Europe's skiers are gearing up for an 'emotional' comeback

Some long for the thrill of the slopes. Others miss the fresh mountain air and breathtaking views. Many dream of relaxing with a cold drink under the sun on a terrace, or enjoying a warm, hearty meal by a crackling fire after a day of skiing.

For two years, winter holidays in Europe have been largely put on hold due to the pandemic.

Now, with travel restrictions lifting and resorts reopening, skiers across Europe are excited for what many describe as an ‘emotional’ return to the slopes.

It seems the mountains have never felt more inviting.

"The anticipation of returning to the slopes has sparked an undeniable excitement," said Richard Lumb, co-founder and director of Kaluma Ski, a luxury tour operator with high-end properties in Courchevel, France, and St. Anton, Austria.

"The determination of our guests preparing for the ski season is clear from the volume of calls we're receiving – people are ready to ski this season," he added.

"There's a real sense of optimism. We're seeing bookings far ahead of where we were before the pandemic hit."

Emotions run high

He remarked: "Strapping on our skis for the first time in what will be two years for many, will undoubtedly be an emotional experience."

"Whether we show our emotions through tears or wide smiles, it will undoubtedly be a moment to remember."

The Covid-19 outbreak in Europe in February 2020 brought the winter season to an abrupt halt, with ski resorts becoming hotspots as people from around the world gathered in confined spaces like ski lifts, bars, restaurants, and chalets.

After the first lockdowns, many resorts were optimistic about reopening before Christmas, but the ongoing pandemic forced governments in France, Italy, and Germany to delay operations, eventually ordering ski lifts to stay closed for the season.

In Austria, some ski lifts stayed open at limited capacity, exclusively for locals, with no accommodations or hospitality services available at the resorts. Ski areas in Switzerland, Spain, Sweden, Slovenia, and Bulgaria continued to operate, although travel restrictions made access difficult for most people.

However, with widespread vaccine distribution, many borders now partially open, and lockdowns paused, the ski season across Europe is set to go ahead.

While restrictions will vary by country and region, they will include mask mandates in certain areas, capacity limits on ski lifts, social distancing protocols, and importantly, to enter indoor venues like bars, restaurants, and some ski lifts, proof of an EU-wide vaccine passport will be required, showing that an individual is either fully vaccinated, has recovered from Covid, or has a recent negative test result.

"It's happening"

British vaccination certificates will be accepted in over 40 countries participating in the scheme, including both EU member states and non-EU nations like Switzerland and Norway. Travel rules for US visitors to Europe are still changing, with 27 countries currently open to vaccinated travelers, although Bulgaria, Norway, and Sweden remain closed to US arrivals.

Some high-altitude glacier resorts in Switzerland, such as Zermatt, Engelberg, Andermatt, and Saas Fee, have already opened their lifts, as have Tignes and Les Deux Alpes in France, Cervinia in Italy, Hintertux and Solden in Austria, as well as Ruka and Levi in Finland, and Idre Fjall in Sweden.

"I think it's too late for most resorts to turn back now, they've invested too much. The season is happening, and everyone is eager to get back on the slopes. It’s going to be a massive return to the Alps," said Lumb, who felt reassured after attending a recent travel industry event at a London embassy.

"There are a few concerns about how things will operate and some restrictions in place, but I don’t expect too many challenges," he added.

"My kids have already dug out their ski gloves and goggles from the loft. Skiing is always our favorite family holiday, and we're determined to make up for the season we lost," said one parent.

Back to ‘normal’

Although some parts of Austria were preparing to introduce new lockdowns for the unvaccinated this week, ski lifts were set to run at full capacity for those with a valid '3G' certificate or Covid passport. Visitors will also be required to wear FFP2 masks in gondolas, cable cars, and shops.

Hotels, restaurants, and certain bars will require the 3G entry pass, while late-night bars and clubs will ask for more stringent proof of vaccination or a recent negative test.

In St. Anton, part of the expansive Arlberg ski region in western Austria, there are promising signs that the season will proceed ‘normally,’ according to Mario Matt, the owner of the renowned Krazy Kanguruh restaurant and apres-ski bar located on the slopes above the town.

"Right now, things are looking great. Everyone is ready for the season, our staff is hired, and we’re excited for a regular season," said Matt, a double world ski champion and the 2014 Olympic slalom gold medalist, who purchased the bar in 2009 while still competing on the World Cup ski circuit.

"We’ll have to see how the rules evolve, it’s hard to say for now, but we’re really looking forward to a fantastic season. People are eager to return to normal life, to be happy, and enjoy their time."

Last winter, St. Anton only ran a few lifts for locals, and the resort had the feel of a ‘ghost town’ as it remained closed.

"We’ve been through a lot," said Matt, known as the ‘Eagle of the Arlberg.’

"Two years ago, we had our best season ever, and then we had to shut down in March [2020]. Last winter was hard to watch. Locals could access some lifts, but seeing the whole resort closed was unimaginable—nobody could have predicted something like this would happen," he recalled.

"To see the Krazy Kanguruh back to how it was before, packed with happy people, will be an incredible feeling," he said with optimism.

The Austrian, who also trains Arabian horses, is eager to revive the lively atmosphere of the ‘KK,’ with partygoers dancing on tables in ski boots, assuming restrictions allow.

"It’s fun, I enjoy the bustling vibe. I’ll jump behind the bar and help out. I love it," he added.

Rules differ slightly across Europe and are subject to change. For example, in France, the ‘pass sanitaire’ isn’t required for purchasing lift tickets but is necessary for indoor bars and restaurants. In Italy, however, the ‘green pass’ is needed for both lift tickets and indoor dining, and it applies to anyone aged 12 and over.

In Italy, outdoor lifts will operate at full capacity, while enclosed lifts will be limited to 80%. In Switzerland, there’s currently no Covid pass requirement on the slopes, but for indoor venues, the certification law applies to those 16 and older.

"Fresh air and cleanliness"

The key to a perfect winter getaway is staying informed about the latest requirements at your chosen destination.

"The guidelines are simple: once you reach the summit, feel free to remove your mask and enjoy the crisp air, stunning views, and breathtaking scenery," states the official website for Les 3 Vallees, which includes resorts like Courchevel, Meribel, and Val Thorens, and boasts the world’s largest ski area with over 600 kilometers of groomed trails.

The rush of reaching the top of a lift, soaking in the panoramic views, and anticipating your next thrilling run is what many have missed during the pandemic and is the very reason so many return to the mountains year after year.

"It’s the freedom and exhilaration of breathing in the fresh Alpine air, the sense of purity, and simply being surrounded by the mountains," said British skier Mandy Hickson, who regularly skis with her husband and two sons.

"That’s something even my teenagers have been longing for. We’re all so eager to get back out there," she added.

"It’s the rush of cold air against your skin and that incredible sensation of being surrounded by snow. I never realized how much I’ve missed it," said Hickson.

Hickson, a former Tornado pilot, continued: "Strapping into your skis after a long break feels strange at first. You expect to feel awkward, like a newborn deer, but it all comes rushing back in an instant."

"I’m a thrill-seeker, so I live for the speed and the adrenaline. That’s what I’m most excited for—pure skiing," she added.

Even for veterans like Matt, who has skied all his life, returning to normalcy will feel like a refreshing balm for the soul.

"After a fresh snowfall, when the sky is clear and blue, taking that first lift ride and carving through the powder is an indescribable experience. Anyone who’s done it knows exactly what I mean," Matt said.

"Even for someone like me, who does this every season, it’s always a uniquely special experience," said the skier.