Abu Dhabi's most sought-after getaway: Qasr Al Sarab meets the vast desert expanse

Within the luxurious grounds of Qasr Al Sarab, indulge in everything you’d expect from a premium UAE resort—opulent villas, private swimming pools, gourmet restaurants, and an exquisite spa.

Outside the hotel, one thing stands out—an awe-inspiring expanse of pristine emptiness, unlike anywhere else.

This is because the Qasr is located on the edge of the world—or at least the edge of the Empty Quarter, Rub' al Khali, the largest continuous stretch of sand desert on the planet.

Walk beyond the Royal Pavilion and head south: endless miles of ever-shifting dunes, stretching to a distant highway and the border fence marking the start of Saudi Arabia.

It’s the isolation and the captivating beauty of this sun-blasted wilderness that elevate Qasr Al Sarab to one of Abu Dhabi's top hotels, in a city brimming with five-star options.

Running this remote outpost comes with its own set of challenges, primarily how to prevent the encroaching desert from overtaking the resort.

And equally important, how to preserve the delicate environment that makes this place truly unique.

A shimmering mirage

Qasr Al Sarab was originally envisioned as a peaceful retreat from the bustle of the UAE’s rapidly expanding cities, offering guests an opportunity to immerse themselves in the timeless desert landscape.

Construction began in 2007, with a fortress-like design emerging on the edge of dunes, which were beautifully tinged with shades of red and green from iron and copper particles.

The completed resort, featuring 154 rooms and 52 villas spread across 19,000+ acres, rises from the desert like a shimmering vision—a perfect match for its name, "mirage."

However, as Amer Braik, who oversees the resort’s environmental and cultural operations, notes, no one has ever confused the Qasr for a mirage in the eight years since it opened.

Obviously, no one has mistaken the resort for a mirage. Aside from the occasional Bedouin passing by, the only people making the trek out here are those arriving to stay or work at the resort.

Unless guests have access to a helicopter—such as UAE President Sheikh Khalifa bin Zayed Al Nahyan, who owns a villa here—it's a lengthy two-hour drive to the resort.

This long journey makes the arrival even more thrilling, as guests cross a bridge illuminated by lanterns and pass through a grand, turreted entrance.

Within the resort, electric golf carts transport luggage and guests to rooms and villas with stunning sunset views, scattered across seven kilometers of winding pathways.

The heart of the Qasr resembles a desert palace, particularly striking when lit up at night. During the day, shaded walkways, lush greenery, and cool, flowing water channels provide relief from the midday heat.

At the heart of the resort is a series of palm-lined pools, designed to evoke the tranquil beauty of a desert oasis.

The resort also features a variety of dining options, including one where guests dine in a Bedouin-style camp, lounging on cushions under the stars while a traditional musician plays on a nearby dune.

All of this is incredibly relaxing—until you start thinking about the immense effort required to keep this oasis from being swallowed by the ever-encroaching desert.

A sea of shifting sand

The vast sea of sand just beyond the pools is in constant motion. North-south winds perpetually reshape the dunes, creating an ever-changing landscape.

Several times each year, the winds intensify into full-blown sandstorms, with gusts reaching 50 mph, enveloping the resort in dense clouds of sand. It’s during these storms that the Qasr’s location presents its greatest challenges.

The hotel was designed using advanced wind modeling techniques to mitigate the impact of these extreme conditions, and it’s fully equipped for the necessary clean-up efforts.

"We use large bulldozers and machinery that work continuously to shift sand and clear designated areas," says Braik.

However, heavy machinery can’t assist with the meticulous task of removing sand from not just the main pool, but also the 60-plus private pools surrounding the individual villas.

Then there’s the delicate job of clearing the manicured lawns and flowerbeds, ensuring they remain pristine despite the encroaching sand.

Despite the harsh desert conditions, the Qasr remains immaculate. After eight years of operation, it still looks pristine and continues to be a sought-after venue for glossy magazine photoshoots, as well as weddings, honeymoons, and romantic escapes.

However, there are other challenges to contend with, such as finding staff to operate a hotel in the middle of the desert.

"Recruitment can be tricky," says Braik. To ease this, the resort provides recreational amenities in the staff village, where most of the expatriate employees live. Additionally, city day trips are organized for the staff.

"Over time, the hotel’s reputation has grown, and now it’s a highly attractive place for people to work," he adds.

A mysterious fog

Despite the ongoing battle with the desert, the Qasr is committed to preserving its environment, especially important in a region that is a designated natural reserve.

Water is either recycled or carefully pumped in to avoid draining the region’s delicate aquifers. Additionally, the resort runs a breeding program to reintroduce Arabian oryx antelope to their natural habitat.

Guests are invited to immerse themselves in the desert landscape through various activities, including camel treks, desert walks, sandboarding, and falconry.

A thrilling dawn ride on fat-tire bikes, when the sands are sometimes cloaked in an eerie fog, offers an unforgettable opportunity to traverse the dunes and experience the quiet solitude of the desert.

For those seeking more excitement, dune-ing trips in the hotel's powerful Toyota 4x4s provide a noisy, yet exhilarating, adventure, ending with a sunset tea atop a dune as the sun sets over the dusty landscape.

To ensure maximum traction, the vehicle tires are deflated from 30 to 14 psi, allowing them to grip the sand as they race over steep drops that leave guests' stomachs in knots.

The skilled drivers are experts at preventing their 4x4s from rolling or becoming stuck in the sand. They follow designated routes to minimize disruption to the local wildlife.

They also know when to make a stop to avoid unsettling a guest who might be struggling to keep their lunch down, thus sparing the upholstery from any unpleasant surprises.

"We can tell when someone's about to lose their lunch," laughs one of the drivers, Shalika. "We always manage to stop just in time."

According to Braik, some guests still have concerns about venturing beyond the safety of the hotel’s walls.

"I often get asked if it’s dangerous to walk on the sand," he says. "Guests worry about scorpions and snakes, but it's actually very safe."

That said, it’s always a good idea to explore the desert with a guide.

Staff recall a call from one group of guests who got lost after heading toward Saudi Arabia and had to be rescued.

"They told us, 'we’re by the big sand dune.' Well, take a look around—you could be standing next to any dune in this vast place."

An endless expanse of pure, breathtaking nothingness.

Qasr al Sarab Desert Resort by Anantara, 1 Qasr Al Sarab Road, Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates; +971 2 886 2088