Centocelle: Rome’s Trendiest Neighborhood

In 2012, Francesca Barreca and Marco Baccanelli leased a 600-square-foot spot in Centocelle with no plans to open a restaurant. The chef duo aimed to launch a catering business, but delays from Italian bureaucracy and obstacles in setting up the business led them to start a casual 12-seat restaurant, Mazzo, which quickly became a local favorite.

Since its debut in 2013, Mazzo’s inventive Roman dishes, like fried tripe and chicken cutlet cacciatore, have drawn crowds, contributing to Centocelle’s shift from a quiet residential area to a lively nightlife hub.

Once a distant working-class neighborhood, Centocelle has recently blossomed with new bars, pubs, and restaurants. This change is partly due to Mazzo’s popularity and the addition of three new metro stations in 2015, which improved access to central Rome, alongside the local community’s eagerness to support new ventures.

Today, the heart of Centocelle pulses around the Gardenie metro stop, amidst unremarkable apartment blocks from the 1960s and ’70s. While not scenic or monumental, Centocelle’s graffiti-strewn buildings and broad residential streets offer an authentic glimpse into Rome’s everyday life.

Just northeast of the Gardenie stop, Via delle Palme is the heart of Centocelle’s aperitivo scene. At the new spot, Menabó, you can enjoy natural wines and snacks like beef croquettes with bitter greens, along with a full dinner menu. Its spacious and cozy dining area makes it a top choice for families and romantic evenings, outshining the rowdier bars nearby.

The most popular spot is the Venetian-inspired L’OmbraLonga, which has been serving since 2013. From a small counter, staff offer plates of cheeses, cured meats, wines by the glass, and Aperol spritzes, all around €0. Arrive after 6:30 p.m. and you might end up standing on a milk crate while waiting for a spot on the busy patio.

Pizza follows wherever young Romans gather, and since 2017, 180g Pizzeria Romana has been serving crispy, thin-crust Roman-style pies. Each pizza is hand-stretched and topped with classic or inventive options like roasted pork. While early diners are mostly local families with children, later shifts see a crowd of pizza enthusiasts and craft beer lovers.

For beer enthusiasts, 100celle Beerhouse, open for 18 months, offers hoppy IPAs from Italian craft brewers such as CR/AK, Vento Forte, and Hammer. Cocktails like spritz and Negroni are also available, all under €4, but the local activist crowd primarily sticks to the beer selections.

Four-year-old Pro Loco DOL is a Roman favorite for its commitment to local producers. At the shop's front, you'll find carefully sourced meats, cheeses, legumes, and bread, while the adjoining café serves hearty classics like stinco con le patate (pork shin with potatoes) and mezze maniche con sugo di spuntature (pasta with pork rib sauce). They also offer pizza made from locally milled flour and dough that ferments for 48 hours to enhance flavor.

Centocelle may not be new, but its rising popularity is benefiting long-established local spots. Near the Gardenie metro, Peccati di…Vini has been a staple for nearly two decades, offering wines and small plates in a cozy, wood-paneled setting that's now busier than ever. Forte Prenestino, once an abandoned site, was turned into a social hub by activists in 1986 and now hosts film screenings, lectures, a Sunday farmers market, and summer concerts by local and international indie artists.

While Centocelle is buzzing with nightlife, Mercato Insieme, the neighborhood’s largest market since 2006, is open until 2 p.m. Its diverse stalls feature everything from romanesco and dandelion greens to horse steaks and oxtails, essential for budget-conscious cooks. For a slice of lunchtime pizza, head to Pommidoro, a 4-year-old spot serving sheet-pan pizzas topped with Rome-inspired classics like amatriciana and carbonara.

Despite the influx of new openings and newcomers, Centocelle retains its laid-back charm. The neighborhood’s authentic vibe is still evident in the local bodegas and graffiti-covered storefronts that coexist with the trendy new bars, pizzerias, and innovative Mytouries like Mazzo.

For more information, visit:
Mazzo, Via delle Rose, 54, 00171 Rome
Menabó, Via delle Palme, 44/D, 00171 Rome
180g Pizzeria Romana, Via Tor de’ Schiavi, 53, 00172 Rome
100celle Beer House, Via dei Ciclamini, 28, 00171 Rome
Forte Prenestino, Via Federico Delpino, 00171 Rome
Peccati di…Vini, Via delle Albizzie, 12, 00172 Rome
L’OmbraLonga, Via delle Palme, 76/A, 00171 Rome
Mercato Insieme, Viale della Primavera, 11, 00172 Rome
Pro Loco DOL, Via Domenico Panaroli, 35, 00172 Rome
Pommidoro, Via delle Acacie, 1/A, 00171 Rome

Discover more about Rome’s neighborhoods here.

Katie Parla is a Rome-based cookbook author, food journalist, educator, and culinary guide. Connect with her on Twitter, Instagram, and Facebook.