Colombia's Ciudad Perdida, an ancient marvel predating Machu Picchu, remains a hidden gem that few have the chance to visit.

Nestled in the dense jungle of Colombia's Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta mountains, Ciudad Perdida, or the 'Lost City,' was built over 1,000 years ago by the Tairona people. This forgotten site only drew attention after its rediscovery in the 1970s.

Originally known as Teyuna by the Tairona, the Lost City, now called Ciudad Perdida, is often compared to Machu Picchu due to its similar location atop a mountain and surrounded by lush South American rainforests.

However, Ciudad Perdida predates Machu Picchu by more than 600 years. Unlike its Peruvian counterpart, it’s not accessible by train or bus — the only way to experience its splendor is through a challenging multiday trek.

Experiencing it firsthand

Despite the tough conditions, I couldn’t resist the chance to explore Ciudad Perdida on my own.

The journey began in the small town of Mamey, a bumpy two-hour ride from Santa Marta, located on Colombia’s northern Caribbean coast.

A licensed guide is required for the trek to the Lost City, and booking one is simple through various online companies. Over lunch in Mamey, I met the 12 other hikers in my group and our guide, Pedro.

The dirt trail, winding past towering banana trees, palms, and thick vines, proved tough right from the beginning. It’s recommended that hikers be in good shape, as the trek is physically demanding.

Along with the oppressive heat and humidity, the 47-kilometer (29-mile) hike takes us up and down four small mountains. Since it's an out-and-back route, we’d have to repeat the same tough terrain twice.

We shared the trail with mules, which carried food and supplies to the various lodges where we would rest during the trek.

The trail meandered alongside the Rio Buritaca, which meant occasional river crossings, but also offered frequent and much-needed opportunities to cool off.

A glimpse into local life

After our first dinner, we gathered around the table as the sun set. Pedro, our guide, shared the rich history of the region he calls home.

He explained, through a Spanish interpreter, that in his lifetime, the area has experienced three economic booms. The first two were driven by illegal crops: marijuana and, later, coca, the plant used to make cocaine.

Coca leaf tea is legal in both Bolivia and Peru, though not in Colombia. However, there are ongoing efforts to push for coca legalization in the country.

While cultivating these crops offered a way for local people to earn a living, Pedro explained that it also led to the rise of violent cartels and guerrilla groups in the region.

The uncovering of Ciudad Perdida marked the turning point, shifting the focus away from illegal activities and paving the way for the third wave: tourism.

The tourism boom

Even so, some still harbor reservations about traveling in Colombia.

In 2003, a group of tourists was kidnapped while hiking to the Lost City, with some held captive for 100 days before being released unharmed.

Today, however, the trail is regularly patrolled by Colombian army units.

This added security measure helps reduce risks for tour operators and offers peace of mind to the thousands of visitors, myself included.

Meeting the locals

The Wiwa people, descendants of the ancient Tairona, have lived in isolation for centuries. Their spiritual bond with the land remains as strong as ever.

Clad in all white, a color considered sacred by the Wiwa, tribe members welcomed us and shared a glimpse of their daily life.

They demonstrated how they strip wax from palm leaves to craft mochillas, traditional cross-body bags. We also tasted the coca leaf, which holds deep spiritual significance for the Wiwa, who chew it throughout the day.

We were shown their poporos, gourd containers filled with powdered lime from seashells. When mixed with coca leaves, it creates a mild stimulant effect.

In the Wiwa culture, a boy is given his poporo as a rite of passage into manhood.

We set out at dawn the next day, but by the time we reached the final stretch — a daunting 1,200 stone steps built by the Tairona — the heat and muscle cramps had already taken their toll.

After struggling to haul my exhausted body up the long staircase, I finally laid eyes on the breathtaking sight that had driven this challenging trek: Ciudad Perdida.

The steep mountain slope gave way to a series of stone terraces carved into the ridges and slopes of the narrow hill, set against a backdrop of vibrant, untouched forest.

Out of a mix of exhaustion and reverence, our group remained silent as Pedro led us to the spot where about 2,000 Taironas lived for centuries before abandoning it sometime between 1580 and 1650, around the Spanish colonization period.

Aside from the indigenous tribes, the 169 terraces spread over 30 hectares remained concealed, safeguarded by the site’s isolation. That is, until 1972, when looters followed the ancient stone steps and uncovered treasures of gold, jewelry, and ceramics.

After years of theft, the Colombian government intervened to protect the site and help restore the ancient city.

Sitting on one of the highest terraces, I gazed down at the breathtaking view below. We were among just a few other groups, a rarity compared to the bustling crowds of more popular tourist spots.

It felt like we were among the few lucky ones to explore this ancient marvel.

After soaking in the views and reflecting on the site’s unique history, we began the long trek back.

The return journey was tough, partly due to the mental challenge of knowing our goal had already been achieved. Still, it’s an experience I would gladly repeat. Ciudad Perdida requires far more time and effort to reach than iconic destinations like the Eiffel Tower or Victoria Peak.

But it was the difficulty of the journey that made the reward feel even sweeter. Views that are earned are always more meaningful.