Covid-19 forces the closure of LA's Michelin-starred Trois Mec restaurant
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Trois Mec, a Michelin-star recipient since 2019, has become the latest casualty of the pandemic, which decimated its earnings and led to its closure in Los Angeles.
"We're facing an unprecedented economic downturn," said Krissy Lefebvre, who co-owns the restaurant with her husband, renowned chef Ludo Lefebvre, in a message to Dinogo.
"The road ahead for fine dining is uncertain and filled with challenges," she added.
This announcement comes just days after Governor Gavin Newsom ordered all counties to shut down indoor dining at restaurants, along with closing wineries, movie theaters, and other indoor entertainment venues. Bars were also ordered to cease all operations.
Covid-19 cases and hospitalizations continue to climb in California, as reported by the California Department of Public Health (CDPH). The state has recorded the highest number of cases (452,288) and over 8,000 deaths, according to Johns Hopkins University data.
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Trois Mec, which debuted in 2013, was a cozy 28-seat restaurant featuring an open kitchen, where Chef Ludo delighted guests with his culinary artistry, preparing meals right before their eyes.
The late Pulitzer Prize-winning critic Jonathan Gold named Trois Mec to his top 101 list, praising the restaurant in 2017 for bringing "a chef capable of running grand kitchens" who chose to cook for just 24 people at a time, from behind the counter of a converted mini-mall pizza joint, calling LA lucky to have such a talent.
"Lefebvre creates an exhilarating, spontaneous culinary experience, much like the best Parisian bistronomy chefs, blending ingredients in ways that defy traditional hierarchy," Gold wrote. "You don’t come to eat a specific dish here. You come to savor whatever Lefebvre is preparing that day."
Before launching Trois Mec, Ludo, who spent 12 years honing his craft in France, gained a reputation in Los Angeles as the 'pop-up king,' according to his website. From 2007 to 2012, he toured with 'LudoBites,' a series of pop-up restaurants that played a major role in popularizing the concept.
The Lefebvres also own Le Petit Trois, located next door to Trois Mec, which is currently offering takeout. Additionally, Petit Trois le Valley is open and offering sidewalk dining, Krissy Lefebvre confirmed.
Krissy Lefebvre stated that she and her husband will continue supporting José Andrés, the renowned chef, by preparing meals for those in need at the Trois Mec location.
"As long as it's needed, we will help José Andrés and the incredible mission of World Central Kitchen," she said, referring to the chef's charitable organization. "We will continue to hold onto the space for as long as we can."
Other well-known restaurants across Los Angeles, such as Auburn, Lucques, and Four N 20, have also been forced to close their doors after suffering financial setbacks due to the pandemic.
These closures reflect a broader national trend in the restaurant industry. According to a recent report by Yelp, sixty percent of restaurants that shut down during the pandemic will remain closed permanently.
"The restaurant industry now leads the way in business closures, having recently surpassed retail," Yelp reported. As of July 10, the site tracked a total of 26,160 restaurant closures, marking an increase of 2,179 since June 15.
Dustin Lancaster, founder and president of An Eastside Establishment, has already lost three of his 13 Los Angeles-based restaurants and bars due to the pandemic: his FireHouse Hotel bar, The Hi Hat club, and Crawford's restaurant in Burbank.
Lancaster expressed concern that five more of his establishments could close by January if the situation does not improve.
"It's almost too much for me to process, laying in bed at night, without breaking down under the sheer weight of it all," Lancaster shared with Dinogo.
Nevertheless, he maintains that indoor dining remains a dangerous activity.
"Having people inside bars and restaurants is simply unsafe," Lancaster stated. "If masks are the key to controlling this, then how can we justify letting people inside to remove their masks to eat and drink? The logic just doesn’t add up."
Lancaster added that most of his restaurants lack the space for outdoor dining and are hanging on by a thread, with a Covid-19 vaccine not expected in the immediate future.
"If we’re looking at 2021 as the best-case scenario, I’m not sure how we’re supposed to survive," Lancaster said. "Imagine driving down Sunset Blvd. and realizing that four out of five of these restaurants won’t be there anymore. The collateral damage is beyond comprehension."
They are urging customers to show their support for the proposed legislation at saverestaurants.com
"The restaurant industry is facing an unprecedented crisis," Krissy Lefebvre said. "Without adequate federal support, it will fade into history, leaving us with a stark division between life before Covid and after Covid."
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