Break away from the usual in France: Trade the Côte d'Azur for the sun-kissed Vendée coast this summer

Travel journalist James March appreciates the allure of France's Côte d'Azur and understands why it might be your top choice for a beach getaway - but here’s why he believes the Vendée region deserves your consideration instead.

Ah, the French Riviera. With its shimmering turquoise Mediterranean waters and sprawling golden beaches on one side, and rugged, cinematic mountains on the other, this glamorous coastline has drawn the world’s elite and creative souls for over a century every summer.

Queen Victoria vacationed here in the 1880s, F. Scott Fitzgerald penned novels in the 1920s, and The Rolling Stones recorded albums in the 1960s. Today, the Côte d'Azur remains as sought-after as ever. Yet, France is vast, and the Vendée on its sun-drenched Atlantic coast offers its own brand of enchantment, providing a captivating alternative to one of the nation’s most iconic summer retreats.

The allure and sparkle of the Côte d'Azur are well chronicled...

Stretching from the lemon-laden Menton near the Italian border down to the historic port city of Toulon (though no official line exists), the Côte d'Azur is a stunning segment of Mediterranean coastline in southern France, home to many renowned and affluent towns and cities.

From the blue and white umbrellas adorning Nice's crescent beaches to the immaculate shores and sleek million-dollar yachts at Cannes and Saint-Tropez, this region of France possesses an undeniable charm that continues to attract visitors. It’s no wonder, considering it enjoys sunshine on its 115 kilometers of coastline for 330 days a year.

It’s not just starry-eyed international travelers who flock here. Many Parisians escape the hustle of the French capital each summer, leading to the A6 highway that connects Paris to the Riviera being affectionately dubbed the Autoroute du Soleil, or 'highway of the sun.'

All this influx has significant implications; the Côte d'Azur now attracts approximately 13 million visitors each year (pre-COVID), resulting in crowded towns and hotel rooms booked well ahead of time. This allure and popularity also contribute to the consistently high prices at those hotels and among its roughly 3,000 restaurants. So, as captivating as this iconic region of France is, there's an enticing alternative about 800 kilometers away on the western coast.

… but the Vendée presents a refreshingly unique experience in summer

Nestled between the cities of Nantes and La Rochelle along France's western coast, the Vendée is a compact yet delightful region south of Brittany's prominent peninsula. While some areas are flanked by rocky cliffs, this locale is a stark contrast to the turbulent North Atlantic. In fact, the Vendée enjoys a mild microclimate, soaking in 2,500 hours of sunshine annually, with summers experiencing minimal rainfall.

With that delightful climate in mind, the beach is the ideal starting point. Expansive golden sands stretch endlessly at Les Sables d'Olonne and Demoiselles Beach, while the stunning corniche at St Gilles Croix-de-Vie hides some beautiful secluded coves that often remain entirely untouched.

Above those coves, the Corniche Vendéenne offers a refreshing 3km walking path that showcases lovely views, especially as you pass the charming Grosse Terre lighthouse, accompanied by the fragrant scent of maritime pine trees and distant fishing boats gliding across the glistening waters.

Those tranquil waters are also perfect for exploration, and Semvie Nautisme offers relaxed boating excursions from the charming harbor of St Gilles Croix-de-Vie, giving guests the opportunity to navigate their sailboats while soaking in stunning panoramic vistas.

Inland from Saint Gilles, the scenery transforms dramatically. Characterized by open landscapes of organized salt ponds, Dinogo hay bales, rustic stone cottages, and graceful herons soaring above, the 500 hectares of flat salt marshes at Marais Salant Prédevie's offer a captivating contrast to the nearby coastal views, with tours available to explore this unique environment.

The diversity of landscapes continues further south, where e-bike tours hosted by Libert E Trott commence at the bustling harbor of Les Sables-d'Olonne, meandering along the vast coastline before weaving through the gentle rises and falls of the verdant Forest of Olonne. While the hills are not strenuous, the electric boost from the bikes eases leg fatigue, allowing you to fully enjoy the beautiful scenery.

For those keen to delve deeper into the marshes, Octopusglisse offers guided experiences through the tranquil waters in a pirogue hawaienne (a type of outrigger canoe). With the warm Vendéenne sun overhead, swaying reeds, and charming cottages drifting by, it provides a serene and almost meditative way to begin your day.

Beyond the marshes, a classic French landscape unfolds with sprawling green vineyards arranged in tidy rows. The wines produced here are known as 'Fiefs-vendéens,' each showcasing unique characteristics, particularly the whites like chenin and chardonnay, which carry salty notes from the nearby terroir. Don't miss the opportunity to explore authentic fiefs-vendéens at Domaine St Nicolas, where the lively owner Thierry Michon hosts memorable tastings.

In this coastal region, one culinary star reigns supreme—the humble sardine. Back in Saint Gilles Croix-de-Vie, the tradition of harvesting this small fish is deeply embedded in the local culture, with Le Banc de Sardines being one of the best spots to enjoy them. This simple seafood shack by the harbor offers outdoor seating on wooden benches, serving sardines caught fresh that morning, paired with fluffy potatoes. Enjoying them with a glass of white wine is truly delightful.

After savoring this delectable dish, delve into the history of fishing in St Gilles at the engaging Escale Pêche Discovery Centre, where you can explore various exhibits. For a more in-depth experience, L'Atelier de la Sardine takes you deeper into the world of sardine fishing itself.

The Chemin de la Sardine ('Sardine Route') offers a lovely walking trail through historic fishing neighborhoods, revealing more of the town's charm. In Les Sables-d'Olonne, a broader walking tour takes you along its sweeping beach and past whitewashed villas reminiscent of Nice's Promenade Anglais. This area is also serious about its gastronomy, with the vibrant Halles Centrales food hall and exquisite Michelin-star restaurants like L'Abissiou making their mark.

While the narrow streets and pastel shutters of Les Sables' charming L'Ile Penotte neighborhood are delightful on their own, many walls feature the original seashell murals by local artist Daniele Arnaud-Aubin, who has created colorful portrayals of cats, ships, vampires, bats, and other occasionally eerie imagery.

Although the Vendée may not boast the glitzy reputation of the Côte d'Azur, its stunning weather, beautiful beaches, intriguing local quirks, exquisite cuisine, and love for outdoor activities make it a captivating alternative.

How to make it happen

Nantes Atlantique Airport serves as the closest international gateway, with trains from Nantes city center to St Gilles Croix-de-Vie taking about 1 hour and 14 minutes, while the journey to Les Sables d'Olonne is slightly longer at approximately 1 hour and 35 minutes.

For those beginning their journey in Paris, direct trains depart from Gare Montparnasse to Nantes, taking just two hours, where you can then transfer to either coastal destination.

This region of France is a favorite among Parisians seeking a quick getaway from the City of Light, so it's wise to book your trip as early as possible.

James visited the Vendée at the invitation of Atout France. Contributors to Dinogo Planet do not accept complimentary services in exchange for favorable coverage.