An Introductory Guide to Genoa

Many travelers use Genoa as a gateway to the stunning Italian Riviera, including the popular (and often crowded) Portofino and Cinque Terre. However, rushing through this charming city would be a mistake.

Boasting one of the largest medieval town centers globally, filled with caruggi (narrow alleys) waiting to be explored, Genoa is ideal for those who enjoy wandering and discovering. Put your phone away and see where the winding paths lead you—whether it’s to the lively port, a 6th-century cathedral, a bustling square, or even back to where you began.

My guide, Cristiana Mondo, describes Genoa as a 'northern city with a southern lifestyle.' The rhythm of life—and walking pace—is notably relaxed and enjoyable. Shops often close for lunch, allowing locals to savor their meals, while dinner can be served as late as 10pm. Take a moment, slow down, and join the Genoese in their leisurely strolls.

When is the best time to visit Genoa?

Genoa's northern climate begins to warm up in May, but it seldom experiences the intense heat waves that have become more prevalent in southern Europe; average temperatures in July and August typically reach 28°C (82°F).

The peak time to visit Genoa is during the Rolli Days when the Palazzi dei Rolli open their doors to the public. These weekends, occurring twice a year, see the city bustling with visitors eager to explore the famous palazzos (palaces). Many of these lavishly decorated buildings are privately owned and are not accessible to the public at other times of the year.

Genoa features a busy cruise port, with its season running from April to October. Sundays can be particularly crowded, as it’s the most popular day for cruise ships to arrive, but the crowds typically start to thin out after 4pm.

How much time should I spend in Genoa?

Plan to spend at least two days to thoroughly explore the historic center—visit the main museums, meander through the winding caruggi, check out the independent shops, and enjoy leisurely aperitivos at friendly Ligurian restaurants.

However, the boundaries of Genoa extend well beyond the old town. With four days, you can take a train to the suburb of Pegli to discover the enchanting Villa Durazzo Pallavicini Park, whose garden is designed to reflect an operatic journey of purification akin to Dante’s Divine Comedy (not to be confused with Villa Durazzo in Santa Margherita).

Alternatively, visit Nervi, where a beachside promenade allows you to enjoy the waves and cliffs away from the crowds; here, you’ll find locals strolling in the sun, savoring slices of focaccia. You can also explore the botanical gardens of Parchi di Nervi or the Galleria d’Arte Moderna for some respite from the sun.

How easy is it to reach and travel around Genoa?

Genoa boasts its own airport, located just a 20-minute drive or a 30-minute bus ride from the city center. The airport is compact and user-friendly, allowing visitors to move quickly upon arrival. There are regular train services connecting to many major Italian cities (Milan is under 2 hours away), along with links to Nice and Marseille.

For those seeking a more eco-friendly travel option, the city features a bustling port with direct ferry routes to Barcelona, Sardinia, Sicily, Corsica, Malta, Tunisia, and even Tangier. It also serves as a popular stop (and departure point) for many large cruise ships.

The old town is highly walkable and best explored on foot, inviting a sense of adventure and the willingness to get lost among its narrow lanes. Be prepared for some steep areas, so good walking shoes are essential. Taxis are available if you require transportation.

For exploring other parts of the city, there are reliable bus connections, and you can purchase tickets for buses, the metro, or funiculars in advance using the AMT Genova app. Don't miss the chance to ride one of the free public elevators – the Ascensore di Castelletto Levante offers breathtaking views at the top, while the Ascensore Castello d'Albertis-Montegalletto transforms from a funicular into an elevator.

Must-see attractions in Genoa

Experience art, music, and aperitivos in the palazzos

Genoa’s many palazzos are a cultural treasure. This UNESCO World Heritage site features 42 buildings, ensuring something for every visitor. Inside the renowned red walls of Palazzo Rosso, you'll find an art gallery showcasing several portraits by Van Dyck. Be sure to visit the charming, frescoed 'alcove apartment,' recently reopened after 40 years, as well as the top-floor apartment celebrated for its mid-century design, which also hosts occasional concerts, much like Palazzo Ducale.

Palazzo Bianco serves as another prestigious museum, covering European art from the 12th to the 18th century. It features works by Caravaggio and Rubens, with significant connections to Flemish and Dutch artists from the 15th to the 17th century, alongside a notable collection of works by Genoese artists such as Bernardo Strozzi, Giovanni Benedetto Castiglione, and Luca Cambiaso.

For a unique experience, visit Les Rouges Cucina & Cocktails located in Palazzo Imperiale for an aperitivo beneath stunning ceiling reliefs.

Explore the historic shopping scene

Genoa's caruggi are lined with distinctive independent shops, many of which boast historical significance. The city keeps a registry of botteghe storiche, which includes establishments that have been in operation for at least 70 years, with the oldest dating back to 1650.

Fashion enthusiasts will appreciate the classic luxury offered by Pescetto, a family-owned store that opened in 1899. The vintage shop upstairs features high-quality items from as far back as the 1940s, and the silk scarves adorning the window are sure to tempt you.

Make sure to visit Romanengo 1780, Italy’s oldest confectionery shop. Even if sweets aren’t your thing, the vibrant array of handmade treats displayed under glass counters is a sight to behold. Many are still crafted by hand and infused with fruity or floral flavors.

The historical shops offer more than just beautiful souvenirs; they also include barbers, butchers, and pharmacies. Explore the themed itineraries online or watch for signs as you navigate the old town.

Trek to ancient forts and Roman aqueducts

The fortifications that encircle Genoa are the longest in Europe. From certain peaks, you can enjoy views of the pre-Alps on one side and the sea on the other. For a more relaxed experience, consider walking along a 2nd-century Roman aqueduct starting from Cavassolo and returning towards the town, which leads you near Staglieno Cemetery.

Wander through Porto Antico

This lively port is a center of local life, especially as the cruise ships sail away in the evening. You’ll find numerous restaurants and scenic spots by the water for an aperitivo. Visit Eataly, which features both a restaurant and a gourmet grocery store, and don’t miss the elevator ride for a stunning view of the port from above. If you're looking to save money, grab a slice of focaccia and enjoy the sunset.

My top activity in Genoa

Dedicate at least half a day to the remarkable Monumental Cemetery of Staglieno. Renowned for its eerily lifelike sculptures on the tombs of 19th-century elites, it offers a unique blend of art and memorialization. You might recognize the Appiani family tomb from the cover of Joy Division’s Closer, but I was particularly moved by the hyper-realistic statue of Caterina Campodonico, a street vendor who saved her earnings to create her own memorial among the city's elite.

Beyond the well-known corridor galleries, there are many other intriguing graves to discover, including Constance Wilde, wife of Oscar Wilde, who passed away in Genoa in 1898. The tourist office offers a booklet about the cemetery, which includes a helpful self-guided walking tour with context and directions for solo visitors.

Must-try dishes in Genoa

Pesto is a staple and likely the finest you'll ever taste. Many restaurants offer their own handmade jars for sale, or you can find delectable varieties at Mercato Orientale, a vibrant food market brimming with local products. If you're keen to make your own (it’s surprisingly simple, I promise), consider booking a workshop at Creattivando and unleash your creativity in a kitchen set in the exquisite Palazzo Imperiale.

Focaccia is another beloved local treat, with many kiosks serving takeaway slices perfect for enjoying on the move while people-watching. Another excellent street food choice is farinata, a crispy, light snack made from chickpea flour.

Essential dining spots in Genoa

Il Genovese: This charming and authentic Ligurian restaurant is managed by dedicated chefs and was featured in Stanley Tucci’s Searching for Italy.

20 Tre Restaurant: A blend of local dishes and creative cuisine presented with an artistic touch.

Trattoria Rosmarino: A local gem, their hazelnut sauce pasta is worthy of a second helping.

Cremeria Buonafede: A takeaway caffeteria focused on ice cream. Don't miss the panera, a coffee-flavored semifreddo (soft ice cream with a mousse-like texture).

Outdoor dining isn't as prevalent in Genoa compared to other Mediterranean cities, though it's gaining traction.

Where to stay in Genoa

Experiencing a stay in the old town can be delightful, but it's wise to steer clear of dark, deserted alleyways at night if you're unfamiliar with the area. Your accommodation can advise you on the safest routes after dark. The shopping street XX Settembre offers numerous lodging options to fit various budgets.

Hostels are relatively rare in Genoa, making self-catering apartments or hotels your best options. For a distinctive Genoese experience, consider staying in one of the former palazzos. I enjoyed my stay at Hotel Palazzo Grillo, which features modern, minimalist design alongside beautifully restored 16th-century elements, located just minutes from Porto Antico and Via Garibaldi. Other popular palazzo hotels include Locanda di Palazzo Cicala and Palazzo Zecchino.

Typical expenses in Genoa

• Hostel dormitory: €38-44
• Standard double room: €120-170
• Self-catering apartment (including Airbnb): €90-170
• Bus fare: €1.50
• Espresso coffee: €1.20
• To-go slice of focaccia: €2
• Aperitivo cocktail: €7-10
• Dinner for two (2 main courses and a bottle of wine): €65-90

AnneMarie explored Genoa at the invitation of Visit Genoa. Contributors at Dinogo Planet do not accept complimentary services in exchange for favorable reviews.