Embarking on one of America's top road trips: 3 days in Big Sur

What better way to usher in the summer than with a journey along one of America's most legendary routes on Highway 1, which connects Los Angeles and San Francisco? The breathtaking cliffside vistas of Big Sur are just one of the stunning highlights you'll encounter on this trip.

Beginning in San Luis Obispo and concluding in Monterey, here’s a perfect three-day itinerary for your adventure along the Pacific Coast Highway.

Day One: Journey on Highway 1

Our journey kicks off in San Luis Obispo—affectionately known as SLO by locals. Once celebrated for its historic mission and Spanish colonial architecture (imagine: vibrant bougainvillea-clad stucco and red-tiled roofs), it has evolved into a vibrant hub for farm-to-table dining and a thriving wine scene.

We navigate this coastal route using the Highway 1 Discovery Route, which provides maps, tips, and recommendations for delving into the rich history of this picturesque stretch of coastline.

Our journey begins in the charming harbor of Morro Bay, home to Tognazzini's Dockside Restaurant, where we indulge in omelets and buttermilk pancakes with a waterfront view. We witness the day's catch coming in right before us. However, the real attraction is the sea otters, who have chosen Morro Bay's harbor as their annual nursery. For an hour, we are captivated, watching as mothers cradle their tiny babies or frolic playfully in the water nearby.

Continuing north, we pause to walk along the pristine sands of Moonstone Beach in the tranquil coastal town of Cambria. This area boasts numerous comfortable beachfront accommodations, making ocean views readily accessible. Options include the Fireside Inn and Sea Otter Inn, while the elegant White Water Lodge sits atop a scenic bluff. Cambria is also known for Linn's, famous for having the best olallieberry and blackberry pie on the coast, alongside steaks sourced from Hearst Ranch beef.

California State Parks recently announced the reopening of Hearst Castle to visitors starting May 11, following a two-year closure. The historic Hearst San Simeon State Historical Monument was initially shut down due to COVID-19 and remained closed after storms in early 2021 damaged the access road. Situated atop La Cuesta Encantada (The Enchanted Hill), this expansive estate offers breathtaking views of the Pacific Ocean. It was designed by publishing mogul William Randolph Hearst in collaboration with architect Julia Morgan over three decades, resulting in a 115-room main house, La Casa Grande, and 120 acres filled with pools, buildings, gardens, and pathways.

Another must-see in San Simeon is Piedras Blancas. This protected beach area next to the historic Piedras Blancas Light Station has become a popular rookery for northern elephant seals. Wildlife lovers gather to observe these massive, awkward seals as they congregate on the beach from fall through spring. Docents from Friends of the Elephant Seal are often available to share insights and information, providing an endlessly entertaining experience. The males compete for territory while new mothers nurse their pups and teach them how to thrive independently.

We spend the night at Ragged Point, a striking headland affectionately dubbed the gateway to Big Sur. The view from the Adirondack chairs outside our room at the Ragged Point Inn and Resort is breathtaking. The property features a gazebo that offers incredible sunset vistas and a private cove accessible via a steep, winding path. Dinner is served on the ocean-facing patio of the restaurant, where we enjoy fresh salmon and a perfectly cooked sirloin, enhanced by the warmth of a flickering fire pit and the soothing sound of waves crashing nearby.

Day Two: Exploring Big Sur

From this point, you'll be treated to one breathtaking view after another. As Highway 1 meanders along California's most beautiful coastline, perched on cliffs overlooking the crashing surf and dipping into lush canyons, it's common to see drivers stopping every few minutes to capture another stunning photo. Picking a beach for a picnic along Big Sur's southern coast is a delightful challenge. For those traveling with dogs, both Willow Creek and Sand Dollar Beach welcome furry friends, while Limekiln State Park features a driftwood-laden cove along with a developed picnic area and campground.

The historic Bixby Bridge rises 260 feet above its iconic canyon. Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park provides the tranquility of its lush forests, while Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park features the trail leading to Partington Cove, which passes through a century-old train tunnel. Within the park, McWay Falls cascades into the cove below, making it the most photographed spot in Big Sur. Nearby, the Henry Miller Memorial Library showcases eclectic literary exhibits and offers an outdoor picnic area, serving as a perfect introduction to the spirit of rebellion that initially attracted the literary and artistic community to Big Sur.

What truly sets the Big Sur experience apart is its retreats. In its purest form, Big Sur provides an escape from the outside world, attracting those seeking solitude and peace since the first visitors sought refuge in riverside cabins and spiritual enlightenment at Esalen Institute and Tassajara Zen Mountain Center.

Travelers can find ultimate relaxation at Ventana Big Sur. Days can be spent exploring two clifftop pools and indulging in a variety of spa and hot springs experiences. Visitors can participate in yoga sessions and nature walks amid 160 acres of lofty mountain meadows and majestic redwood forests connected by hiking trails. Spa Alila offers outdoor tents for couples seeking private treatments just steps away from the pool, while the upper mountain pool features a traditional Japanese-style bathhouse. This Category 8 Hyatt property qualifies for award nights, with standard rooms (limited in availability) starting at 35,000 points per night during off-peak periods (and 45,000 during peak times).

At The Sur House, dinner and breakfast are served with tables lining a vast patio that appears to float over the Pacific. For lunch or an evening cocktail, guests can head poolside, where a spacious lawn provides a perfect view of the sunset. Ventana is also one of the most dog-friendly resorts around, allowing pets to stay with their owners and offering special pet menus featuring arctic char and grass-fed beef patties.

The culinary narrative of Big Sur is enriched by fresh seafood and other local treasures, with the seaside restaurant Nepenthe taking center stage. Established in 1949 by the Fassett family, Nepenthe has served an impressive lineup of celebrities throughout its history, which is steeped in bohemian culture and exceptional dining, all while offering breathtaking views.

The heart of Big Sur boasts so many attractions that you'll need at least two days to fully appreciate them. Pfeiffer Beach, located within Los Padres National Forest, is a favorite among photographers and Instagram enthusiasts for its stunning rock formations. For a quieter experience, visit the beach or explore the Creamery Meadow trails in Andrew Molera State Park, known for its beautiful wildflowers and a glimpse into the area’s agricultural past.

Day Three: A Journey to Monterey

En route to Monterey, we choose to stay at Glen Oaks Big Sur, a retro-style roadside motel that has been thoughtfully updated, offering a cozy, forest-like atmosphere. Upon arrival, we find baskets filled with wine and s'mores supplies; we enjoy roasting marshmallows by our private fire pit, accompanied by the soothing sounds of the nearby river. (The lounge chairs placed by the riverbank added a lovely touch.)

Among the highlights of the area is the Big Sur Roadhouse, a beloved dining spot known for its inventive twists on classic road-trip fare, including burgers, fresh salads, and irresistible pulled pork sandwiches. Additionally, make sure to try the tacos at the Big Sur River Inn and the delectable muffins at Big Sur Bakery, where an artful garden provides a charming place to relax between your travels.

If you're looking for accommodations that are easier on points and less opulent than Ventana, you may need to venture outside the Big Sur region. I enjoyed accumulating miles with my Capital One Venture Rewards Credit Card while supporting local businesses. Alternatively, for those preferring familiar hotel chains, the town of Monterey at the northern edge of Big Sur features excellent loyalty options, including the Monterey Marriott and Hilton Garden Inn Monterey.

The vibrant waterfront village of Monterey serves as the perfect finale to your journey. After exploring the renowned Monterey Bay Aquarium, take a leisurely stroll along Cannery Row, where the fishing industry thrived and inspired John Steinbeck's famous book, cementing this area in America's cultural narrative.