City strolls: Discover Edinburgh on foot

Despite its notorious seven hills (no matter which direction you choose, you’ll always find yourself going uphill), Edinburgh is surprisingly pedestrian-friendly. Scotland’s capital, while not the largest, boasts a vibrant metropolitan atmosphere filled with charming neighborhoods and bustling streets, allowing you to enjoy its diversity and energy with just a short walk.

A unique aspect of Edinburgh is the extinct volcano that stands proudly in its midst. I must highlight Arthur’s Seat, an impressive geological feature located in Holyrood Park that majestically overlooks the city. While many visitors simply stroll around the hill or, heaven forbid, climb it, I prefer to see it as a link between Edinburgh’s northern and southern neighborhoods.

With that in mind, let’s kick off our journey on Easter Road, the quieter counterpart to the bustling Leith Walk, running parallel in the northern part of the city. This area feels authentically local, featuring Edinburgh’s signature Victorian tenement buildings alongside numerous independent cafes and quirky shops. Stop by Twelve Triangles for a coffee and a perfectly crafted pastry, then head south toward Abbeyhill. Cross London Road, tackle the steep ascent of Abbey Mount (as I warned you), and navigate through the semi-industrial, semi-rural shortcut of Croft-An-Righ.

As you emerge on the other side, prepare to be wowed by your first view of Arthur’s Seat, a striking sight with its jagged cliffs, thorny gorse, and untamed wilderness right in the city’s heart. Make your way toward it, then follow Queen’s Drive around to the south (though take a quick detour up the opposite direction for a glimpse of St Margaret’s Loch and its rather cantankerous swans). This majestic walk features the sheer face of the hill on one side and rows of flats on the other, showcasing the delightful blend of ancient and modern that defines Edinburgh’s charm.

Soon, on your right, you’ll spot a path and steps sharply ascending through the trees. Bid farewell to the volcanic segment of your walk and ascend to Edinburgh’s Southside, a vibrant student district that hosts both the University of Edinburgh and the Edinburgh Festival Fringe. Follow St Leonard’s Lane, take a left onto St Leonard’s Street, and continue straight down Bernard Terrace and Hope Park Terrace to arrive at Summerhall, Edinburgh’s trendiest arts venue. The former veterinary school of the university has been repurposed into a multifunctional hub, showcasing some of the Fringe’s finest performances in August and hosting excellent music, theater, and exhibitions throughout the year. Peek into their small galleries for some innovative art before heading to The Royal Dick at the back of the courtyard for a well-deserved pint, some chips, and a dose of vintage veterinary memorabilia.

Once you’re recharged, make your way out of Summerhall and head towards Lighthouse Bookshop, the city’s vibrant queer radical bookshop. Take some time to browse the shelves, greet their dog Artemis, and indulge in more literary finds than you probably need. From here, you can continue down Chapel Street to the Talbot Rice Gallery, a stunning contemporary art space nestled in the picturesque Old College Quad, or stop by Paradise Palms across the street, a whimsical bar offering delicious vegan cuisine and adorned with stuffed toys dangling from the ceiling, for another well-deserved break.