Desert X: The Largest Art Event in Coachella Valley—Here’s Your Guide to Experiencing It

The biennial outdoor art festival Desert X has returned in all its unique and thought-provoking splendor, running until May 7. Recognized as one of Southern California’s premier art events, Desert X features expansive, free art installations for the public (previous exhibits have included a piece reminiscent of the Hollywood sign that read “Indian Land” and a gas station draped in silk and tulle). This year’s sculptures address topics ranging from the fragile environmental conditions of the Salton Sea to the narratives of Black and Indigenous women in the U.S. Since Desert X occurs only every two years, it’s advisable to plan ahead to maximize your visit.

Here’s all the essential information for planning your trip to Desert X 2023:

What is Desert X?

Desert X is a biennial contemporary art exhibition set in the Coachella Valley, specifically designed for its unique locations. Established in 2017 by the nonprofit organization Desert Biennial, it aims to foster discussions about pressing social, cultural, and environmental issues through art. The creators of Desert Biennial appreciated how art can ignite conversation but felt confined by traditional museums—so they turned to the expansive Southern Californian desert as an ideal alternative to walls and doors.

In its first year, Desert X showcased bold exhibits, including an underground bunker featuring a sculpture of John F. Kennedy and a ‘ShyBot’ designed by Italian artist Norma Jeane that was programmed to avoid human interaction. Over the past six years, Desert X has expanded significantly, even launching a Saudi Arabian edition in partnership with the Royal Commission of AlUla. This year, Desert X will highlight the works of 12 international artists, whose large-scale installations will be thoughtfully placed at various locations throughout the Coachella Valley.

How to Experience Desert X

Desert X runs from March 4 to May 7, 2023, with installations open for public viewing from sunrise to sunset. As always, attendance is free. Visitors can enjoy a flexible, self-guided experience, exploring as many or as few sculptures as they choose, spreading their visit over several days, or experiencing everything in one afternoon. Desert X encourages a leave no trace policy, so guests should take any trash or waste they generate with them as they explore the art installations.

Before embarking on your journey to discover the 12 sculptures showcased this year, make sure to stop by the Desert X Hub at the Ace Hotel and Swim Club. There, you can grab a program, explore some merchandise, and ask volunteers any questions you might have. The Hub is open Fridays from 1:30 p.m. to 5 p.m., and Saturdays and Sundays from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Docents will be available at most installations every Saturday from 10 a.m. to noon. The organization also suggests downloading the official app for directions to each site and information on the artists and their works. Since many pieces are outdoors, wearing comfortable walking shoes, bringing plenty of water, and a good hat is highly recommended.

Must-See Installations at Desert X

The theme of Desert X 2023 revolves around water—its transformative effects on landscapes, its essential life-giving qualities, and its scarcity in desert regions. This year, 12 artists are featured, including Rana Begum, Lauren Bon, Gerald Clarke, Palma Contreras Lomas, Torkwase Dyson, Mario Garciá Torres, Hylozoic/Desires, Matt Johnson, Tschabalala Self, Marina Tabassum, Héctor Zamora, and the late Tyre Nichols. (Zamora’s piece involved a performance on March 3 and 4, while Desert X has commissioned a film highlighting Tabassum’s work in creating modular homes in Bangladesh, available for viewing on its website.) While all the sculptures are intellectually stimulating, be sure not to miss these four highlights:

“Namak Nazar”

• Artist: Hylozoic/Desires
• Location: Worsley Road, between Pierson and Mission Lakes boulevards

Hylozoic/Desires, the London-based artist duo of Himali Singh Soin and David Soin Tappeser, typically draws inspiration from jazz and poetry. However, their piece Namak Nazar explores the rise of rapidly spreading conspiracy theories (think lizard people, chemtrails, and UFOs) alongside one of Earth’s most ubiquitous minerals: salt. Namak Nazar features a wooden pole with a scattering of salt around its base and loudspeakers that broadcast a fictional conspiracy about a salt compound called namak nazar, which supposedly has the power to combat climate change—if only people would turn their gaze inward.

“Originals”

• Artist: Tyre Nichols
• Location: N. Gene Autry Trail, between Via Escuela and the I-10

This series of billboards along N. Gene Autry Trail showcases photographs by Tyre Nichols, who was tragically murdered in January in Memphis, just steps from his mother’s home, by five police officers. The exhibition highlights the vibrancy of Nichols’ life and his exceptional eye for beauty, while also underscoring the senselessness of his death. “My vision is to immerse my viewers in what I see through my eye and out through my lens,” he expressed about his photographs. “I hope to someday allow people to see through my perspective and appreciate my work based on its quality and ideals.”

“Sleeping Figure”

• Artist: Matt Johnson
• Location: I-10 Exit 110, Haugen-Lehmann Way to Railroad Avenue

Matt Johnson’s Sleeping Figure has garnered significant attention at Desert X this year, largely due to its impressive scale. Made up of 12 shipping containers arranged to resemble a classic odalisque, the sculpture comments on the intricacies and vulnerabilities of the global supply chain. It also brings to mind the incident when a container ship—owned by a Japanese company, operated by a Taiwanese crew, managed by a German firm, flagged in Panama, and staffed by Indians—blocked the Suez Canal for over six days. Recently, Sleeping Figure made headlines for violating Riverside County code and being deemed a “public nuisance,” with code enforcement placing violation notices directly on the sculpture.

“Pioneer”

• Artist: Tschabalala Self
• Location: San Gorgonio Street and Bubbling Wells Road, Desert Hot Springs

Tschabalala Self’s sculpture, Pioneer, stands out as one of the most thought-provoking pieces at Desert X this year. It features a woman’s torso and legs elegantly balanced atop a bowing horse. This work serves as a tribute to what Self refers to as the American “foremothers”—the Black and Indigenous women whose bodies and labor helped shape the nation. While it may provoke a strong reaction at first glance, Pioneer aims to celebrate the feminine spirit and reclaim the vital role of Black and Indigenous women in the U.S. narrative. Self is a Black woman artist based in New Haven.

Where to stay in the greater Palm Springs region

As the official cultural partner and primary hotel for Desert X, the Ace Hotel and Swim Club in Palm Springs is offering a 15 percent discount on stays when you book directly using the promo code DESERTX. For additional options, here are some of Dinogo’s top hotel picks in the Coachella Valley.

Autocamp Joshua Tree

Autocamp Joshua Tree features 47 beautifully renovated Airstreams and eight suites spread across 25 acres of desert adjacent to Joshua Tree National Park. Each unit comes equipped with queen-size beds, locally crafted furniture, and kitchenettes; most include private bathrooms. Guests can also enjoy a stylish clubhouse inspired by midcentury modern design, where they can indulge in organic comfort food and sip on Californian beverages.

The Bungalows by Homestead Modern

This boutique hotel in Joshua Tree offers stunning desert views, midcentury-modern accommodations, and a touch of New Age charm. Guests can expect expansive sliding glass doors, polished concrete flooring, and original post-and-beam ceilings. The Bungalows are situated within the Joshua Tree Retreat Center, also known as the Institute of Mentalphysics, which focuses on enhancing physical and emotional wellness through Eastern-inspired practices. It boasts the world’s largest collection of buildings designed by Lloyd Wright, the son of Frank Lloyd Wright.

Azure Sky

This adults-only hotel perfectly blends midcentury-modern charm with desert-inspired elegance. Azure Sky features 14 rooms, 11 of which include private patios, alongside a heated pool and a cocktail bar on-site. It’s just a five-minute drive from the vibrant downtown Palm Springs.

Trixie Motel

The Trixie Motel, owned by the renowned drag queen Trixie Mattel, opened its doors in September 2022 and is as wonderfully pink and fabulous as you might imagine. The property boasts seven uniquely themed rooms, such as “The Queen of Hearts” and “Yeehaw Cowgirl.” While there isn’t a full-service restaurant available, a quaint café serves light snacks like margherita pizza and sweet-and-salty popcorn.