Culinary Delights: top spots for dining and drinking in Buenos Aires

While Buenos Aires is still celebrated for its exceptional parrillas (steakhouses), the city’s food and drink landscape has exploded over the last decade.

From modern bodegones and hip bistros to new wine bars and acclaimed cocktail lounges, Buenos Aires is emerging as a culinary hotspot. Michelin released its inaugural Argentina restaurant guide in November, coinciding with 14 venues making the Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants 2023 list.

Now's the time to grab your stretchy pants and secure some dinner reservations.

Morning Meals

My day begins with a caffeine boost, and I often stroll over to La Noire, a charming café just five blocks away, located at the edge of Villa Crespo and Chacarita. This French-owned gem won me over during the pandemic with its small sidewalk bench, two-for-one cappuccinos, and wonderfully warm service.

Even though the discount days have passed, my favorite barista, Estefanía, still crafts stunning latte art. Arrive at 9 am when it opens, and you’ll find the sunlight illuminating the vintage decor just right. The mint-hued walls often feature a photography exhibit, while the eclectic playlist flows from electro-pop to jazz. I prefer a light and savory breakfast, so I usually get a flat white and a fluffy sourdough croissant.

For a heartier breakfast, I opt for the delectable ham and cheese toasted sandwich on gluten-free bread at Las Flores in Palermo Hollywood. Nestled in an urban garden, brunch surrounded by 600 blooming plants is a peaceful way to kick off the weekend.

Coffee Culture

Chacarita, my home for the past 11 years, boasts a variety of fantastic specialty coffee shops. Cuervo on Newbery has a trendy vibe, roasting beans on-site with outstanding coffee and a pet-friendly atmosphere. Just down the street is Silvestre, a bright corner spot where drinks are served to your table instead of calling out names. I also frequent Stracqua for an invigorating espresso, and Salvaje Bakery, where lattes are presented in stunning handmade mugs. I can’t resist grabbing a sourdough loaf to bring home.

Lunch Time

In La Paternal's upcycled industrial bakery, Jazmín Marturet crafts dishes inspired by her travels throughout Southeast Asia. I adore her pâté bánh mì (pork liver pâté) and larb gai issan, a vibrant spicy chicken salad. MN Santa Inés is open solely for lunch, with a menu that shifts every fortnight, offering some of the best value in the city. It's a genuine local hangout for a quick bite, but weekends get busy, so reservations are a must.

In the same neighborhood, Tita La Vedette recently transitioned from a successful takeout vegan pasta spot to a permanent establishment. Its all-female kitchen experiments with ramen, and I particularly enjoy the whimsical trifungi—mushroom-filled triangles drizzled with a luscious pesto-and-cashew cream sauce.

Aperitivo Time

The enticing wine-by-the-glass options keep me returning to Anchoita Cava in Chacarita. This charming wine bar boasts an extensive collection of Argentine vintages alongside some exceptional European selections, all elegantly served in lovely glassware. Anchoita Cava draws a trendy crowd, with many stopping by just to sample the 100-plus cheese varieties available. I often opt for a sharp Cheddar for a hint of the UK. If it’s crowded, check out Naranjo Bar or Lardito, both hip spots within walking distance.

Dinner Time

Bib Gourmand-selected Mengano offers superb cuisine at excellent prices. Chef Facundo Kelemen swapped legal textbooks for culinary ones and now crafts modern takes on traditional porteño dishes in Palermo, like revuelto Gramajo, a delightful mix of ham, eggs, and potatoes.

Depending on my company, I might sit at the kitchen counter to observe the chefs or cozy up on the comfortable sofa at a table for four. For a more private gathering, I’ll reserve the intimate dining room that also serves as a wine cellar. I usually kick things off with the tiny empanadas (filled with wagyu beef and a hint of lemon zest) and savor them in one bite as they burst with flavor.

Next, I’ll enjoy the crunchy seafood rice featuring scallops, followed by the ñoqui chipá soufflé, heavenly gnocchi served in a rich black pudding broth. With a nice bottle of wine, the total comes to about US$40 at the blue exchange rate (for cash dollars). It’s wise to reserve a table, especially since the November Bib Gourmand excitement, but the team always keeps a few walk-in spots available.

Bar Scene

After a night of dining, I often find myself lured into La Uat for a drink and some dancing. Tucked away behind the deli counter of Cacho Rotisería (famous for its vegan hotdogs that satisfy late-night cravings), this speakeasy is right in the heart of Palermo Soho. Step through the palm-adorned curtains to reveal two vibrant bars, both illuminated with neon lights. The terrace buzzes with lively crowds dancing to reggaetón, but I prefer the downstairs vibe, where I can groove to 80s and 90s hits beneath a massive disco ball, sipping on a refreshing lemon champetta cocktail. I usually make it home by 1 am on a school night, but at least I’ve enjoyed a fun evening, even if it's early by Argentine standards.