Embarking on a Galápagos cruise is a test for the mind, body, and spirit — and I'm thankful I shared this adventure with my 7-year-old son.

Golden cownose rays glided quietly through the lagoon, reminiscent of autumn leaves drifting on a gentle stream. Occasionally, a fin would pierce the water's surface, contrasting sharply with its white underbelly. Out of respect for these creatures, our Zodiac's driver switched off the engine, enveloping the red mangroves in serene silence, their sturdy roots harboring a multitude of hidden species.

Suddenly, shouts from another inflatable raft shattered the calm. I was among seven other excited passengers, thrilled to explore the waterways near Punta Moreno on Isabela Island — a seahorse-shaped landmass, the largest and youngest in the Galápagos volcanic chain. Our companion boat had finally caught up, and my son Bobby and husband Rob, who were with that group, were eagerly pointing at the rays in their triangular formation. "Look closely!" they urged.

As thick raindrops fell, neither the wildlife nor the humans appeared disturbed — it was simply nature taking its course. I wondered if Bobby was paying attention, silently wishing my thoughts would drift across the water into his curious, wandering seven-year-old mind. Does he understand how fortunate he is? Do we truly grasp our own luck?

My family and I were on day five of our demanding journey aboard the Grace, a 16-passenger yacht once presented to Grace Kelly by Aristotle Onassis. I stress “demanding” to dispel any notions of a leisurely vacation with cocktails in hand. This adventure was arguably more intense than most African safaris, as a Galápagos cruise truly tests the mind, body, and spirit. We went snorkeling through the Pacific in heavy-duty wet suits while penguins darted past us. Our hikes near volcanoes left us drenched in sweat (yes, multiple volcanoes). Kayaking alongside flightless cormorants as they flapped their stubby wings after diving, they seemed ready for the midday heat while we struggled in our ineffective hats.

“You’ll need a vacation after this vacation,” joked our ever-energetic cruise director, Scarlett Briones, who was part of the Grace’s 14-member crew. Shortly after our plane landed on Baltra Island, in the heart of the archipelago, we spotted our first sea lion (thrilling at first, but by the end, it became just another sight). It barked at us like a cranky toddler as we made our way to the Grace. My son, usually so bold, suddenly nestled close to me; the only sea lions we had seen this closely were at the Central Park Zoo.

Two families — one from Seattle and another from the suburbs of New York City — joined us for our weeklong adventure. We quickly bonded, comfortably lounging on the yacht in our bare feet and swimsuits within just 24 hours of meeting. This camaraderie was perhaps eased by the cozy atmosphere of the ship. Recently renovated by Enrique Concha & Co., a Chilean design firm, the Grace features guest cabins, a lounge, and an open-air bar adorned in warm earth tones, with a place for everything. Our 183-square-foot room ingeniously accommodated a pullout bed for Bobby and all our gear: shoes, backpacks, even more shoes, toiletries, and more shoes. There was a hot tub for sore muscles, a sunny spot for sunbathing, and exquisite meals paired with Ecuadoran wines enjoyed under the unfamiliar stars of the Southern Hemisphere.

Quasar Expeditions operates the Grace alongside another vessel, the 32-passenger Evolution. (A new yacht for 18 guests, named Conservation, is set to launch in December 2024.) The Diez family, proud Ecuadorans with a presence in the islands since 1986, owns the fleet. “We’ve seen a significant rise in multigenerational family travel,” Dolores Gangotena de Diez, Quasar's founder, shared with me over dinner in Quito just before our sailing. She noted that years ago, the clientele primarily consisted of adventurous retirees or marine biologists who were fine with timed showers. Furthermore, most cruise ships operating in the area were not accommodating to children Bobby’s age.

Over the last five years, Aqua Expeditions, Celebrity Cruises, and Silversea Cruises have launched ships designed for travelers who wish to indulge while also learning (76 cruise ships are currently permitted to visit the islands). In 2021, the protected waters surrounding the archipelago were expanded by 23,000 square miles, totaling 76,450, to protect a vital marine migration route. Additionally, this past May, Ecuador completed the largest 'debt-for-nature' swap globally, facilitated by Credit Suisse, which resulted in the creation of the $656 million Galápagos Marine Bond to support future conservation efforts.

What remains unchanged is that, like all cruise operators, Quasar adheres to strict itineraries established by the national park service to prevent overcrowding at landing sites. Passengers must return to their vessels by 6:30 p.m., leaving no trace behind.

During our journey, the ages of travelers ranged from five to 80, and the children quickly formed friendships. Our naturalist guides, Dolores Villacreses and Monica Reck, who together bring over 35 years of experience, managed the diverse group’s expectations, abilities, and learning styles. By law, every 16 visitors must be accompanied by a certified guide, but on the Grace, Quasar provides one for every eight.

As we neared Genovesa Island, a horseshoe-shaped volcanic landform, I glanced at Prince Philip’s Steps — a natural rock staircase rising about 82 feet — and wondered if we would make it to the top. We began our ascent, with Reck instinctively reaching back to hold our hands while Villacreses led the more agile passengers past the magnificent frigate birds, their males displaying red throat pouches like balloons. Bobby was eager to get closer, and Reck gracefully explained that the inflating pouches were part of the birds’ mating display. (I was more than happy to let her take the lead on that topic.) The humidity soon affected us all, but both guides recognized when to pause, allowing us to regain our breath in a vast lava-rock field. It felt like a humbling theater, with hundreds of storm petrels soaring overhead against the backdrop of the Pacific Ocean.

Every day followed a rhythm that encouraged us to test our limits. Wake before dawn. Breakfast. Excursion. Snack. Another excursion. Lunch, occasionally with entertainment. More excursions. While sailing from the northern coast of Isabela Island, we enjoyed grilled fish and vegetables when a super pod of dolphins surfaced on the horizon. As the captain skillfully maneuvered to follow them, Bobby quickly abandoned his half-eaten burger and joined the other kids at the bow. They stood in awe, shoulder to shoulder, watching as hundreds of dolphins leaped into the air in perfect harmony. Social creatures captivated by fellow social creatures.

Later that afternoon, while Bobby remained on the yacht, Rob and I chose to explore a trail winding past Darwin Lake near Tagus Cove, a serene harbor on Isabela. The cliffs bore graffiti left by sailors and visitors from times long past: notably, Charles Darwin himself visited this very location on the Beagle in 1835.

Liberated from childcare duties and refreshed by the slight drop in humidity following a late afternoon rain, I listened for finches. I spent some time with another passenger, a fellow mother from New York: our small talk felt surprisingly significant in that setting. I recalled reading On the Origin of Species for high school biology, a class I genuinely enjoyed. “We aim to share this place with the world,” Reck mentioned to me over our afternoon coffee. “But the Galápagos needs careful management to minimize our impact and preserve its pristine state for as long as possible.”

I suspect that most travelers, like myself, visit the Galápagos seeking displacement, hoping to encounter lumbering tortoises over a century old; clusters of marine iguanas lounging together like quilts; and agile orange Sally Lightfoot crabs. We come to the Galápagos to entertain the notion that time travel is feasible, that nature can appear and behave just as it did in 1835. The abundance here is something I haven’t witnessed in many years.

Just before we plunged into the refreshing waters off Puerto Egas, a breathtaking black-sand beach on Santiago Island, I grabbed my wildlife book. I wanted to familiarize us in case we encountered the lightning-fast shark or the mesmerizing seahorses. (I did catch a fleeting glimpse of a shark, but not a single seahorse.) However, nothing could rival the giant school of shimmering black-striped salema, a modest fish that doesn’t often get the spotlight but plays a vital role in the ecosystem. There were hundreds, possibly thousands — I lost count. I squeezed Bobby’s hand, and together we reached out, hoping to embrace them.

Eight- or 15-day Galápagos cruises with Quasar Expeditions begin at $7,300.