Barcelona’s Vermouth Tradition: The Art of Day Drinking
In Spain, vermouth represents more than just a drink — it embodies a lifestyle. While a refreshing glass of chilled vermouth on a Sunday afternoon is undeniably delightful, its significance goes beyond taste; it’s woven into the city's social scene. Though the Italians invented the vermouth we know today, the Catalan upper class embraced it. Now, a new generation — including trendy creatives, millennial parents, and urban skaters — is elevating this once-overlooked beverage from dusty taverns to a celebrated staple.
As vermouth gains popularity, tourists flock to Barcelona, eager to savor this beloved drink while enjoying tasty snacks that complement it. To fully appreciate the experience, it’s essential to understand the drink’s cultural roots, from the cherished tradition of Sunday vermouth to the diverse selection of conservas (canned seafood) served alongside it.
Bar Electricitat.Optimal Timing
The vermut ritual is like a boozy brunch in an alternate reality, where classic dishes like eggs Benedict and bloody marys are swapped for an abundance of olives, hearty cheeses, cured meats, crispy chips, and, of course, endless tins of conservas. In Spain, vermouth transcends weekends and doesn’t adhere to a rigid schedule. Its most renowned role is bridging the gap between a light breakfast and a hearty lunch. Here, it’s always the right moment to 'fer el vermut' — a Catalan phrase that encapsulates the unique experience surrounding it. So intrinsic is this custom that Spanish has a term for it: vermuteo, as in, 'Let’s enjoy vermuteo this Sunday.'
Morning vermouth gatherings are common, even on weekdays; the only essentials are that it’s a daytime event, filled with socializing, and accompanied by snacks. Typical offerings include shareable bites like salt-cured anchovies, pickled boquerones (vinegar-marinated anchovies), olives, and potato chips drizzled with paprika vinegar (a delightful surprise for newcomers), alongside various conservas, from juicy cockles to savory razor clams.
What Is It, Really?
Vermouth is a fortified wine infused with botanicals, available in sweet or dry varieties. Dry vermouth is essential for martinis and classic French sauces, while in Spain, sweet vermouth, offered on the rocks in dark and light forms, reigns supreme. Typically made from white wine that’s aromatized over several months, each brand’s recipe remains a closely guarded secret, but common ingredients include quinine, wormwood, citrus peel, coriander, vanilla, thyme, basil, ginger, cardamom, and gentian root. To ensure the wine doesn’t spoil during maceration, high-proof alcohol is added, followed by a sweetening agent. The result is a semi-potent aperitivo with an ABV around 15 percent.
For many years, vermouth enthusiasts had a limited selection: the generic vermut de la casa or well-known brands like Martini & Rossi, mass-produced for the masses. Now, the landscape has evolved with a growing number of artisanal local vermouth brands that proudly showcase their distinctiveness and unique stories, aiming to stand out with complex flavor profiles and extended aging. Notable examples include local favorites like Casa Mariol and Morro Fi, which offer classic flavors, along with the somewhat rarer Padró & Co. Reserva Especial, a solera-style vermouth aged for 18 months in oak sherry barrels.
How to Order Vermouth
For the finest experience, skip the dusty bottle of Martini Red Label and opt for the vermut de la casa — unless you’re in a high-end venue with a selection of artisanal options like those mentioned earlier. If faced with a choice between Martini and a generic brand, the generic is often the better bet, as vermut de la casa typically offers grMytour depth, complexity, and a more pronounced bitterness.
The etiquette of ordering really comes down to enjoying it as it's served, which varies by bar. Some establishments adhere to a purist approach, serving a small, chilled glass with no ice or garnish. This minimalist style is characteristic of a true vermuteria, but a popular choice is vermouth served over ice, garnished with an olive and a slice of orange; the bittersweet flavors complemented by citrus and salt create the perfect day-drinking experience. However, you'll often find everyone opting for the bartender's recommendation.
Many locals dilute their vermouth with a splash of soda to extend their enjoyment. Serious vermouth bars usually have soda siphons on hand; just be careful, as these can spray like a jacuzzi at the slightest touch. Typically, you'll see the siphons on your table or along the bar, but if they’re not visible, feel free to ask the bartender. For an extra twist, you can request your vermouth with a splash of gin. Some bars even serve their vermouth with anchovy-stuffed olives; even if anchovies aren’t your favorite, the flavor is mild enough that it may go unnoticed, creating a surprisingly pleasant contrast. If you dislike fish, just ask in advance to skip it.
Alongside conservas, croquetas are a classic snack enjoyed with vermut.La Peninsular.Ideal Pairings
Some vermouth bars stick to simple light bites, while others feature a wide range of tapas-style dishes that can create a full dining experience. However, most menus share one key element: tinned seafood. Vermuteo reigns supreme in the world of conservas, ranging from mussels and cockles (5 euros, $6) at local spots to premium jumbo clams that can exceed 60 euros ($70) per can. For a traditional experience, sample the big four: musclos en escabetx (vinegar-marinated mussels), navalles (razor clams), cloïsses (clams), and escopinyes (cockles). Popular dishes also include salads of ventresca (tuna belly in olive oil) paired with roasted piquillo peppers, sardines in tomato sauce, and xipirons (baby squid) in their ink. Enhance your conservas with a splash of salsa aperitiu, a vinegar and paprika blend found nearly everywhere conservas are served. The local favorite brand, Salsa Espinaler, is so tied to vermouth culture that their bottles often feature the slogan, “Salut i vermut!”
For non-canned aperitivo options, a plate of both salt-cured and vinegar-cured anchovies — known as “matrimoni” in Catalan when served together — is a traditional must-have. It's rare not to find a bag of potato chips accompanying your snacks, providing a perfect crispy, salty contrast to the tender, vinegary mussels and the spicy kick of salsa aperitiu. To complete the traditional selection, expect an assortment of hard cheeses, briny olives, salted almonds, and various charcuterie, including the renowned ibérico ham and local favorite cured llonganissa salami.
La Peninsular.Where to Enjoy It
Vermouth bar culture ranges from nostalgic to upscale chic, and with numerous options scattered throughout the city, we’ve curated a list of 10 venues that embody the essence of vermouth’s past and present.
Bar Electricitat: This is one of Barcelona's oldest vermouth bars, established in 1908 and still favored by locals in the seaside neighborhood of Barceloneta. Known for its vermouth and wine by the liter, as well as a variety of hot and cold tapas, they maintain an old-school approach: even for a single glass, waiters bring an entire unlabeled bottle to your table, measuring what’s left when it’s time to settle the bill. Barceloneta, Carrer de Sant Carles 15, 08003
Els Sortidors del Parlament: Nestled on the charming Carrer del Parlament, this beautiful bar specializes in vermouth and local wines, making it a perfect launchpad for a vermouth tour. It boasts a wide array of snacks and tapas, daily hot specials, and a fantastic selection of local craft beers. Don’t forget to visit the gourmet shop for some edible souvenirs. Sant Antoni, Carrer del Parlament 53, 08015
La Vermu: Located just a stone’s throw from Plaça de la Vila de Gràcia, this traditional vermouth bar gets bustling on weekend afternoons, offering an authentic taste of local vermut culture amid the vibrant youth of one of Barcelona’s most spirited neighborhoods. It’s an ideal stop for a pre-lunch drink or a late-afternoon refresher before heading out for the evening. Gràcia, Carrer de Sant Domènec 15, 08012
Bodega Vidrios y Cristales: With its vintage charm, reasonable prices, and impressive range of conservas, Bodega Vidrios y Cristales is among the best places in the city center to explore gourmet seafood in a tin. In addition to a solid selection of tapas, the homemade Spanish tortilla is a standout favorite. Barceloneta, Passeig d’Isabel II 6, 08003
Senyor Vermut: A blend of old-world charm and modern vibes, this bar offers a full meal featuring iconic Catalan dishes such as bunyols de bacallà (salt cod fritters), galtes de porc (braised pork cheeks), croquetes de carn d’olla (stewed-meat croquettes), and cargols (snails). Standard tapas, along with anchovies, olives, and various conservas, are also available. L’Eixample, Carrer de Provença 85, 08029
Bodega E. Marin: This narrow bodega is a Gràcia landmark, filled with bottles and barrels from floor to ceiling, adorned with quirky memorabilia ranging from cheeky fireman calendars to FC Barça gear. During bustling afternoons and evenings, locals spill onto the sidewalk, sipping drinks from plastic cups. The menu features a small selection of snacks, simple cocktails, and over 20 wines on tap. Gràcia, Carrer de Milà i Fontanals 72, 08012
El Xampanyet: Renowned for its house sparkling wine, Xampanyet is also a great spot for vermouth. Established in 1929, this character-rich bar is one of the oldest in El Born. Always lively due to its local popularity and proximity to Museu Picasso, enjoy a variety of conservas, house-cured delicacies, hot tapas, and traditional Catalan dishes. The charming decor, including old wine skins and hand-painted tile aucas, invites endless games of “I Spy.” El Born, Carrer de Montcada 22, 08003
La Bodegueta Cal Pep: Located in the authentic neighborhood of Sants, just beyond Plaça d’Espanya, La Bodegueta Cal Pep is a beloved local spot for pre-lunch vermouth. The extensive menu boasts hearty dishes, from fresh mussels and crab to homestyle stews, as well as excellent fried boquerones and morro de porc (fried pig snout). The classic wooden refrigerators add to the old-school charm of this landmark. Sants, Carrer de Canalejas 12, 08028
Bodega Fermín: Situated in the heart of Barceloneta, Bodega Fermín is a stalwart of the neighborhood, just a few blocks from the beach. With wine and vermouth on tap straight from the barrel, and a wide selection of local craft beers, this bar buzzes with activity as sunbathers come in for a midday break. Its menu mainly features conservas, cured meats, and cheeses, making it ideal for a light snack or afternoon aperitivo. Barceloneta, Carrer de Sant Carles 18, 08003
Sam Zucker is a freelance writer, photographer, filmmaker, travel Instagrammer, and culinary tour guide based in Barcelona. His work has appeared in Monocle, National Geographic’s “48 Hours” guides, Culture Trip, and Vice Travel, among others. Gerard Moral is a Barcelona-born photographer who specializes in portrait, travel, and lifestyle photography.
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