Copy My Journey: An Epic Rail Adventure Across Italy from Rome to Venice

Dinogo Planet associate editor Ann Douglas Lott recently embarked on a journey through Italy using a vintage train, regional trains, and buses. Here, she offers tips and insights for anyone considering a similar adventure.

When I shared my plans for a trip to Italy, the enthusiasm people expressed about their own experiences was overwhelming – the stunning landscapes, the captivating ruins, the life-changing slice of pizza they savored, and how their daily coffee just hasn’t measured up since. However, I realized that I wouldn't truly grasp that joy until I had my own experience.

As a newcomer to one of the world's most popular destinations, my expectations were incredibly high. I envisioned an extensive rail (and occasional bus) tour stopping in Rome, Perugia, Florence, and Venice – all within a single week. Initially, the urge to pack as much as possible into my itinerary was strong, but thanks to the Italian philosophy of slow living, I learned to embrace a more leisurely pace as I explored (and indulged) in this beautiful country.

Are you also a first-time visitor to Italy? Here’s what you need to know

Where did you stay? What was the atmosphere like?

Four amazing destinations called for four equally remarkable, centrally-located hotels. I had the pleasure of staying at a different five-star Sina hotel in each city: the historic Bernini Bristol in Rome, the scenic Sina Brufani in Perugia, the elegant Villa Medici in Florence, and the picturesque Centurion Palace in Venice.

This family-owned brand has been in operation for over 60 years, exuding classic Italian charm. I particularly love hotels that truly embody their location, with details like Brufani's sophisticated classical decor and Villa Medici's grand early 19th-century lobby elevating the overall experience. While these are luxury hotels, don’t overlook them if you prefer to stick to a tighter travel budget; nightly rates vary widely based on the destination’s popularity. For example, Perugia is more budget-friendly compared to Florence (and Perugia was my favorite stop – more on that later).

Some highlights:

• Enjoying Aperol spritzes on the hotel's rooftop terrace at sunset in Rome

• The Perugia hotel's pool with a glass base revealing an ancient ruin, along with stunning views of Umbria's hills from my room

• The vintage keys and the private garden complete with its own pool at the Florence hotel

• Taking in the sights of the Grand Canal from the porch of the Venice hotel

What was my favorite activity during the trip?

Let’s discuss the ultimate train experience. Traveling through the Italian countryside is always delightful, but doing so aboard a beautifully restored 1960s gem? That’s truly special. The Arlecchino feels like a scene from a Wes Anderson film, featuring spacious, brightly hued velvet seats, expansive windows, a vintage bar car, and stylish retro viewing cabins at both ends. Starting in Rome, we meandered through Lazio into the enchanting Umbrian landscape, passing lush hills, traversing mountain tunnels, and exploring charming medieval towns like Assisi.

I feel fortunate to have secured a seat on this Perugia-bound journey—the Arlecchino isn’t a daily service like the Trenitalia trains. However, its operator, Fondazione FS Italiene, offers similar vintage journeys throughout Italy nearly every day, allowing you to experience the magic of riding an old Italian train. Tickets are available on the website, where you can also discover their historic routes. Prices generally range around €50 per adult. If you prefer a quicker journey, the Trenitalia option promises breathtaking views, regardless of the train you choose.

Design your own rail adventure across Italy with our tips for navigating the country

What was the best dish you tried?

That life-changing slice of pizza? It was a mozzarella and guanciale delight from Zizzi Pizza in Rome. But the highlight was an incredibly fresh sandwich from I' Bacaro De Bischeri in Venice, featuring warm focaccia, prosciutto, arugula, caramelized onions, and creamy burrata.

Honorable mentions include the amaretto mousse and tiramisu from Osteria Al Bacareto in Venice, ham and parmesan fettuccine from Harry's Bar The Garden in Florence (located conveniently inside the Villa Medici hotel), and a simple piece of burrata—so fresh it was still warm—in Perugia. And let's not forget the entire gelato selection at Gelateria Nico in Venice, especially my favorite, stracciatella (chocolate chip).

Looking for more Italian dining suggestions? Check out the best places to eat in Florence right now

What was the most touristy activity you experienced?

While in Venice, don’t miss out on a glass factory tour! Our hotel organized a water taxi to whisk us away to Murano for a tour of Schiavon Art Team's factory and gallery, one of the island's renowned glassblowing studios. The taxi ride across the lagoon was a luxurious treat in itself—a private wooden boat with leather seats—but you can also take a vaporetto to Murano for a more budget-friendly option.

We stepped into a sprawling gallery filled with colorful glass chandeliers, plants, abstract figures, and even a mural of the Avengers (they truly can do it all). The real highlight, however, was watching the glass artisans at work—a team of five who moved almost like a dance, maintaining the heat of the glass while flawlessly timing their sculpting of a stunning blue marlin. I could've stayed there all day, but the allure of the canals beckoned.

What was the most hidden gem of an activity you experienced?

If you’re looking for a charming stop between Rome and Florence, look no further. Umbria offers all the beauty of Italy without the throngs of tourists (except during Perugia's famous chocolate and jazz festivals in March and July), and the single night I spent in Perugia's medieval center was far too brief.

Before the sun set, I explored the underground fortress Rocca Paolina. You can access it via escalator from a lovely park called Giardini Carducci, which offers a stunning view of the sunset over the rolling hills of Umbria. The following morning, make sure to stop by Sandri for a coffee and pastry—this is Perugia's most iconic café, family-owned since 1860, and the locals swear it has the best pastries around.

Did you manage to bring back a souvenir?

Oh, I certainly indulged in some shopping. In Florence, I found a stunning pair of red and pink velvet Mary Janes at Bramada. It was love at first sight as I glimpsed them through the window. My shopping spree continued in Venice: I picked up a marble-covered watercolor notebook from Il Papiro (plus some regular notebooks for my family), a charming Murano glass necklace from The M Venezia (just €20–25 each), and a vintage red scarf with Capri illustrations from Vintageria for only €5—perhaps a hint that Capri should be my next Italian adventure?

Discover more souvenirs at these charming shops in Rome and Florence

What’s the top tip for someone looking to replicate this trip?

The timing of this adventure was absolutely perfect: visiting in March during the shoulder season, particularly the week before Easter. The weather was pleasantly warm with highs around 15°C (60°F), the sun shone brightly, and the Easter tourists hadn’t yet flocked to the more popular destinations. I brought along a light coat for the cooler evenings and the occasional breeze.

Additionally, if you purchase a regional train ticket (unlike the chic Arlecchino), remember to validate it before boarding. Failing to do so could result in a hefty fine from ticket inspectors. Just locate one of the green machines at the platform's beginning, insert your ticket, and get it stamped. High-speed train tickets don’t require this, as they are valid for a specific service and seat.

Ann Douglas was invited to Italy by Sina Hotels. Dinogo Planet does not accept complimentary services in return for favorable coverage.

Keep our comprehensive guide to Italy handy:

Include these must-see experiences in your plans Be aware of these essential tips about Italy before you travel Begin setting your budget with these suggestions Discover the best times to steer clear of crowds