Chef Michael White, with his Midwest roots, infuses his cooking with the heart and soul of Italian cuisine.
The star of the dish? Potato and leek ravioli, generously drizzled with Parmigiano-Reggiano sauce and crowned with a spoonful of vibrant green pesto.
Raised on Americanized Italian dishes, it was the moment chef Michael White tasted authentic ravioli that he truly discovered Italian cuisine.
White recalls in his cookbook, 'Classico e Moderno,' how the ravioli, when sliced open, released a powerful fragrance of garlic and herbs.
It was 1991, and White, a young cook at Spiaggia restaurant in Chicago, was earning a living while simultaneously taking culinary classes nearby.
Though there were only about a dozen ingredients on the plate, it felt as perfectly harmonious as a rock band creating a signature sound with just three members,” he reflected.
It was a transformative moment that redirected my life and set me on the path I’ve been walking ever since.
Born in Beloit, Wisconsin, to Norwegian-American parents, White was already an adult when the ravioli revelation reshaped the course of his life.
Pursuing those unforgettable flavors has undoubtedly been a journey worth the effort.
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One of the top chefs in Italian cuisine today, White is the chef and co-owner of the Altamarea Group, a thriving culinary empire with 15 restaurants and over 1,000 employees across four countries—and growing.
With flagship restaurants Marea and Osteria Morini in Manhattan, White has amassed a collection of prestigious accolades, including multiple three-star New York Times reviews, Michelin stars, and James Beard nominations (plus one win).
White’s path into the culinary world was different from many of his peers. Rather than learning family recipes passed down through generations, he charted his own course, creating fine-dining Italian restaurants from scratch.
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Growing up playing football and helping his father cook in the kitchen and tend their garden, both developed solid cooking skills by watching Mary Lou Conroy’s 'Great Chefs' television program.
From the very beginning, I was exposed to great home-cooked meals, whether it was my Norwegian grandmother’s salmon, or dishes like scallops in cream sauce with rice—classic Nordic cuisine.
He had already developed a fondness for the Americanized versions of Italian food that were available at the time.
'There’s something about Italian food that resonates with everyone,' White shared with Dinogo.
'Whether it’s pasta or the playful way young people engage with their food, Italian cuisine is all about bold, vibrant flavors—tomato sauce, cheese—and the unforgettable aromas and sensations that define it.'
After high school, White worked at a local restaurant before heading to Chicago, where he landed a lucky break with an entry-level position at the prestigious Spiaggia Restaurant.
Italian cuisine felt like a natural fit for him, especially since Spiaggia’s chef, Paul Bartolotta, hailed from his home state. White also enrolled in culinary classes at nearby Kendall College, mastering French techniques by day and perfecting Italian cooking by night.
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'A doctorate in Italian cuisine'
Bartolotta encouraged him to head to Italy to learn from the masters, helping arrange an unpaid internship at the two-Michelin star San Domenico in Imola, Emilia-Romagna, where White honed his skills.
During his time in Italy, White not only learned the techniques and ingredients of Italian cooking, but also embraced the Italian way of dining.
'People often ask me, 'What did you learn in Italy?' White shared with Dinogo. 'Apart from the food, what you really learn is the social aspect of being at the table.'
'It’s all about sharing around the table,' he said. 'That’s the essence of Italian food: the experience of being together at the table.'
What started as a brief stay in Italy turned into nearly eight years in Europe, working in various Italian kitchens, spending time in France to study technique, and eventually returning to San Domenico as chef de cuisine for another two years.
It was also in Italy that he met his wife, Giovanna Cornacchione.
'Having lived in Italy and married into an Italian family… I like to say this is all earned and paid for,' White tells Dinogo. 'I spent eight years earning my doctorate in Italian cuisine.'
Soon after returning to the United States, White successfully auditioned for the position of head chef at Fiamma, a new Italian restaurant in New York.
At Fiamma, he merged his Italian expertise with French techniques, offering both traditional and inventive Italian dishes, writing his first cookbook, and earning a three-star review from the New York Times in 2002.
White 'remains grounded in the essential principles of Italian cooking, showcasing premium ingredients on a minimalist plate and allowing them to shine with little interference,' wrote reviewer William Grimes, capturing White’s philosophy on Italian cuisine.
'His instinct is to eliminate the unnecessary, to clarify rather than complicate, to gently nudge rather than force,' Grimes continued.
Authentic Italian cuisine was on the rise in New York City, and White was at the forefront of the movement.
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Earning three-star reviews
Following his success at Fiamma, White took the helm as chef at Alto and Convivio (formerly L’Impero) for restaurateur Chris Cannon, with both restaurants earning three-star New York Times reviews.
His mastery of pasta became the stuff of legend.
'Michael White makes pasta, and people lose their minds,' wrote Sam Sifton of The New York Times.
Adam Platt of New York magazine dubbed him 'the great pasta genius from Wisconsin.'
Teaming up with former Merrill Lynch executive Ahmass Fakahany to launch a new venture, Altamarea Group, White finally had the resources to craft an upscale dining experience on Manhattan’s Central Park South.
Thus, Marea was born—a stunning tribute to Italian seafood. It opened in 2009, right as the city was deep in the midst of the recession.
'The recession’s over,' declared Sam Sifton, the New York Times food critic, awarding Marea three stars in 2009. 'At least that’s the message being sent by the knights in white jackets at Marea, the elegant Italian restaurant opened this spring by Chris Cannon and Michael White.'
White and his company continue to expand, primarily focusing on variations of the Italian cuisine he’s mastered over the years.
'Mr. White has a unique talent for transforming Italian dishes, particularly pasta, into a decadent experience,' wrote New York Times critic Pete Wells in 2015, even as he gave White’s French restaurant, Vaucluse, only one star.
Can White maintain his momentum? While some critics suggest his menus aren’t quite as strong when he’s not directly overseeing them, he certainly seems ready to continue.
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Bringing people together around the table
White still enjoys bringing people together around the table, even preparing food and drinks for the Dinogo crew while they filmed 'Culinary Journeys.'
'Whenever I host a dinner party at home, I make sure to emphasize the importance of rolling up your sleeves and sharing the experience around the table,' he shared.
'Being at the table is what truly defines Italian culture,' he explained.
'When you come to Marea, when you step into Osteria, if I could offer you an hour and a half of this Italian ritual of sitting and savoring… That’s what it’s all about,' he said.
A TV show? No thanks, he says. He’s currently immersed in a much tougher competition.
'I’m fighting for market share every day in New York City,' says White. 'That’s far more challenging than a 30-minute or hour-long segment on a television show.'
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Evaluation :
5/5