Dinogo’s Guide to Megève: The Ski Town for Food Lovers in the French Alps

Among the eight countries that the Alps span, France boasts some of the most cherished and globally recognized destinations. Each winter, avid skiers and snowboarders flock to the Three Valleys — the largest linked ski area in the world, encompassing the resorts of Courchevel 1850, Val Thorens, Méribel, and Les Menuires — alongside charming historic towns like Chamonix, which hosted the 1924 Winter Olympics and is often hailed as Europe’s mountaineering capital.

While its neighbors draw in expert skiers and glacier trekkers, Megève has established itself as the culinary hub among the region's elite resorts. As snow blankets the landscape outside grand picture windows, diners savor decadent pots of fondue in beautifully crafted wooden chalets, raise artisanal cocktails while nestled on plush faux fur and leather couches, celebrate late into the night with culinary icons, and indulge in Michelin-starred alpine dishes from some of the nation’s top chefs. With an even more enchanting atmosphere than Chamonix and a more relaxed vibe than the Three Valleys, Megève is cherished by both mountain novices and devoted foodies who see winter sports as merely a warm-up for après-ski.

In 1911, Megève became a stop on the Tour de France, and in 1926, Baroness Noémie de Rothschild established a resort at the base of Mont d’Arbois to rival the elegance of St. Moritz in Switzerland. Over the past century, this former farming village has transformed into a picturesque town, complete with horse-drawn carriages, cobblestone streets, enchanting forests, and iconic chalets. Particularly after WWII, France's elite, including the renowned Jean Cocteau, solidified Megève's status as a luxurious alpine retreat. Similar to Aspen, which began as a mining hub, Megève has evolved into a haven for affluent winter sports enthusiasts, though it still offers affordable activities like snowshoeing and dining options such as traditional fondue and a growing selection of cocktail bars and shared plate venues.

Meredith Erickson succinctly captures it in her extensive mountain cookbook, Alpine Cooking, noting that while the French Alps may be smaller than other European ski areas, “the quality of the cuisine and wines is inversely proportional to its size.”

WHAT IS FRENCH ALPINE CUISINE?

Megève didn't make its mark on the fine dining scene until the late 1990s, largely due to Emmanuel Renaut, a Meilleur Ouvrier de France and chef at the three-Michelin-starred Flocons de Sel. “When I first arrived, ski resorts focused solely on skiing. The food was good but basic, not something to seek out for a dining experience,” he recalls. Beyond fondue, no one was delving into seasonal, local cuisine. After training under celebrity chef Marc Veyrat, an advocate for rustic cooking and local sourcing, Renaut opened the original Flocons de Sel in 1998, showcasing local freshwater fish like pike perch, fera, and arctic char; cultivating his own herb and vegetable gardens; raising bees for honey; and keeping chickens. As a self-identified messenger of the mountain, Renaut's nature-centric approach inspired rising culinary talents like Anthony Bisquerra and Julien Gatillon, and motivated established chefs like Eric Frechon of Le Bristol and Anne-Sophie Pic to establish themselves in the Megève area.

While crispy buckwheat crepes, oysters, boeuf bourguignon, and briny fish stews characterize Brittany, Burgundy, and Provence, respectively, Alpine cuisine revolves around the rich, hearty ingredients abundant in the Savoie region.

Dairy is the star of the show here, particularly cheeses like Abondance, Beaufort, Mont d’Or, raclette, Tomme de Savoie, and Reblochon. There’s some debate over the exact blend of cheeses used in Fondue Savoyarde, but you can expect to find Beaufort, Abondance, and Emmental de Savoie among them. Cheese also plays a key role in dishes like tartiflette, a rich potato gratin featuring Reblochon and bacon, designed to keep mountain residents cozy during harsh winters.

The region is abundant with mountain berries, pome and stone fruits, wild mushrooms, and root vegetables, all of which frequently grace restaurant menus in soups, fondues, and tarts. More unusual local ingredients like cardoon (a relative of the artichoke) are notably featured by Renaut alongside truffles. You'll also discover a range of charcuterie and local game, including chamois (a goat-like animal found in European mountain ranges) and freshwater fish, along with Savoyard favorites such as crozets (tiny buckwheat pasta cubes) and potée, a hearty pork and vegetable stew commonly found in ski towns.

During the summer, the cuisine lightens up — meats may be presented as tartare instead of stews, fish could be paired with zucchini, tomatoes, and herbs, and tarts are bursting with apricots and red fruits. Yet, if you crave potatoes or bread topped with melted cheese, you’ll find those comforting dishes available year-round.

ESSENTIAL INFORMATION BEFORE YOUR VISIT

Ski season: Due to Megève’s lower altitude, early season snow cover can be inconsistent from December to January. The atmosphere picks up (or cools down) around mid-February.

Summer in Megève: Don’t miss the chance to experience the Alps in summer. Unlike modern, high-altitude ski resorts that see a drop in visitors after winter, Megève remains a vibrant second home for families from Lyon, Geneva, and Paris, keeping its restaurants lively as the snow melts and hikers take over. Renowned establishments like Flocons de Sel stay open all year round.

Après-ski: Often regarded as the most enticing aspect of a ski trip, this encompasses all activities beyond skiing and snowboarding. This can include enjoying Champagne and vin chaud on a terrace by the slopes, indulging in spa treatments, or dancing the night away.

Henry-Jacques Le Même: The iconic wood and stone ski chalet design, crafted by architect Henry-Jacques Le Même, shapes the local scenery. Features like double-pitched roofs, expansive picture windows, colorful shutters, and broad balconies create a whimsical charm during dining and leisurely walks around town.

Tour de France: In the summer, Megève transitions from skiers to cyclists as professional riders pass through town for the 10th stage of the Tour de France, trailed by a host of amateur cyclists. While camping vans and cheering supporters gather along the route, dining and shopping in the main village remain largely undisturbed.

WHERE TO DINE

La Table de l’Alpaga

Since 2017, Basque chef Anthony Bisquerra has been at the helm of the L’Alpaga hotel’s remarkable dining offerings. The more intimate venue, La Table, earned its second Michelin star in 2020 thanks to the chef’s innovative approach to mountain cuisine. He extensively utilizes local herbs and produce, foraging them during his free time, and adopts a sustainable mindset when it comes to fish and meat. For instance, Bisquerra creatively uses shrimp claws from a starter for stuffing, and transforms the head and shell into an oil infusion for a sauce. A fully plant-based tasting menu showcases the region’s agricultural diversity, with tasting menus starting at $147 for six courses.

Flocons de Sel

If there’s one compelling reason to dine in Megève, it’s Renaut’s outstanding three-star tribute to Alpine ingredients. Set in a refined dining room adorned with light wood beams and minimalistic decor, guests enjoy breathtaking mountain views through expansive windows. The chef elevates Savoyard cuisine beyond cheese, featuring wild fish, game, berries, and a plethora of locally sourced vegetables on ever-evolving menus. Signature dishes include beetroot and parsnip gnocchi in horseradish consomme, steamed and roasted cardoon with truffle herb vinaigrette, lightly toasted pike with a tofu-like texture served on onions topped with black rice and buckwheat, and succulent roasted venison paired with mushroom tartelettes and shallot beetroot puree. Don’t miss the cheese trolley, which showcases a tempting selection before dessert. The prix-fixe menu is approximately $190 for lunch and $280 for dinner.

Chalet le Forestier and Flocon Village

If chef Renaut’s three-star dining experience is outside your budget, there are two other venues to sample his culinary flair and dedication to local produce. His rustic Chalet le Forestier, located in a former forest warden's base, is directly on the Forestier ski run in the Rochebrune massif, easily reachable by skis or on foot. An international crowd fills the cozy dining room and sunlit terrace, complete with ski storage, enjoying hearty twists on classic dishes such as fera fish nuggets, souffléed quenelle de brochet (pike with prawn sauce), venison Bolognese, and the mascarpone Mont Blanc for dessert (ranging from $30 to $50 for lunch). In the town center, Renaut operates a modern bistro offering more elaborate dishes like grilled char, Reblochon cheese rolls, and seasonal soups, alongside an Airstream serving quick bites like Beaufort and truffle croque sandwiches and hay-smoked sausage with potatoes ($5-25).

Nous

After nearly a decade at the Edmond de Rothschild Heritage group, where he oversaw various restaurants including the Chalet du Mont d’Arbois (now part of the Four Seasons), Julien Gatillon has transitioned to a more intimate setting. From his new wooden chalet overlooking Megève, he hosts a private chef's table alongside his wife, Sonia Torland. This unique dining experience accommodates two to twelve guests, offering a completely customized menu planned in advance (with wine selections directly from the chef’s cellar). Expect to spend at least $200 per person.

Cosa Papa

At first glance, the concept of a stylish Italian trattoria combined with a three-lane bowling alley might seem like a gimmick. However, with impressive cocktails, satisfying pizza and pasta options (try the zucca, topped with pumpkin cream, mozzarella, smoked provolone, and pancetta), and a thoughtfully curated playlist, this new venue from the Annie Famose group (named after the Olympic and world champion Alpine skier) is genuinely enjoyable. Open to all guests until 10 p.m., the atmosphere ramps up in the evening as families leave and the night crowd arrives. Be sure to reserve both your bowling lane and table ahead of time. (Bowling costs $20 per game for up to five people).

Indie Mountain

The newest addition to Megève's nightlife is brought to you by a trio of young restaurateurs known for their trendy spots in Saint-Tropez. Styled like an intimate wooden chalet, complete with plush seating, cozy corners, and floral wallpaper, this two-story venue maintains a relaxed atmosphere during dinner but shifts into a lively party vibe with music and festivities from 10 p.m. onward. Chef Diego Alary, a standout from the latest season of French Top Chef and a TikTok sensation, has crafted a menu filled with comforting winter classics reimagined. Expect dishes like Beaufort and pesto garlic bread, morel mushroom soup topped with puff pastry, a creative take on tartiflette, and pumpkin velouté with fresh goat cheese, all ranging from $18 to $50. Don’t miss the Mountain Elixir, a meticulously balanced craft cocktail by head mixologist Melina Carnio, featuring green Chartreuse, pineapple falernum, and lime (about $20).

Chacha

This is the ultimate après-ski spot, where a diverse crowd relaxes in plush leather sofas and cozy armchairs draped in faux fur while enjoying craft cocktails and live music. Renowned chef Renaut has curated a delightful menu of elevated bar snacks, such as crispy polenta, lake perch fillets, wild mushroom fricassee, and mountain hummus made with chickpeas, root vegetables, and juniper berries, perfect for a light meal or pre-dinner drink (starting at $16).

The Restaurant Alpin from Les Fermes de Marie

No visit to Megève is complete without indulging in traditional fondue. At the Restaurant Alpin, the Sibuet family, owners of Les Fermes de Marie, collaborates with cheese master Frédéric Royer from La Fromagerie Boujon to offer a menu filled with Savoyard delights, including a fondue recipe that won the title of best in Megève at the 2019 Toquicimes culinary festival. Other notable dishes feature péla des Aravis, a hearty potato dish with bacon and onions, lake fish soup, raclette, and the region’s famed sponge cake, gâteau de Savoie. (Fondue priced at $35)

La Ferme St. Amour

Nestled in a vast restored farmhouse at the heart of town, this restaurant-bar-club embraces the charming winter chalet vibe with its exposed wooden beams, benches adorned with furry cushions, and wicker light fixtures. Michelin-starred chef Eric Frechon from Le Bristol in Paris, along with his ventures in Saint-Tropez, St. Barts, and Normandy, has crafted a menu that highlights comforting après-ski dishes perfect for post-slope indulgence. Offerings include fondue, roasted chicken with chestnuts, truffle croque monsieur, creamy soups, and delightful Alpine cheese platters (starting at $30). Enjoy lunch on the veranda or watch the evening crowd evolve from relaxed live music to lively dancing as the night progresses with a DJ set.

​​WHERE TO SLEEP

L’Alpaga

This property features 22 rooms and shared spaces, set away from a serene country road, just under a 10-minute drive from the town center. The New York design firm Charles & Co. reimagined the rustic chalet and spa, infusing contemporary elegance with locally crafted velvet and leather furnishings, vintage decor mixed with framed ski imagery, and a calming earthy color scheme. The design aims to enhance the breathtaking natural scenery right outside; many rooms come with private balconies or terraces, offering stunning views of Mont Blanc and the magical mountain light without needing to hit the slopes. A complimentary shuttle is available to take guests to the village and ski lifts upon request. Rooms begin at $665 per night during peak season.

Flocons de Sel

This isn’t just a place to rest after a potentially transformative meal at Flocons de Sel; it’s a rejuvenating destination in its own right. Chef and his wife, Kristine, have crafted an atmosphere resembling a private home, featuring seven rooms, two suites, two chalets, and a wooden apartment with a fully equipped kitchen overlooking the valley. With cozy wool quilts, spacious bathrooms, a tranquil pool area, and one of the finest in-room dining options in the region, it provides a welcoming retreat year-round. It’s common to see the chef personally preparing breakfast and ensuring the outdoor Nordic bath is at the right temperature—his hands-on approach enhances the experience. For a more central stay, the Renauts also offer a two-room private chalet for rent next to their Flocon Village restaurant. Rooms start at $475 per night during peak season.

Au Coin Du Feu

Just a short stroll from the main village, this 22-room hotel is what locals affectionately describe as dans son jus. The charming, preserved wooden skier’s chalet reflects the architectural style set by Henry-Jacques Le Même in the 1930s, complete with colorful shutters. Rooms are simple yet comfortable, embodying a rustic farmhouse style with abundant wood, earthy textiles, and local stone. Beyond its prime location, year-round availability, and spacious outdoor dining, it’s the postcard-perfect mountain views from the guest room balconies that make this an ideal base. Rooms start from $115.

Coeur de Megève

For those seeking a central location in the village, Coeur de Megève stands out as the most unconventional of the boutique hotels in the area. The 39 rooms showcase a distinctly sleek Scandinavian style, featuring brushed wood floors, minimalist linens, and midcentury modern furniture. Common areas and dining spaces burst with color, adorned with Alpine decor, cozy cushions, sheepskin rugs, and a crackling fireplace. You’ll likely encounter locals at La Muse, the hotel’s popular bistro that offers light takes on Savoyard classics, or at the Tata Harper spa. Rooms start from $450.

Les Chalets du Mont d’Arbois

Les Chalets du Mont d’Arbois put Megève on the map when the Rothschild family opened them in the 1920s, but the property underwent a comprehensive design renovation a few years ago after joining the Four Seasons portfolio. The 41 rooms blend rustic and bohemian styles, with suites located across three traditional wooden chalets. Amenities include indoor-outdoor pools, a spa, several on-site dining options (with La Table de Noémie offering a refined take on classic Savoyard cuisine), and easy access to the Mont d’Arbois slopes. If you need anything beyond what’s available here, the sister property nearby, the Four Seasons Megève, is sure to provide it, including a new location of chef Anne-Sophie Pic’s acclaimed Dame de Pic – Le 1920 restaurant. Rooms start from $660.

Les Fermes de Marie

Perched at the end of a country road, this collection of wooden ski chalets and farms might easily be mistaken for a private residence. However, it’s one of Megève’s most renowned spots for sleeping, dining, and relaxation. Established in 1989 by the influential hotelier duo Jocelyne and Jean-Louis Sibuet, the property features 70 rooms across nine chalets and mazots (pasture huts), each thoughtfully designed with a rustic chic aesthetic—think cozy fur accents, trophy heads, antique furnishings, and numerous fireplaces that have inspired a generation of Pinterest enthusiasts. Additional amenities include two on-site restaurants, a spa, and convenient access to premier slopes. Rooms start at $600.

Lindsey Tramuta is a Paris-based writer and the author of The New Paris and The New Parisienne: The Women & Ideas Shaping Paris. Joann Pai is a food and travel photographer based in Paris, originally from Vancouver, Canada.