of steps guests will encounter.

Checking Out

The NoMad London is a dreamscape filled with stunning elements: the decor is anything but understated, showcasing a vibrant palette of colors and textures. The historic building imbues a distinctly British charm, yet guests are clearly whisked away to a realm uniquely crafted by the brand.

If it weren't for the cost, I could easily envision returning here for every future trip to London, if only for the exclusive access to the Library, which is reserved solely for guests.