BBQ Connections: How Grilled Meat Brought South Africa Together

Nqobani Mlagisi grew up on a farm in Zimbabwe, where grilling, smoking, and curing meats were so ingrained in daily life that he never gave it much thought.

Grilling meat outdoors is a cherished tradition across southern Africa, one that unites people across racial, class, and national boundaries.

It’s commonly called a braai, an Afrikaans term for grill, but the word carries far more significance than just a cooking method.

It’s a mindset, a sense of home and community, something so meaningful it demands a definite article: The braai.

‘The braai is a core part of our heritage… In fact, it defines our heritage,’ says Jean Nel, author of the best-selling cookbook 'Braai, the Beloved Country.'

‘I believe braais are what bind us together as a nation,’ he adds.

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‘A truly simple idea’

None other than Archbishop Desmond Tutu shares this belief as well.

He’s the patron of the National Braai Day initiative, created by celebrity grillmaster Jan Scannell. The goal is to bring South Africans together on their Heritage Day, held on September 24, by celebrating one thing that unites the nation.

‘It’s a wonderful concept, a simple yet powerful idea,’ said Tutu when the initiative started in 2007. ‘Regardless of your politics, culture, race, or background… it’s just South Africans coming together to do one thing, and recognizing that we are an extraordinary nation.’

Though rooted in tradition, the braai continues to evolve as South Africa becomes more urbanized and increasingly connected to the global community.

For Mlagisi, a chef in downtown Johannesburg, he constantly finds himself drawn back to the smells and flavors of his childhood as he creates innovative dishes for a modern, city-based clientele.

‘When you examine global cuisines and their cooking traditions, you’ll see that every continent shares a common technique when it comes to preparing meat,’ he explained. ‘The key difference lies in the spices and herbs they use.’

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Charred meat

‘In Africa, looking back in time, you either had to roast the whole carcass or hang the remaining parts in your kitchen hut, where they would continue to cook over the fire,’ he said.

‘I grew up on a dairy farm in Zimbabwe, and while I witnessed all this firsthand, I was too young to fully understand,’ he said. ‘Now, I find myself reconnecting with my roots through the art of smoking meat, experimenting with various types of wood.’

Most commercial wood chips for smoking are made from foreign trees like oak or cherry. Mlagisi, however, is exploring local woods, such as pines from the Mpumalanga province.

Mlagisi serves up dishes like pulled pork, brisket, and smoked sausages at the City Central Food Hall on 85 Commissioner Street, one of the new gems of downtown Johannesburg’s revitalization.

The nearby streets are lined with small, hole-in-the-wall restaurants offering ‘buy and braai’ or ‘chesa nyama’ (literally ‘burned meat’), a unique setup where diners pick out their raw meat, which is then grilled on the spot while they wait.

This dining style has grown into fast-food chains, one of which is named simply ChesaNyama — essentially the KFC of the braai world.

What’s unfolding at City Central marks the next major step in culinary evolution.

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‘Soweto street food’

While Mlagisi’s braai is rooted in his childhood farm experiences, its flavors and techniques draw inspiration from across the globe, blending finely chopped veggies like salsa with Chinese bao buns.

Next door at Good to Go Eatery, the same international flair is reflected in their burgers, where guacamole and intricate sauces are used to elevate the meats between the buns.

“We’ve added a bit of flair to it,” says owner Sylvester Mthembu. “We call it our Soweto street food, but with a modern twist.”

Mthembu doesn’t consider his approach as reinventing braai, but as a fresh take on serving bunny chows, the beloved South African Indian dish. The half-loafs filled with curry remain a favorite, sold just steps away. What’s particularly striking is the newfound openness to exploring new food options alongside a traditional braai.

“Braai is definitely evolving; today there are so many more techniques involved, moving beyond the usual wors and lamb chop,” says Nel, noting South Africa’s growing fascination with South American cuisines.

“We’re also seeing a rise in street food and quick braai options – from Japanese yakitori to Thai dishes and gourmet boerewors stalls. And the best part? It’s healthy.”