Discovering India’s Western Ghats: trains, tea, and remarkable wildlife encounters

Stretching across the states of Tamil Nadu and Kerala, this mountain range offers picturesque tea gardens, unforgettable train rides, incredible wildlife, and much more.

The lush, forest-covered Western Ghats of India represent an unspoiled natural paradise. Extending parallel to the coast for 995 miles (1600 km) from Gujarat to the southern tip of Tamil Nadu, these hills are also home to sprawling emerald-green tea estates and vibrant hill stations.

In the 19th century, British colonists escaped the oppressive heat of the lowlands by retreating to these cool, misty mountains filled with native shola (virgin forest), creating a chain of unique villages known locally as hill stations. Today, it’s primarily Indian visitors who flock to the Western Ghats in search of fresh air, stunning landscapes, and tranquil greenery.

Typically, these mountains rise to about 3000 ft (915 m); in Tamil Nadu, they soar to heights exceeding 8200 ft (2500 m) — particularly in the Nilgiri Hills and the Palani Hills, which host South India’s most renowned hill stations. Just across the border in Kerala, some of the world’s highest-altitude tea plantations flourish around Munnar.

In addition to its beauty, the Western Ghats boast numerous stunning national parks and tiger reserves, providing habitat for elephants, langur monkeys, chital deer, gaur (Indian bison), big cats, and other wildlife. Many of these protected areas are part of the UNESCO-listed Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve, a rich and diverse 2130-sq-mile (5520-sq-km) region that extends from northwest Tamil Nadu into Kerala and Karnataka.

Take a ride on the Nilgiri Mountain Railway to reach Tamil Nadu’s charming hill stations.

For train enthusiasts, one of South India’s most exhilarating experiences is riding the iconic narrow-gauge Nilgiri Mountain Railway to the hill stations of Ooty (Udhagamandalam; elev 7350ft / 2240m) and Coonoor (5640ft / 1720m). Recognized as a World Heritage site by UNESCO, this blue-and-cream “toy” train travels between Mettupalayam (near Coimbatore) and Ooty (via Coonoor). Along the journey, it navigates tunnels and bridges, revealing breathtaking views of forests and tea estates, and you might even catch a glimpse of a wild elephant in the foliage.

Similar to its Himalayan counterparts, Ooty was established in the early 19th century when Madras (now Chennai) served as the capital of British India’s Madras Presidency. Often referred to as the “Queen of Hill Stations,” it is currently Tamil Nadu’s most sought-after hill station and serves as a gateway to the nearby wildlife-rich Mudumalai Tiger Reserve.

Ooty is a vibrant mix of Hindu temples, a bustling bazaar, and a picturesque lake dotted with pedal boats, leading to flower-lined streets where colonial-era structures like the striking red 1867 Nilgiri Library still stand. Some buildings have been transformed into beautiful heritage hotels; consider staying at the 1855 bungalow Lymond House or the early 19th-century Savoy. Ooty’s dining scene, however, remains firmly rooted in South Indian cuisine, offering a delightful array of idlis, vadas, dosas, and pure-veg thalis.

Nestled among lush tea plantations, lively Coonoor lies 12.5 miles (20km) southeast of Ooty. Upper Coonoor provides a quieter alternative to Ooty, with easy access to stunning viewpoints, the 50-year-old Highfield Tea Estate, and charming heritage stays like the 1900s bungalow 180° McIver. Meanwhile, tranquil Kotagiri (5905ft / 1800m), located 19 miles (30km) east of Ooty, is the Nilgiris’ original hill station, featuring the earthy-red Sullivan Memorial from 1819, which was once the residence of Ooty’s British founder, John Sullivan.

Prior to the 19th century, the Nilgiris were inhabited solely by various tribal communities, including the Toda, known for their distinctive black-and-red embroidered shawls. The Tribal Research Centre Museum, located 6.25 miles (10km) southwest of Ooty, explores the lives and traditions of these increasingly endangered communities.

Discover Kodaikanal, the jewel of the Palani Hills

Nestled amid the protected Palani Hills, 155 miles (250km) southeast of Ooty, Kodaikanal, affectionately known as Kodai, stands at an elevation of 6890ft (2100m). Established in 1845 by American missionaries fleeing malaria in the Madurai lowlands, this “Princess of Hill Stations” often shrouded in mist, has a unique charm with its international school, organic cuisine, and a popular weekend retreat for Indian travelers.

Rowboats gently sway on the star-shaped lake, surrounded by hazy hills adorned with shola forests and the unique kurinji shrubs, which bloom in lavender-blue just once every 12 years (the next bloom expected in 2030). Trails wind through forests leading to breathtaking viewpoints, glistening lakes, and the budget-friendly haven of Vattakanal village (3 miles southwest of Kodai), known for its lively, small-scale South Indian Manali atmosphere.

Kodai offers a range of accommodations, including the eco-friendly Cinnabar homestay and the luxurious lake-view Carlton, a colonial-era mansion. Alternatively, consider one of the sustainably designed villas from LuxUnlock, a savvy local operator offering enticing private stays throughout the Western Ghats. For a true escape, head to the eco-conscious Elephant Valley in the Palani Hills, where elephants roam across 120 acres of tranquil grounds.

Experience tea plantations, spice farms, and cooking lessons in Munnar, Kerala

Just across the border from Tamil Nadu, Munnar (5000ft / 1524m) is the vibrant center of South India’s tea-growing landscape. Similar to Ooty, Munnar’s busy, congested center quickly gives way to its serene, verdant valleys and hills, where quaint cottages nestle among the shimmering leaves of neatly tended tea and cardamom plantations. Join guided treks to breathtaking mountain vistas and tea estates, or discover the nuances of Keralan cuisine with a cooking class led by renowned food writer Nimi Sunilkumar.

Munnar boasts a lively homestay culture, with local families opening their homes to visitors. Notable among them is Rose Gardens, celebrated for its cooking classes, spice gardens, and delightful coconut-pancake breakfasts, all set within a heritage bungalow from the 1920s, powered by solar and biomass energy.

Encounter rare wildlife in the national parks and tiger reserves of the Western Ghats

A significant part of the Western Ghats' charm lies in its numerous national parks and tiger reserves, which form a vast, interconnected protected region spanning Kerala, Karnataka, and Tamil Nadu. According to India’s 2022 tiger census, over 800 tigers roam these wild landscapes. While spotting one can be a rare treat, always keep your eyes open for a chance encounter.

The remote, less-visited areas of northern Kerala’s 133-sq-mile (345-sq-km) Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary may offer the best opportunities to see South India’s wild elephants, along with around 150 tigers. In southern Kerala, the dense evergreen forests of Periyar Tiger Reserve host approximately 40 tigers and 900 elephants, alongside sambar deer, wild boar, and langurs. The lush Mudumalai Tiger Reserve in Tamil Nadu is home to over 100 elusive tigers and boasts one of India’s highest tiger densities; however, you're more likely to spot elephants, jackals, langurs, gaurs, deer, and peacocks here.

Situated west of Mysuru (Mysore), Karnataka’s Nagarhole National Park hosts one of the highest concentrations of wild Asian elephants globally, alongside tigers, leopards, dholes (wild dogs), chital, gaurs, and langurs. Many of these iconic species also roam through Bandipur National Park, located just southeast, covering 340 sq miles (880 sq km) at the crossroads of Karnataka, Kerala, and Tamil Nadu.

Entry to these well-preserved reserves is only possible through official 4WD or minibus tours; some parks may also offer guided treks, but it's advisable to verify regulations on-site as they frequently change. Accommodations include engaging wildlife lodges like Nagarhole’s lakeside Waterwoods Lodge, Mudumalai’s well-established Jungle Hut, and Bandipur’s chic Dhole’s Den, along with friendly homestays such as Green View in Periyar and Varnam Homestay in Wayanad.

For a truly unique wildlife experience in the Western Ghats, explore Parambikulam Tiger Reserve in Kerala or Tamil Nadu’s Anamalai Tiger Reserve, where Sinna Dorai’s Bungalow offers luxurious accommodations amidst tea plantations.

Visiting the Western Ghats: A Guide

Many travelers choose to include the Western Ghats in their itineraries alongside other destinations in South India. The Nilgiri Mountain Railway is a convenient way to reach Ooty and Coonoor from Tamil Nadu, and it connects to Kotagiri and Mudumalai Tiger Reserve. Most other access points are by road, typically using a bus or car; hiring a driver with their own vehicle is a common option. Due to long travel times, it's advisable to spend a few days at each hill station or national park, especially if you aim to observe wildlife.

Munnar and Periyar Tiger Reserve are easily linked with a visit to Kerala’s southern coastline and cultural hub, Kochi (Cochin). Both Kochi and Kerala’s capital, Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum), have international airports. Buses from Kochi take approximately five to six hours, while journeys from Thiruvananthapuram to Munnar and Periyar take around eight hours; there are also five-hour buses that connect Munnar and Periyar. Reaching Wayanad is a bit more complex, with the nearest airports in Kannur and Kozhikode (Calicut) in northern Kerala, where buses take about three hours to Wayanad. Alternatively, a direct six-hour bus from Kochi is available.

To get to Kodaikanal, numerous buses operate from various locations within Tamil Nadu, including the popular temple town of Madurai, which is about four hours away, as well as from Bengaluru (Bangalore) in Karnataka, which takes roughly 12 hours. Additionally, you can take a train from Chennai to Kodai Road, followed by a three-hour bus ride. Karnataka’s national parks also feature good bus connections to Mysuru, Bengaluru, and Ooty.