Discover Chinese-Indonesian Delights in Jakarta’s Kalimati Alley
Handi Renanta, a veteran in Jakarta’s dining scene since 2009, and his wife opened their unnamed vegetarian restaurant six years ago in Kalimati Alley, part of the city’s bustling Chinatown, Glodok. As what he claims is the alley’s sole vegetarian spot, Renanta — who manages the front of house while his wife, who prefers to stay unnamed, handles the cooking — offers beloved Indonesian dishes like satay and rendang, reimagined with vegetables such as mushrooms, soybeans, and tofu.
Renanta explains, “We use seasonings typically found in meat dishes,” noting that they also strive to minimize gluten use. Locals have affectionately dubbed him “Ko Vege,” combining a respectful title with a nickname reflecting his vegetable-centric fare.
The essence of Kalimati Alley is its fusion of Chinese, Indonesian, and Muslim influences. It’s situated near Vihara Dharma Bhakti, Jakarta’s oldest Chinese temple, dating back to the 17th century. The name kali mati, meaning “dead river,” has two origin stories: one suggests the closure of creeks to build a road due to population growth, while another indicates it was an extension of the traditional Petak Sembilan market.
The alley’s journey starts with a narrow road lined with food vendors. Fruit stalls at the front offer fresh produce for visitors to use as offerings at the nearby Dharma Bhakti temple, which was established in 1650.
Handi Renanta and his wife run a stall offering vegetarian versions of classic meat dishes such as sate Pendang, a signature of Minangkabau cuisine, and char siu, the famous Chinese barbecue pork, making them entirely halal.
A-Kin Kuo Tieh serves Chinese pan-fried dumplings filled with pork, cabbage, garlic, red onion, and leek. Each dumpling is priced at 3,000 rupiahs, roughly 20 cents.In this area, halal options are more prominent compared to other parts of Glodok. For instance, a bakpia stall opts for sweet fillings instead of the usual pork, catering to halal diners. Traditional Chinese fare is also prominent: A-Kin Kuo Tieh has been offering pan-fried dumplings in bulk for over 20 years. Dodi Riadi from Jakarta’s Old Town tourism mentions a woman in her eighties recalling a street vendor selling kue mipan (savory rice cakes) in Kalimati Alley during the 1930s. Today, one of only two kue mipan vendors in Glodok is still here, selling each rice cake for Rp7.500 (around $0.49 USD), with each order including two pieces accompanied by palm sugar and fried garlic.
Ardhina Rosa, a volunteer with LWG DMO Kota Tua, notes that Glodok showcases a blend of cultural influences. “You can still see the remnants of its Chinese heritage, alongside the diverse multi-ethnic influences,” says Rosa.
Misdjaya, the owner of Nasi Ulam Misdjaya, has been serving his dishes since 1963. His stall features nasi ulam betawi, a traditional rice dish from the Betawi people, the indigenous group of Jakarta. Author Lilly T. Erwin explains that Betawi cuisine is a fusion of Arabic, Chinese, and European influences.
Misdjaya’s stall serves nasi ulam betawi, a dish where rice is simmered in coconut milk with spices like clove and lemongrass. It comes with various sides such as omelet, fried squid, beef jerky, potato patties, stewed tofu, stewed potato, and fried vermicelli. The dish is topped with soy sauce, peanut powder, and garnished with basil.The influence of ethnic Chinese in Jakarta has a complex history. According to historian Benny G. Setiono’s Tionghoa Dalam Pusaran Politik, over 100,000 ethnic Chinese lived in Batavia (Jakarta’s former name) in the early 1800s. The Dutch colonial government established Glodok in 1741 as a Chinese settlement, but earlier, Dutch governor-general Adriaan Valckenier had ordered the massacre of 10,000 Chinese, including women and children, to quell a rebellion against Dutch rule.
In the 1960s, ethnic Chinese were victims of mass killings across Indonesia, leading to the deaths of around half a million people. More recently, in May 1998, Glodok was severely affected by riots targeting Chinese-Indonesians, who were accused of colluding with Suharto’s regime amid an economic crisis, resulting in looting and violence.
A worker at Lao Beijing, a stall known for its Indonesian-Chinese sweets, packs bakpia into boxes. Traditionally filled with pork, these treats are made with red bean, mung bean, and durian instead to cater to Indonesians who avoid pork for religious reasons.
Bakpia preparation before the filling process.Despite past challenges, Glodok remains vibrant. During the 1990s, it was renowned as Indonesia’s largest electronics marketplace, offering everything from brand-new items to refurbished and secondhand electronics, as reported by Detik. However, with the rise of online shopping, sales have diminished since around 2014, according to one source. Today, Glodok is predominantly celebrated as a culinary hotspot for tourists.
Candha Adwitiyo, co-founder and guide at Jakarta Good Guide, believes that Chinese culture in Glodok is not disappearing but evolving. “It’s not diminishing, just adapting and evolving with the times,” he explains, acknowledging the cultural shifts and adjustments.
Dodi reflects on the ambiance of Kalimati, saying, “I feel like I’m immersed in Chinatown when I’m here.”
Randy Mulyanto is a freelance journalist currently based in Taiwan. Valerian Timothy is a freelance photographer based in Indonesia.Editor: Erin DeJesus
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