An Introductory Guide to the San Juan Islands, Washington

If you're seeking a tranquil escape from the fast pace of modern life, it's time to plan your trip to the San Juan Islands. This charming, scattered archipelago features sustainable farms and inviting B&Bs, where life has remained unchanged since the 1950s.

Serenity, nature, and a slower pace of life are the main attractions for visitors. In these relaxed yet industrious rural communities, drivers greet each other with friendly waves, and you can safely leave your bike outside the grocery store without worry.

Don’t come expecting shopping malls or vibrant nightlife; instead, embrace kayaking, whale watching, beachcombing, sailing, clamming, and expertly crafted farm-to-table dishes paired with local wines. Prepare to feel worlds away while still vacationing in the continental U.S.

When is the ideal time to visit the San Juan Islands?

Nestled in the Puget Sound between northwest Washington and Canada’s Vancouver Island, the San Juans enjoy a relatively mild climate throughout the year. The prime time to visit for dry, sunny, and warm weather is from May to September, when most businesses are operational and outdoor activities like kayaking and cycling are at their best. However, this is also when the islands experience the highest visitor numbers.

To sidestep the crowds while still basking in pleasant weather, consider visiting in September after the Labor Day weekend.

The wettest seasons are fall and winter, though heavy snowfall and freezing temperatures are uncommon. You'll find lower accommodation rates during the off-season, with only a brief increase around Christmas and New Year.

Is reaching and navigating the San Juan Islands straightforward?

To get to the islands, you have two main options: by air or by boat. The ferry is the most favored choice, with a scenic journey starting from the port of Anacortes, just a 90-minute drive north of Seattle. Over 170 islands make up the archipelago, and regular car ferries connect the largest four: Lopez, Shaw, Orcas, and San Juan Island.

The primary islands – Lopez, San Juan, and Orcas – are small enough for cycling, with bike rental shops available. Seasonal shuttle buses operate between May and September on San Juan Island and Orcas, linking ferry terminals to major attractions. Many visitors prefer to bring their own vehicles for added convenience.

Regular flights are available via small planes and seaplanes connecting the San Juan Islands with Seattle, Anacortes, and Bellingham. The closest major international airport is Seattle-Tacoma International Airport (SeaTac).

How to choose the ideal San Juan island for your visit

San Juan Island: ideal for history enthusiasts

Discover the location of one of America’s most surprising and obscure diplomatic conflicts.

The San Juan Islands gained brief notoriety in 1859 during the so-called Pig War, a border dispute between the British and Americans that nearly escalated into full-blown warfare. This incident, which resulted in the unfortunate shooting of a pig by an overly zealous American farmer, prompted the construction of two military outposts on San Juan Island to oversee the unclear border between the US and Canada.

Today, British Camp and American Camp remain on opposite sides of the island, now part of a scenic national historical park, serving as reminders of a conflict that – thankfully – never transpired. Visitors can explore old barracks, informative panels, and park rangers who share the island's intriguing history.

San Juan Island is also celebrated for its wineries, cideries, and artisanal farms cultivating a variety of produce, from lavender to alpacas.

Lopez Island: perfect for cycling enthusiasts

Featuring flat landscapes, quiet country roads, and courteous drivers, Lopez is a cyclist's paradise. Leave the car behind (or at least stash it at the Anacortes ferry terminal) and embrace a Dutch-style biking experience.

Spanning 30 square miles with a population under 3,000, Lopez is characterized by sun-kissed fields, charming wooden barns, winding beaches, and whispering forests. With no highways or traffic lights to navigate, it's truly a cyclist’s haven. In fact, it's uncommon to see cars exceeding 45 mph.

Lopez Bicycle Works in the village offers a wide range of bike rentals from May to September. This is also the go-to spot for arranging fishing charters and kayaking adventures. The island is famous for its pebbly beaches, where playful seals often frolic.

Orcas Island: ideal for kayaking enthusiasts

As the most rugged of the three main San Juan Islands, Orcas boasts a jagged coastline filled with bluffs, bays, and scattered islets, making it a prime destination for kayakers. Stay near the shore, where you can paddle through clear, sheltered waters surrounded by lush, mossy temperate rainforests. Keep an eye out for seals, eagles, and possibly an orca in the distance.

If venturing far from the coast makes you uneasy, consider joining an organized excursion. Shearwater Adventures on Orcas is renowned as one of the best kayaking schools in the state, offering tours and lessons.

Orcas Island features a large state park with a recreational lake, multiple campgrounds, and 38 miles of hiking trails. Nearby, you'll find the archipelago's most famous hotel, the historic 1906 Rosario Resort & Spa, which includes its own museum.

What is the budget required for visiting the San Juan Islands?

Although the islands are known as a retreat for wealthy yacht owners, they offer a range of options that accommodate various budgets.

While you won't find any Walmarts or discount shopping centers, you will discover reasonably priced bakeries and delis, providing enough ingredients to create a delightful picnic.

Budget-conscious travelers can stay at a hostel in Friday Harbor on San Juan Island, and camping is available on all four ferry-accessible islands. Several smaller paddle-in islands also offer primitive camping, accessible by private boat or kayak. All campgrounds feature tent sites, with some larger locations providing full-utility sites for RVs.

While the wealthier visitors navigate the islands by private boat, the general public relies on Washington State Ferries, which have impressively low fares, especially if you opt not to bring a vehicle.

How many days should I spend in the San Juan Islands?

It’s advisable to spend at least three days, or more if you wish to fully explore all three main islands.

Are there any towns located on the islands?

The primary town in the archipelago is Friday Harbor on San Juan Island, home to about 2,000 residents. Eastsound on Orcas and Lopez Village on Lopez serve as civic and commercial centers, featuring shops, dining options, and places to stay.

Are there bears inhabiting the San Juan Islands?

There is no resident bear population. Occasionally, a solitary black bear may swim over from Vancouver Island or the mainland, but they are typically captured and relocated.

Is Shaw Island worth visiting?

Shaw is the smallest of the four islands accessible by public ferries. It offers an 11-site campground and just one general store for food. With a few beaches and a small network of peaceful roads, it's ideal for a leisurely bike ride, but you might prefer the larger islands for more activities.

Which island is the largest?

Orcas Island is the largest, measuring 57 square miles, while San Juan Island is slightly smaller at 55 square miles. However, San Juan Island has a larger population, with nearly 9,000 residents compared to Orcas' 6,000.

Which island offers the best hiking opportunities?

Orcas Island, thanks to the expansive 5,000-acre Moran State Park, boasts a wealth of trails that traverse the archipelago's most rugged landscapes, including the towering 2,407-foot Mt. Constitution.

What local dishes should I try?

Shellfish is the hallmark cuisine of the archipelago, especially the locally harvested razor clams, crab, oysters, and scallops. Also prominent are two Pacific Northwest favorites, halibut and salmon, both of which have been fished since pre-Columbian times. If seafood isn't your preference, the islanders also raise their own cows, pigs, and sheep, with Lopez Island lamb being a standout in local dining.

What are the top water activities?

Whale watching is a major attraction, with orca sightings nearly guaranteed from May to October. There’s even a good chance to see orcas from the shores of San Juan Island's Lime Kiln Point State Park. Additionally, whale-watching tours can be arranged from both Orcas and San Juan Island. Humpback, minke, and gray whales also frequent the area.

All three islands provide kayak rentals and guided tours. More skilled kayakers can explore the Cascadia Marine Trail (CMT), a 160-mile route for sailing and paddling that includes the San Juans. Many of the more secluded islands along the trail feature basic CMT campsites with landing spots, picnic tables, and compost toilets, all marked by official CMT signs.

Are there any leisurely activities available?

San Juan Island features a whale museum, an art gallery, a general museum, and a winery with a tasting room. Orcas, Shaw, and Lopez islands all boast small historical museums, while The Rosario Resort on Orcas offers a charming spa.

My top activity in the San Juan Islands

The San Juans serve as my go-to destination for 'active relaxation,' allowing me to disconnect from global news and social media in favor of exploring tranquil backroads and tree-lined coastlines.

If I could encapsulate one experience, it would likely be the brisk 10-mile bike ride from Eastsound village to the summit of Mt Constitution on Orcas Island. The route showcases farmland, forests, shorelines, lakes, and mountains as I ascend to the highest point in the San Juans. I conclude my ride by climbing the observation tower at the top, where breathtaking views stretch for miles over the azure waters. With superhuman sight, I could even spot my house across the border in Canada.

Daily expenses

• Standard room for two during peak season: $190

• Campsites: tent/RV $15/45

• Ferry fare with/without vehicle: $45.85/15.85

• Bicycle/e-bike rental per day: $40/70

• Coffee: $0–4.50

• Sandwich: $8–13

• Dinner for two: $80–100

• Beer/pint at the pub: $6–8