Dinogo’s Exploration of Tōhoku: Japan’s Hub for Sake, Wagyu, and Sea Pineapples
In the globally cherished culinary landscape of Japan, major cities often take the spotlight. Currently, Tokyo boasts the highest number of Michelin-starred Mytouries worldwide. Yet, these culinary hotspots owe their existence to regions like Tōhoku, a mountainous area just a couple of hours north of the capital via bullet train, providing much of the nation's finest produce and seafood.
The scenery here resembles something from Hayao Miyazaki’s film My Neighbor Totoro: clear blue skies dotted with fluffy clouds over snow-capped mountains and vast, lush green fields. This unspoiled environment is perfect for raising wagyu cattle and marine delicacies like uni, as well as cultivating rice and producing sake, alongside bountiful fruits such as giant peaches, tomatoes, and sweet apples. However, not all of this harvest is sent to Tokyo; local chefs transform the freshest ingredients from land and sea into exquisite dishes at a fraction of the cost found in major cities.
Outside Japan, Tōhoku might be recognized due to the devastating earthquake of 2011, the most powerful recorded in the country’s history, which triggered a tsunami that obliterated homes and devastated fisheries and rice fields. The catastrophe resulted in the loss of thousands of lives and led to the nuclear crisis in Fukushima Prefecture. In response, Japan initiated a massive cleanup operation led by young volunteers—many of whom had left Tōhoku for larger cities—who returned to assist in clearing debris and providing shelter to those displaced.
In the years that followed, fishermen and farmers have diligently rebuilt their livelihoods and restored consumer confidence in their food (which is completely safe to consume). Their efforts have borne fruit: twelve years post-disaster, Tōhoku has made a remarkable recovery, fueled by the dedication of its residents and a revitalized tourism industry. The region has blossomed into a vibrant culinary landscape, with restaurateurs who returned after the earthquake finding renewed pride in their hometowns. For many Japanese people, Tōhoku symbolizes rebirth and resilience, a place that respects its agricultural traditions while evolving its food culture for the future.
Wagyu beef, seafood, sake, and miso—four of Tōhoku’s renowned culinary treasures.
What defines Tōhoku cuisine?
Covering 26,000 square miles in the northeastern tip of Honshu, Tōhoku comprises six prefectures: Akita, Aomori, Fukushima, Iwate, Miyagi, and Yamagata. The region’s cool climate and rugged coastlines have historically established it as a hub for fishing and agriculture, particularly rice cultivation.
Tōhoku accounts for 30 percent of Japan’s total rice production, boasting the highest per capita output. Akita and Yamagata are especially renowned for their flavorful rice varieties. This abundant harvest has inspired local delicacies like Akita’s kiritanpo, a sticky rice cylinder skewered on a cedar stick and grilled to perfection.
Much of this rice is transformed into sake, with Fukushima Prefecture earning the title “Sake Kingdom” due to its long-standing status as a production center. In historic castle towns like Aizuwakamatsu, you can explore breweries that have been crafting sake since the feudal era, when agricultural lands were managed by daimyo and safeguarded by samurai.
Tōhoku is also home to a vibrant fishing industry. The stunning Sanriku coastline stretches about 100 miles along the Pacific Ocean, encompassing Aomori, Iwate, and Miyagi—hence the name Sanriku, meaning “three shores.” This area is regarded as one of the world’s premier fishing grounds, thanks to its location at the junction of three nutrient-rich currents. Delicacies like sea urchin, scallops, oysters, and fatty fish such as mackerel thrive in these deep, blue-green waters. The coastal food culture celebrates this rich harvest, particularly during the autumn sanma festivals, where vendors serve up countless free charbroiled Pacific saury seasoned with a hint of salt.
Essential Tips Before You Visit
Iwate Wagyu: The term “Wagyu” encompasses four breeds of Japanese cattle, originating from a cross of native and imported breeds in the early 20th century. Wagyu is often identified by its region, such as the famous Kobe beef from Hyōgo Prefecture. While Tōhoku’s Iwate beef may not be as globally recognized, it has won the top honor at the Tokyo Meat Market—a prestigious annual event featuring the best cattle from across the country—11 times, more than any other region. Particularly prized is Iwate Tankaku wagyu, which comes from Japanese shorthorn cows and is characterized by its mild marbling and tender, flavorful red meat.
Hoya: The shallow waters of Sanriku are inhabited by a unique ascidian known as hoya, or sea squirt/sea pineapple, found only in this region. Shaped like a bright red heart, hoya can be enjoyed either raw or cooked, boasting a strong clam-like flavor with notes of bitterness and sweetness.
Gathering sea pineapples in Ishinomaki, located in Miyagi Prefecture.Takayuki Atsumi showcasing his haul of sea pineapples.Kōji: Beyond being a top rice-growing region, Tōhoku has a long history as a premier producer of kōji, or rice inoculated with mold culture. This fermented ingredient is essential for enhancing the savory and sweet notes in staples like soy sauce, mirin, miso, and sake. Look for kōji products from Fukushima’s Horaiya Honten, including amazake, a creamy malt rice drink reputed to boost skin and gut health.
Best Time to Visit: Tōhoku’s parks burst into cotton candy hues during cherry blossom season, making spring one of the most enchanting times to visit. Sakura season typically occurs from mid-April to early May, slightly later than the rest of Japan due to the northern climate. Gather your friends for a picnic near the stunning black-and-white Hirosaki Castle in Aomori Prefecture, where about 2,600 cherry trees bloom, with the oldest planted by the Tsugaru clan in 1715.
Summer is another fantastic season to explore Tōhoku, as the weather is pleasantly sunny and not overly humid, perfect for enjoying the region's peak produce. Visit in early August for the Three Great Summer Festivals: the Nebuta Matsuri in Aomori, the Kanto Matsuri in Akita, and Sendai’s Tanabata Matsuri. These festivals feature dazzling displays of neon floats, towering lanterns, and giant streamers, alongside vibrant parades of musicians and dancers. Attendees can participate in traditional rituals—such as hanging a paper fishnet at Tanabata Matsuri—to ensure bountiful catches and harvests in the fall.
Transportation: The shinkansen (bullet train) network makes traveling between Tōhoku’s major cities a breeze. From Tokyo Station, you can reach Fukushima in just 90 minutes.
Edo miso meal served at Kura Cafe.Dining Options
Fukushima Prefecture
Just 30 minutes south of Fukushima City lies the picturesque castle town of Nihonmatsu, which has been Tōhoku’s sake-making hub since the feudal period. Daishichi is still operated by the samurai descendants who founded the brewery in 1752. Be sure to sample a flight of sake produced using the traditional kimoto method, a labor-intensive technique that creates a complex and smooth flavor. Nearby, the Okunomatsu Brewery was established by a family of ronin in 1716. While they focus on craftsmanship, they now embrace modern technology in their sake production.
Nihonmatsu is also home to Kunitaya, a quaint miso factory specializing in the fermented soybean paste since the Edo period. The family has transformed a charming wooden storehouse into Kura Cafe, where they serve homestyle lunches. Enjoy a variety of small plates, including zaku zaku soup with diced vegetables, kōji-fermented treats like sagohachi pickles, and miso-filled onigiri in unique flavors such as yuzu citrus and ginger.
Shoji Yusa, president of the Okunomatsu sake brewery and a descendant of samurai.Daishichi sake.An hour’s drive west will bring you to Kitakata, a haven for ramen lovers. This town boasts the highest number of ramen shops per capita in Japan, with locals often enjoying the noodle soup for breakfast. Sample Kitakata’s unique ramen at Genraiken, which has been serving a light yet complex soy sauce-based broth with chewy, medium-thick noodles since 1927. Don’t miss the line at Ban Nai, known for its nearly clear broth made from mountain water, complemented by tender slices of simmered pork belly.
Travel an hour southeast to experience Kōriyama’s nearly black, soy sauce-based ramen, contrasting with Kitakata’s lighter style. Masuya and Masuhan were pioneers in bringing this dark yet surprisingly smooth version to the forefront, earning it a growing fanbase among ramen enthusiasts.
Miyagi Prefecture
Sendai, the largest city in Miyagi Prefecture, is famed as the birthplace of gyūtan: grilled beef tongue served with oxtail soup, barley rice, and pickled vegetables. In 1948, chef Keishiro Sano, inspired by a French colleague, created a Japanese interpretation of this dish at Aji Tasuke. Today, Gyūtan Kaku is renowned for its thick, juicy slices of meat, featuring a delightful crisp exterior.
After indulging in a satisfying beef tongue feast, join the locals in exploring Sendai, affectionately known as the City of Trees, characterized by its streets lined with lush Japanese zelkovas. Enjoy traditional snacks as you stroll, such as sasakama, a grilled fish cake shaped like a bamboo leaf. Made from fresh rockfish paste, sasakama boasts a springy texture and can be enhanced with savory toppings like rock salt and cheese.
Next, treat yourself to zunda mochi, a sweet delicacy originating from Sendai. This rice cake features young edamame mashed with sugar and salt, forming a vibrant green paste molded into a chunky cake. You can find these delightful snacks at Sendai Station or in the bustling shopping and dining areas like Jōzenji and Aoba Streets.
An auction taking place at the Ishinomaki fish market.The charming city of Ishinomaki has been a vital port since the 1620s and is now home to the world’s longest fish market, a testament to its rich maritime heritage. At dawn, fishing boats arrive with plentiful catches, including prized Matsushima oysters and Ezo abalone. A lively auction ensues as colorful seafood is displayed in rows of containers.
Once the day's hustle settles down, fishermen enjoy lunch at Genki Shokudo, a simple cafeteria serving hearty portions of sardine ramen and rice bowls heaped with vibrant red salmon roe. Below the dining area, Genki Ichiba offers a food market where visitors can purchase tinned and vacuum-sealed seafood to take home.
Each evening, Imamura turns the day’s freshest catch into a refined, multicourse kaiseki meal. Chef Masateru Imamura relocated to Ishinomaki to volunteer after the 2011 disaster and decided to stay and open his eponymous restaurant. Take a seat at the counter to see his team craft plates of sashimi adorned with rainbow sauces and innovative dishes like mackerel served with edamame and couscous.
A seafood creation at Genki Shokudo.A dish served at Imamura.Iwate Prefecture
Iwate’s pristine spring water and its circular farming methods—where small, sustainable farms cultivate both cattle and crops—create the perfect environment for producing clean and flavorful beef. Savor the subtleties of Iwate wagyu at the yakiniku restaurant Ginga Rikyu, where diners are presented with six varieties of raw beef slices, each showcasing different fat content and textures. Lightly grill the slices at your table and enjoy them with dipping sauces like apple-ginger to enhance their umami flavor.
A culinary journey through Iwate wouldn’t be complete without sampling the Three Great Noodles of Morioka: wanko soba, jajamen, and reimen. The Azumaya Soba Shop, established in 1907, is renowned for its all-you-can-eat wanko soba experience. Instead of serving one large portion, the staff continuously presents small servings of buckwheat noodles, stacking the empty bowls instead of refilling them, all while cheerfully chanting the playful phrase: “Jan jan, don don!” Just don’t attempt to beat the astonishing record of 570 bowls consumed in a single sitting.
Though jajamen is enjoyed throughout the year, these hearty noodles are especially comforting during the frigid winters of Morioka. Inspired by China’s zhajiangmian, this dish combines thick, udon-like noodles with a savory miso meat sauce and is topped with sliced cucumber or pickled vegetables. Experience the original jajamen at Pairon, where you can customize it with hot chili sauce and grated garlic to your liking.
During the summer, locals find relief with reimen, a chilled noodle dish reminiscent of North Korean naengmyeon. Seirokaku serves these chewy, semi-transparent noodles in a refreshing beef broth, accompanied by homemade kimchi that adds a vivid red hue to the soup.
Iwate’s renowned soba.Iwate beef sourced from Nakamura Farm.Where to stay
Hotel Juraku
Nestled in Iizaka Onsen, just 30 minutes from Fukushima City, Hotel Juraku offers a serene escape that has been cherished for over a millennium. The traditional suites feature low chabudai tables, sliding shoji screens, tatami mats, and views of the Surikami River. Enjoy the shared onsen baths filled with naturally spring-fed water, available at varying temperatures and carbonation levels. Wrap yourself in a yukata robe and indulge in gyoza and grilled fish at the extensive international buffet. Rooms start at $174.27-27 Nishitakinomachi, Iizakamachi, Fukushima City, Fukushima Prefecture 960-0201
Hotel Metropolitan Morioka
Located just steps from Morioka’s main train station, Hotel Metropolitan is an ideal base for city exploration. Wake up in spacious rooms equipped with modern amenities, and enjoy a breakfast buffet featuring local Iwate delicacies. Don’t miss the sekai ichi apple slices, farm-fresh milk and yogurt, and Hitomebore short-grain rice known for its slight stickiness. The hotel’s restaurants also offer seasonal dishes like conch and simmered mushrooms. Rooms start at $68.1-44, Moriokaekimaedori, Morioka, Iwate Prefecture 020-0034
Saryou Souen
Approximately 1,500 years ago, Emperor Kinmei visited Akiu Onsen in Miyagi, seeking relief for his skin issues. According to historical accounts, he fully recovered, leading wellness enthusiasts to enjoy the healing waters of the Natori River ever since. Experience the elegant luxury of Saryou Souen resort, which resembles a classic scroll painting, complete with a Zen garden, koi pond, and cascading waterfalls. Relax in the soothing open-air baths, indulge in a facial or massage, and savor a seasonal dinner served in your room. Rates start at $1,330.Aza Kamado Higashi, Yumoto, Sendai City, Miyagi Prefecture 982-0241
Hotel El Faro
Situated 30 minutes east of Ishinomaki, Hotel El Faro consists of about 40 mobile homes with a significant history. Following the devastation of the local fishing port by the 2011 tsunami, hoteliers transformed these mobile homes into emergency housing for families in need. These temporary shelters have since been repurposed into cozy accommodations painted a vibrant blue. El Faro, meaning 'lighthouse' in Spanish, stands as a beacon for travelers in Tōhoku and a testament to the community's resilience and determination to rebuild. Rooms start at $81.2-1-2, Onagawa, Onagawa-cho, Oshika-gun, Miyagi Prefecture 986-2265
Tetsuo Nakamura at his farm, renowned for producing Iwate beef.La Carmina is an acclaimed travel, food, and culture blogger and journalist, with features in Travel & Leisure, AFAR, and Time magazine, among others. She hosts travel shows globally — including coverage in Japan for the Travel Channel — and has authored four books published by Simon & Schuster and Penguin Random House, including The Little Book of Satanism. Follow her journeys across more than 70 countries @LaCarmina.
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