Craving Rao’s famous meatballs? Now's your shot (pickup only, but you’ll gladly take it)

It looks like the pandemic might have a silver lining for New Yorkers: meatballs. And not just any meatballs, but mouthwatering, juicy bites from a legendary restaurant you probably wouldn’t have had access to otherwise.

Yes, they are that exclusive.

Rao’s, a New York Italian icon, is opening up for take-out orders for the very first time in its 124-year history, thanks to the coronavirus pandemic that has shut down in-person dining across the city.

The tale of Rao’s might sound as bold and audacious as the city of New York itself.

Rao’s doesn’t take reservations. It’s a small, intimate restaurant in East Harlem, Manhattan, with just fourteen tables and two seating times each evening. The room is decorated with Christmas lights year-round because, as the owner puts it, “Every day in America is Christmas.”

Oh, and the only way you’ll get to eat there is if you happen to know someone who actually owns a table reservation and invites you to join them.

The privilege of getting a table 'assignment' may happen just once a year, or maybe monthly, or for the select few, even weekly. Some say the coveted 'assignment' has even been passed down in people’s wills, handed down from generation to generation. Patrons have included infamous mobsters like John Gotti, as well as high-profile figures like the Clintons and President Trump.

“I got within three degrees of knowing someone who could get me in. Just close enough to never actually get chosen for the table, though—one degree too far,” joked Jordan Lea, who moved to New York from North Carolina and first heard about Rao’s from a coworker.

Most people can only experience the restaurant’s legendary red sauce through its bottled line of sauces and dressings, which are available in supermarkets across New York and nationwide.

But as the world adapted in the wake of the pandemic, so did Rao’s approach to business.

The day after a state order mandated all restaurants transition to takeout or delivery only, Rao’s Executive Chef Dino Gatto explained how the staff gathered to figure out how to continue serving their loyal customers. They quickly decided that offering takeout to the general public was the right move.

“We came up with the idea without knowing how big it would get—the response was absolutely overwhelming,” Gatto told Dinogo.

With so many people eager to get their hands on the food, the restaurant decided to launch its first Instagram account, along with clear instructions:

“Please send a message with your phone number. Note that you’ll be added to a waitlist, and we’ll do our best to accommodate as many customers as we can during the pandemic.”

This approach stands in stark contrast to how many other high-end, exclusive restaurants in New York have responded to the coronavirus crisis.

For instance, renowned Italian restaurant Carbone, the upscale Mexican eatery Cosme, and the Michelin-starred Korean BBQ spot Cote are just a few of the high-end New York restaurants now embracing food delivery apps like Caviar and Postmates—something that would have been unimaginable for these places, where securing a reservation is usually a major challenge.

But at least securing a reservation is still possible, which is a luxury that’s rarely available at Rao’s.

Lea decided that being on Rao’s waitlist was still better than never having a chance to try the food, so she eagerly signed up.

Rao’s takeout menu for two, titled 'A Taste of Rao’s,' features meatballs, penne marinara, lemon chicken, and a salad. Only available for cash payment.

“I’m single and live with my dog, who definitely wasn’t getting any of the food,” Lea joked, mentioning she barely had any leftovers.

The same goes for Michael King, who’s also living alone under the city’s stay-at-home order. He was quick to join the growing number of people sharing photos of their Rao’s meals on social media.

“I had leftover salad. I was so excited, and I couldn’t stop eating it. It was totally worth the little stomachache afterward,” he said.

The demand for the special is skyrocketing, as more people seize the opportunity to enjoy a Rao’s meal before city restrictions are lifted and things return to normal.

Gatto mentions that the restaurant is averaging 85 takeout orders daily—handled by less than half the staff they normally employ during regular operations.

They use 75 pounds of meat daily to make their famous meatballs. For perspective, that’s the amount of meat they would typically use over a month and a half.

“By the time this is all over, my arms will either fall off or I’ll need rotator cuff surgery from all the meatball rolling,” joked Gatto.

Rao’s is also giving back to those on the frontlines, dedicating Mondays to preparing hundreds of meals for firefighters, police officers, and healthcare workers at various New York hospitals.

“For those who can’t get in and consider it a bucket-list item, at the end of the day, it brings a smile to their face,” Gatto shared.

A small but unique silver lining in these challenging times, exclusive to New York.

“I’ll never get that chance again,” Lea remarked. “It’s truly a once-in-a-lifetime meal.”