Centocelle: Rome's Trendiest Neighborhood

When Francesca Barreca and Marco Baccanelli took over a 600-square-foot space in Rome's Centocelle in 2012, their plan was to launch a catering business, not a restaurant. Their pop-up and food festival successes had set the stage, but Italian bureaucracy delayed their power connection for 18 months. Facing numerous obstacles in setting up their catering venture, they pivoted and transformed the space into a cozy 12-seat Mytoury named Mazzo, which quickly became popular.

Since its 2013 debut, Mazzo has delighted diners with its inventive Roman classics—such as fried tripe and chicken cutlet cacciatore—drawing crowds and sparking Centocelle's evolution from a residential area into a lively nightlife hub.

Previously, Centocelle was a relatively obscure working-class and student neighborhood, situated about five miles from Rome's center. Recent years have brought a surge of bars, pubs, and restaurants, partly due to Mazzo's success and the introduction of three new metro stations in 2015, which connected the area to central Rome. With 55,000 residents and many more in neighboring areas eager to support local ventures, Centocelle has seen a vibrant change.

Today, Centocelle buzzes around the Gardenie metro stop, amidst drab apartment blocks from the 1960s and ’70s. Although it lacks picturesque beauty and grand landmarks, Centocelle has its own appeal. Its graffiti-covered buildings and broad residential streets offer an authentic glimpse into everyday Roman life, even if they don’t make it onto postcards.

Just northeast of the Gardenie metro stop, Via delle Palme stands at the heart of Centocelle’s aperitivo scene. Here, the new spot Menabó offers natural wines and snacks like beef croquettes with bitter greens, along with a full dinner menu. Its spacious and cozy dining area makes it a popular choice for families and romantic outings, standing out from the more boisterous bars nearby.

A standout is the Venetian-style L’OmbraLonga, which opened in 2013. At its small wooden counter, staff serve cheese and cured meat plates, wines by the glass, and Aperol spritzes for about €0 each. Arrive after 6:30 p.m., and you might end up waiting on a milk crate for a spot on the busy patio.

Pizza soon follows wherever young Romans gather. Opened in 2017, 180g Pizzeria Romana offers crispy, thin-crust Roma-style pizzas, each hand-stretched and topped with classics like margherita or inventive choices like roasted pork. Early diners are mostly local families with young kids, while later, a flood of pizza enthusiasts and craft beer lovers from across the city show up.

Beer enthusiasts should check out the 100celle Beerhouse, a 18-month-old venue serving hoppy IPAs from Italian craft brewers such as CR/AK, Vento Forte, and Hammer. Cocktails like the classic spritz and a strong Negroni are also on offer, all under €4, though the place attracts a left-leaning crowd that prefers the brews.

The four-year-old Pro Loco DOL has made a name for itself in Rome for its commitment to local products. At the shop's front, you'll find carefully sourced meats, cheeses, legumes, and bread. The adjoining narrow café features a changing menu of hearty dishes like stinco con le patate (pork shin with potatoes) and mezze maniche con sugo di spuntature (pasta in a rich pork rib sauce). They also serve pizza made with locally milled flour and dough that ferments for 48 hours for enhanced flavor.

Centocelle, though not a new neighborhood, is seeing its long-standing establishments thrive with the area's rising popularity. Near the Gardenie metro stop, Peccati di…Vini has been a beloved fixture for nearly two decades, offering wines and small plates in its cozy, wood-paneled setting, now busier than ever. Forte Prenestino, once a large abandoned complex, was repurposed into a social hub by leftist activists in 1986. It now hosts film screenings, lectures, a Sunday farmers market, and summer concerts featuring a mix of local and international indie artists.

Despite its lively nightlife, Mercato Insieme — the largest municipal market in Centocelle since its relocation in 2006 — operates until 2 p.m. and mirrors the neighborhood’s vibrant, diverse character. Its stalls offer everything from romanesco to horse steaks and oxtails, essential for budget-conscious home cooks. For a quick pizza fix, Pommidoro, a four-year-old takeout spot, serves sheet-pan pizzas topped with flavors reminiscent of classic Roman pasta dishes like amatriciana and carbonara.

Even with the surge of new spots and the arrival of fresh faces, Centocelle maintains its down-to-earth charm. This authenticity is evident in its corner bodegas and graffiti-covered storefronts, which stand out among the new spritz bars, pizzerias, and innovative restaurants like Mazzo.

Mazzo, Via delle Rose, 54, 00171 RomeMenabó, Via delle Palme, 44/D, 00171 Rome180g Pizzeria Romana, Via Tor de’ Schiavi, 53, 00172 Rome100celle Beer House, Via dei Ciclamini, 28, 00171 RomeForte Prenestino, Via Federico Delpino, 00171 RomePeccati di…Vini, Via delle Albizzie, 12, 00172 RomeL’OmbraLonga, Via delle Palme, 76/A, 00171 RomeMercato Insieme, Viale della Primavera, 11, 00172 Rome Pro Loco DOL, Via Domenico Panaroli, 35, 00172 RomePommidoro, Via delle Acacie, 1/A, 00171 Rome

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Katie Parla is a Rome-based cookbook author, food journalist, educator, and culinary guide. Follow her on Twitter, Instagram, and Facebook.