Delicious Eats at Costa Rica’s Vibrant Mercado Central

In Costa Rica, navigating the landscape often relies on landmarks rather than a formal addressing system. While street and house numbers do exist, many locals give directions based on nearby notable places: homes of historical figures, government buildings, statues, and even specific trees can all serve as reference points. If a location is well-known, it’s likely to be included in directions. Among these landmarks, the Mercado Central stands out as the most iconic.

Founded in 1880 and situated in downtown San José, the Mercado Central stretches over an entire block along Avenida Central. It’s a maze of narrow passages filled with herbal remedies, flowers, local crafts, leather goods, spices, and of course, a diverse array of food.

Roberto Campos, the Mercado Central’s administrator, describes it as Costa Rica’s original mall. However, to call it merely a mall would overlook its deep cultural significance. The Mercado plays a crucial role in Costa Rican life, preserving home remedies, staple dishes, local crafts, and traditions that have thrived for over a century. It was officially recognized as a cultural patrimony in 1995.

One of the enduring attractions of the market is the sodas — small cafeteria-style Mytouries that have served the same menus for generations. These informal dining spots offer some of the best traditional Costa Rican cuisine from across the nation. However, without clear signage, discovering the top sodas requires some effort: asking fellow customers or vendors for recommendations can lead you to the most popular spots.

It's often said that anyone visiting the Mercado will experience two things: getting lost and getting sidetracked. The Mercado’s layout has evolved naturally over time, lacking any formal planning. This chaotic arrangement explains why you might find a soda shop selling empanadas right next to a jewelry store, or a flower stall positioned in front of a spice vendor. Some sodas are easily visible, while others are tucked away, so asking for recommendations can help, but the best approach is to wander and explore.

As of now, the Costa Rican Ministry of Health’s COVID-19 regulations still mandate the closure of all bars and cantinas, including those within the Mercado Central. However, the food stalls and other businesses remain open daily from 6 a.m. to 6 p.m. Some vendors accept cards and U.S. dollars, but it’s advisable to use Costa Rican colones. Here’s what to seek out for an authentic Mercado Central experience.

Breakfast

Costa Rica’s most famous breakfast dish, and arguably the most iconic meal overall, is gallo pinto. This delightful mix of rice and beans is combined until the bean broth is fully absorbed by the rice. A typical gallo pinto breakfast comes with fried plantains, corn tortillas, fresh cheese or sour cream, and a protein option like bacon, sausage, fried eggs, fried cheese, or steak.

At the Mercado Central, nearly every soda has its unique spin on this classic dish. Soda Tapia, a beloved Mytoury established in 1893, offers a gallo pinto enriched with plenty of olores (the Costa Rican version of sofrito, made with onion, cilantro, and sweet bell peppers), along with optional sides like fried eggs, fried cheese, and slices of buttered bread.

Soda Tala offers a unique twist on gallo pinto called the Talapinto, featuring a delicate egg omelet with chives, a generous serving of pinto beans, and topped with slices of fried salchichón (sausage). Created by Natalia Cervantes, affectionately known as “Tala,” the Talapinto gained such popularity that she trademarked the name at the request of her customers.

Another beloved breakfast option here is the tortilla con queso or tortilla aliñada. Soda San Martín, which has been around since 1910, serves two variations: the classic tortilla, incorporating fresh cheese into the white corn masa, and the tortilla rellena, a sumptuous version stuffed with generous amounts of aged cheese and accompanied by sour cream.

Gallos and Other Small Bites

A gallo, according to Costa Rican food historian Marjorie Ross, refers to anything that can be wrapped in a corn tortilla. This means almost anything can qualify as a gallo, and everything tastes better when it’s one. A single gallo makes for a delightful appetizer, while a couple can serve as a fulfilling lunch. You’ll find gallos in nearly every soda within the Mercado, just choose your favorite filling.

At Soda San Bosco, located next to Soda San José, you can try a gallo de chile relleno (fried peppers stuffed with beef served over corn tortillas) or a gallo de barbudos (battered and fried green beans). There’s even a gallo de canelón, which consists of fried cannelloni filled with minced beef.

Gallos are an excellent way to savor a tasty picadillo. This dish, made with finely minced beef, vegetables, and spices, is essential in Costa Rican cuisine. Don't miss the potato and chorizo variant from Soda Flor del Carmen, where the earthy flavor of achiote, a popular red spice in Central and South America, enhances the chorizo's kick.

And let's not forget the iconic empanada, a stuffed and fried pocket of white corn masa that serves as a beloved street snack across Costa Rica and much of Latin America. Recipes differ by region, and many can be found in the Mercado. Empanadas from Soda Puntarenas are considered some of the finest in San José, perfectly spiced and crispy. Soda San Martín offers crunchy, herbed masa that pairs wonderfully with cheese, while Soda Flor del Carmen features creative fillings like pizza-flavored empanadas and those filled with potato picadillo.

Lunch and Larger Plates

Almost every soda at the Mercado Central has its unique interpretation of the Costa Rican casado, a traditional plate consisting of rice, beans, a protein (often grilled or breaded chicken, pork chop, steak and onions, or fish), and salad. While the structure is simple, the individual twists from each soda are what truly captivate.

At Soda San José, the casado features your choice of chicken in tomato sauce or breaded fish, paired with hearty sides like parboiled potatoes and spaghetti. The owner, doña Tere, is always ready to ask if you’d like extra salad or tortillas. Meanwhile, Soda Cristal offers a different take, serving either breaded chicken or fish alongside a twist on Russian beet salad, spaghetti, tortilla chips, picadillo, and a bowl of beef broth known as sustancia.

Soda San Martín, also known for its casados, is famous for another Costa Rican classic — olla de carne, a beef and vegetable stew simmered for hours until the meat is tender and flaky. This dish is served in three separate bowls: one with clear beef broth, another with meat and vegetables, and a third with plain white rice. While you could sample each bowl alone, the traditional way is to gradually combine the rice and vegetables into the broth for a delightful mix.

As a hub for various regional cuisines, the Mercado Central prominently features marisquerías, or fish shops, from the Pacific Coast. Don’t miss the arroz con camarones (stir-fried rice with shrimp) at Marisquería Costa Rica, the fish soup at Marisquería San José, or the fried sea bass at Soda Cristal.

Coffee and Dessert

In a country famed for its exceptional coffee, stopping by Cafetería Central for a cup is essential before you leave the market. Be sure to order a café chorreado, a traditional Costa Rican pour-over method that utilizes a wooden stand and a cotton sack instead of a paper filter.

For a sweet treat, La Sorbetera de Lolo Mora serves helado de sorbetera, or artisanal ice cream. The term “sorbetera” refers to the hand-crank ice cream maker used here. They offer just one flavor, but it’s all you’ll want: a delicately spiced vanilla ice cream infused with nutmeg, cinnamon, and clove, made the same way by the Mora family for over a century.

If you’re seeking variety, don’t miss the specialty scoops at Soda Tapia, featuring unique flavors like cas (a cousin of guava) and soursop, all generously topped with chopped tropical fruits and a mountain of cherry gelatin.

Sofía González is a writer based in San José, focusing on Costa Rican food, culture, and technology.