Cha Ca: A whole street in Hanoi devoted to a single, iconic dish

At first glance, the humble restaurant at number 14 Cha Ca Street doesn’t seem like much.

Yet, the long line outside clearly shows we’ve found the right spot.

This is Cha Ca La Vong – one of Hanoi’s oldest establishments, and the very first to open on Cha Ca Street more than a century ago.

Along the bustling street, where tangled electric wires crisscross above, numerous vendors compete to serve the best cha ca – crispy, turmeric-seasoned fish fried right at your table with fresh herbs.

The dish’s widespread popularity has made Cha Ca Street in Hanoi’s Old Quarter a beloved destination for both locals and tourists.

“Every time I stroll down Cha Ca Street, it takes me back to my childhood,” says Nguyen My Giang Huong (also known as Tin), the chef-owner of Green Tangerine restaurant in Hanoi, speaking to Dinogo Travel.

“Food is taken very seriously in Hanoi – everything on the table matters. (Eating cha ca) is a cherished moment that brings families together.”

Hanoi’s most iconic dish

Cha Ca has a rich history, dating back over 130 years. It was first created by the Doan family, who served the dish to soldiers during the French colonial era.

“When soldiers arrived in Hanoi, the family would make this dish for them,” Tin explains. “It was so well-loved that everyone encouraged them to open a restaurant.”

And that restaurant became Cha Ca La Vong.

After the restaurant’s immense success, numerous cha ca vendors sprang up along the same street – some even copying the name, like Cha Ca La Song, to attract visitors.

Eventually, Hang Son (Paint Street) was officially renamed Cha Ca Street to honor the legendary dish.

A hands-on dining experience

Typically made with snakehead, a freshwater fish common throughout Vietnam, cha ca is widely regarded as one of Hanoi’s signature dishes.

The marinade, a blend of turmeric, garlic, shallots, galangal (a root similar to ginger), salt, sugar, and fish sauce, is the key to this flavorful dish.

After marinating for at least an hour, the fish is typically pre-grilled and then fried in oil just before serving.

At a traditional cha ca restaurant, you’re in charge of the experience – it’s all DIY.

“You walk in, take a seat, and place your order – either one serving or two,” says Tin.

A sizzling hot pan with marinated fish will be brought to your table, along with a basket of sides – including vermicelli, fresh herbs (such as dill, basil, and spring onion), roasted peanuts, chili, and mam nem (a fermented shrimp paste with a distinct, earthy aroma).

As the fish and herbs cook before you, the turmeric marinade turns the fish a rich golden hue, while the fragrance of dill fills the air.

Once it’s ready, savor bite-sized pieces of fish paired with salty peanuts, fresh herbs, and vermicelli.

New takes on tradition

As Hanoi’s dining scene evolves, cha ca is no longer limited to its original street.

Modern twists on the classic fish dish can be found at trendy spots across Hanoi, including cha ca-style tacos at MAD Society, a refined version at T-Art, and wine pairings at Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi’s Spices Garden restaurant.

At Green Tangerine, Tin offers his own unique spin on the dish.

He incorporates high-quality ingredients, such as crushed saffron, fermented rice, spring onion, and lemongrass, and serves it over a bed of risotto instead of the traditional vermicelli noodles.

“The scent of fermented rice really brings out the flavor of the marinade,” Tin explains. “This is my take on cha ca.”