Edinburgh: A city with a shadowy past, rising from a dormant volcano

Standing on the crest of an ancient volcano, Edinburgh Castle has witnessed countless events that have shaped Scotland's capital through the ages.

From battles and truces with England to plagues, growth, and the age of enlightenment.

It was a pivotal site during the creation of the United Kingdom in 1707, and it may one day witness the resurgence of an independent Scotland.

For now, the 800-year-old fortress continues to stand as the heart of one of the world’s most captivating and scenic cities.

More than two million visitors flock to Scotland's capital each year, cementing its place as one of the UK’s top destinations.

But what is it that gives 'Auld Reekie' its unique blend of enchantment and allure?

History

Few cities resonate with history as deeply as Edinburgh.

The cobbled alleys and winding passageways of the Old Town have been home to as much drama, history, and intrigue as the castle itself.

Just a short distance away, across Princes Street Gardens and what was once a foul-smelling body of water called the Nor Loch, the elegant boulevards of the New Town have played a key role in shaping Edinburgh's more recent past.

Construction of the New Town began decades after the 1707 Act of Union between England and Scotland.

Historian Michael Fry notes that the New Town was conceived as a solution to the overcrowding and poor sanitation that plagued the Old Town.

There were hopes that the bold design and ambitious scale of the New Town would breathe new life into the city.

Before the union with England moved the parliament to Westminster, Edinburgh was the political heart of Scotland. Fry describes the shift as having a 'very depressing' impact in the early years.

As a result, 'there was a deliberate push to revitalize the city and preserve its role as the capital,' according to Fry.

Over time, the New Town would become a central hub for the Scottish Enlightenment, an era of intellectual and scientific achievement that was part of a larger European movement.

Notable figures from the Enlightenment, including economist Adam Smith, often regarded as the father of capitalism, and philosopher David Hume, regularly gathered in venues throughout the city.

Poet Robert Burns, geologist James Hutton, writer Sir Walter Scott, and chemist Joseph Black were among the many notable figures of this era.

As Fry suggests, while Edinburgh may have lost its political status after the union with England, it undoubtedly became a hub of intellectual prowess.

Today, several walking tours guide visitors through the key locations where Enlightenment thinkers lived, met, and discussed the pressing issues of their time.

A monument dedicated to philosopher and mathematician Dugald Stewart stands proudly atop Calton Hill, offering stunning panoramic views of the heart of the city.

The present

Edinburgh continues to be a hub of cultural importance.

Each summer, the city becomes a gathering place for artists, musicians, comedians, and theater companies from around the world, showcasing talent at the Edinburgh International Festival and The Fringe, the world’s largest arts celebration.

The city has also been home to some of the most celebrated authors and was named the world’s first UNESCO City of Literature.

J.K. Rowling famously wrote the Harry Potter series in Edinburgh, drawing inspiration from the city's moody architecture and eerie, gothic cemeteries.

Many believe Robert Louis Stevenson’s 'The Strange Case of Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde,' the story of a respected scientist with a dark alter ego set in London, was influenced by events, characters, and places from his youth in Edinburgh.

Another renowned Scottish author, Ian Rankin, has explored the city through the eyes of his iconic detective, Inspector Rebus.

Rankin suggests that while every culture has its darker side, these hidden facets are 'not always easy to perceive' in everyday life.

In Edinburgh, however, the contrasting 'Jekyll and Hyde' nature is visible, with the chaotic, winding Old Town sitting side by side with the orderly, symmetrical New Town.

Between these two, 'you find both reason and irrationality,' he shares with Dinogo.

Although originally from the village of Cardenden, about 25 miles north of Edinburgh, Rankin has made the city his home since his university days.

He has long been fascinated by what lies beneath the city's surface, beyond the bagpipes, tartan, and museums that most tourists associate with Edinburgh.

Rankin’s detective, Rebus, delves into the city’s darker corners, uncovering the answers to grisly crimes.

Curious visitors can discover many of the hidden locations featured in his novels, tucked away from the usual tourist spots.

Although Edinburgh is a small city that can be explored in a day, Rankin believes it would take 'a lifetime to truly understand it.'

Even for a seasoned local like himself, 'you might stumble upon an alley, a close you’ve never noticed before, which could lead you to an even narrower one.'

'And before you realize it, you're uncovering an entirely different side of Edinburgh,' he adds.

The future?

True to form, Edinburgh remains a city defined by its contrasts.

The Old Town continues to exude its quirky, maze-like charm, even as the rest of the city evolves.

In recent years, a modern tram system has been introduced, stretching all the way from the city center to Edinburgh Airport.

Meanwhile, the Scottish Parliament has become firmly entrenched, passing legislation on matters devolved from Westminster since 1999.

The drive for Scottish independence, which was rejected in the 2014 referendum, has gained momentum in the aftermath of Brexit, with recent polls indicating a slim majority in favor of separating from the rest of the UK.

Flag-waving independence supporters have marched through Edinburgh, calling for another referendum on the constitutional issue.

However, many others remain steadfast in their support for the union, even if they don’t often take to the streets to express it.

In the future, this ongoing debate may provide the backdrop for the next great Edinburgh writer, poet, or significant historical moment.

Whatever the outcome, Edinburgh Castle will stand watch over it all.