Eszter Palagyi: The Chef Leading Hungary's Culinary Transformation

Hungary is typically associated with hearty, traditional fare—think meaty stews, creamy soups, plum dumplings, and fried dough—rather than avant-garde cuisine.

When Costes became the first Hungarian restaurant to earn a Michelin star in 2010, it sparked a dramatic shift in the country’s dining culture, inspiring a move towards more refined and creative versions of classic dishes.

Eszter Palagyi, the head chef at Costes, has been a key figure in this revolution, earning the title of Chef of the Year from Hungary’s Dining Guide in 2016.

“A decade ago, it was nearly impossible to find quality meat or fresh vegetables,” she recalls, speaking to Dinogo Travel. “We had to import most of our ingredients from France.”

Today, Hungary's culinary renaissance has made locally-sourced, high-quality cheese, meat, and vegetables easily accessible.

Focus on local and seasonal ingredients

This is one of Costes' key offerings. Guests can indulge in duck from the Kunság region, marinated in Tokaji wine from the northeast, or enjoy catfish sourced from Lake Fertő, located along the Austria-Hungary border.

Using local ingredients preserves the authentic taste of the dish. Palagyi explains that if truffles from countries like France, Italy, or Spain were used instead of Hungary's own, the flavor would be distinctly different.

This means that the menu is inspired by the changing seasons. For Palagyi, who draws inspiration from her grandmother’s kitchen, this approach feels like the natural way to cook.

“They didn’t have supermarkets where you could find apples, for example, all year long,” she recalls.

Palagyi’s cooking is deeply influenced by her childhood memories. She aims to offer her guests a taste of home, recalling moments like peeling potatoes for her father, or harvesting apples to ferment and store for the winter months.

“I believe that when someone visits Costes, they don't just enjoy a meal—they experience something special,” Palagyi says. “They take a piece of our history with them, and I hope they fall in love with our country and our cuisine.”

Traditional dishes with a creative twist

“I love her inventive, playful approach,” says Zsofia Mautner, a Hungarian food blogger and author. “Palagyi’s cooking today takes traditional Hungarian dishes and transforms them with a truly creative flair.”

Mautner explains that traditional recipes are the foundation of 'new Hungarian cuisine.' She describes the movement, which began around 2007, as a fresh approach to classic food—lighter dishes, innovative culinary techniques, a focus on high-quality, local ingredients, and creative presentation.

When Palagyi took over at Costes, she shifted the menu back to its Hungarian roots, moving away from the international flavors introduced by Portuguese chef Miguel Rocha Vieira, who now leads Costes Downtown – one of the four Michelin-starred restaurants in Budapest.

Onyx, with two Michelin stars, offers a 'Within our Borders' tasting menu featuring túró rudi, a beloved Hungarian sweet similar to a chocolate bar filled with a creamy cottage cheese filling. There's also Borkonyha, a restaurant and wine bar serving a delicious lamb goulash.

Building a culinary career

Palagyi attended culinary school in Budapest before heading to Ireland to train at the Mount Falcon Country House Hotel.

“I remember my first day in the kitchen,” she says. “Within the first hour, I cut my finger because I didn’t know how to handle the knife. Now, I feel like I understand the ingredients better and know how to work with them to bring out their full potential.”

Her career has progressed rapidly. At just 32, Palagyi has already earned Hungary's Chef of the Year award three times, and under her leadership, Costes has won Restaurant of the Year three consecutive years while maintaining its Michelin star status.

She emphasizes that winning awards was never her primary goal, but rather, one opportunity led to another, and before she knew it, she hadn’t realized how far she had come.

“I never had the chance to pause and think, ‘Wow, well done,’” she reflects.