European Cuisine in London: A Taste from Every Nation
Once known for its jellied eels, pie and mash, and fish and chips, London has evolved from a city where the local Indian restaurant was the height of exotic dining to a vibrant food scene filled with European flavors.
In 1975, when Britain last voted on EU membership, British cuisine was defined by the unremarkable cake trays and tea trolleys of the Lyons Corner Houses. But over 40 years of European influence have revolutionized the London food scene, with a growing number of exceptional European restaurants.
From Malta’s pastizzi to Spain’s tapas, and Slovakia’s rich cheese dumplings, London offers a culinary tour of nearly every EU member state, with eateries representing diverse European cultures.
Though Luxembourg and Slovenia are underrepresented in London’s vast European culinary landscape, those craving Luxembourg’s smoked pork collar and broad beans, or Slovenia’s fried krofi, can still find options among the city’s many French, German, and Balkan eateries.
In the 2016 EU referendum, 51.9% of UK voters chose Brexit, while 59.9% of Londoners, guided perhaps by their instincts, voted to remain in the EU.
In the weeks leading up to the referendum, we curated a list of London's top European restaurants, tasting both the food and the opinions of their staff. With the future of the UK’s EU ties uncertain, these eateries and their pre-referendum insights offer a glimpse of what’s at stake.
Austria
Venue: Fischer’s – With its wood paneling, gleaming mirrors, and tiled surfaces, this spot gives off the vibe of a place that’s been around since Freud’s time. In reality, it’s only a few years old, but its menu and ambiance exude an authentic old-school Austrian charm.
Cuisine: Wiener schnitzels, sausages with sauerkraut, strudel, and the iconic Sachertorte.
Belgium
Venue: Belgo Centraal – A stylish, cave-like beer hall that has been serving up Belgian favorites and an extensive selection of beers for nearly 20 years in the heart of London.
Cuisine: Moules marinière with crispy double-cooked fries, rotisserie chicken, and decadent waffles.
Bulgaria
Venue: Paradise Restaurant – A vibrant and budget-friendly corner café serving a mix of slow-cooked and quick Bulgarian dishes, perfect for both dine-in and takeout customers.
Cuisine: A refreshing yogurt and cucumber soup, chicken kavarma (stew) with egg, and the classic pleskavita (spiced meat patty).
Croatia
Venue: Riviera – A beloved neighborhood gem offering hearty portions of Croatian specialties in a cozy, well-decorated space.
Cuisine: Cabbage leaves filled with minced meat and rice, hearty dumplings, tender calves' livers, and sizzling grilled meats.
Cyprus
Venue: Pure Cyprus – Nestled in a quiet side street of Finsbury Park, North London, this spot offers an authentic taste of the Mediterranean. Before the evening rush, the Solomou family enjoys an early dinner together, setting the tone for the evening’s service.
Cuisine: Dolmades (vine leaves stuffed with rice and pine nuts), grilled lountza (Cypriot smoked pork tenderloin), spanakopita (spinach and feta in crispy filo pastry), and more delightful Mediterranean dishes.
Brexit or Bremain: “If Britain leaves the EU, it’ll be fantastic,” says restaurant owner Elias Solomou.
“I believe everyone will be happier with Britain outside the EU – there’ll be more money in our pockets, and the country will be more self-sufficient.”
When a family member questions the potential need to hire new staff if the UK leaves the EU, Elias is unbothered. “No problem,” he says. “I’ll just replace them.”
Czech Republic
Venue: Czechoslovak Restaurant – More a journey to a bygone era than a taste of a foreign culture. With its retro carpets and 1970s décor, it feels like stepping back in time, but the affordable beer and hearty, traditional food make it well worth the visit.
Cuisine: Roast wild boar with a rich, creamy, cheesy sauce and dumplings. Brawn served with vinegar, mustard, onions, and bread.
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Denmark
Venue: Snaps & Rye – A trendy and bustling spot during the day (and some evenings), featuring stripped pine furnishings and chic chairs. It perfectly blends Danish minimalism with a cozy, welcoming vibe.
Cuisine: Smørrebrød (open sandwiches), pork and veal frikadeller meatballs, liquorice meringue, and almond-baked custard pudding.
Estonia
Venue: Baltic Restaurant and Bar – A contemporary and stylish spot offering not only Estonian dishes but also a variety of Baltic cuisine, with influences from Poland, Hungary, and Russia, all paired with a vodka-heavy cocktail menu.
Cuisine: Smoked eel served with beetroot, potatoes, crispy bacon, and a creamy horseradish sauce.
Finland
Venue: Nordic Bakery – A fragrant retreat of cinnamon and coffee nestled in the hustle and bustle of central London, this spot blends the sleekness of a Scandinavian café with the laid-back charm of a school canteen.
Cuisine: Cinnamon buns, skoleboller (Norwegian custard-filled buns), and Karelian pies with rice or mashed potato filling.
Brexit or Bremain?: “I’ve only been in London for two months, but I really like it,” says Suvi Jarvenpaa, a former hospitality student.
“I’m not entirely sure what the referendum is about, but I enjoy the European Union because it makes traveling so much easier. I love how I can move freely between countries with just one currency – the Euro.”
“I’ve only had positive experiences with it.”
France
Venue: Le Garrick Brasserie Restaurant – A reliable French bistro located in the heart of London's theater district, known for its classic dishes that keep patrons coming back, without the pretentiousness of more upscale establishments.
Cuisine: Boeuf bourguignon, cassoulet de Toulouse, and rich crème brûlée.
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Germany
Venue: Bavarian Beerhouse – If your vision of Munich beer halls includes loud English crowds knocking back huge steins of beer and devouring sausages served by waitstaff in lederhosen, this is the authentic experience.
Cuisine: A carnivore’s paradise: Bavarian-style meatloaf, enormous meatballs, Frankfurters, Nurnberger sausages, and hearty bratwurst, all served with mashed potatoes and tangy sauerkraut.
Greece
Venue: The Real Greek – One of London’s top chain restaurants, offering a vibrant selection of Eastern Mediterranean dishes in a setting that captures the laid-back charm of Greece. The blue-and-white decor evokes the peaceful vibe of a Santorini taverna, even if the view is a rainy central London street.
Cuisine: Grilled calamari, squid marinated in a sweet Greek honey and paprika blend. Lamb kofta, minced lamb seasoned with Anatolian spices, served alongside a refreshing minted yogurt.
Brexit or Bremain: “I believe Greece would fare better outside the EU, and I think Britain would too,” says assistant manager Dimitri Loubros. “It might be hard at first, but in the long run, it’s the best choice. If I had a say in the EU referendum, I’d vote to leave.”
Hungary
Venue: The Gay Hussar – Situated in London’s Soho, a neighborhood long favored by bohemians, rebellious politicians, and sharp-tongued journalists, it’s only fitting that the area’s most iconic restaurant is Hungarian.
The wood-paneled interior is adorned with vibrant caricatures of both past and present politicians, and the clientele tends to be an older mix of media professionals, politicians, and publishers.
Cuisine: fustolt libamell (smoked goose breast served with solet and red cabbage), ozporkolt (venison goulash with tarhonya pasta and red cabbage).
Brexit or Bremain? “Obviously, I don’t want to return to Hungary now,” says assistant manager Monika Bogie. “Finding a job there is becoming increasingly difficult. In my first year here, I was homesick and longed to go back, but I don’t feel that way anymore.”
“From a personal perspective, I’d say that British people are friendlier than Hungarians. When I go back to Hungary, I’m often treated like a foreigner because I’ve been away for so long.”
Ireland
Venue: Green Pea – London is filled with so-called Irish pubs that don’t quite live up to expectations. The Green Pea may not impress with its decor, but it excels in food and personality, with guests praising the warm, quirky atmosphere.
Food: No fixed menu – that would be too predictable. But you’re likely to find Irish staples like steak and Guinness pie on the board.
Italy
Venue: Little Sardegna – Italian cuisine was one of the first to take root in London’s vibrant dining scene and still offers a wide range of options, from ultra-fine dining to more humble, casual spots.
While Little Sardegna may not look like the fanciest spot in town, it delivers exceptional value and top-notch food quality.
Latvia
Venue: See Estonia
Lithuania
Venue: Smilte Restaurant – A beloved spot for the Lithuanian community in northeast London, this restaurant has been serving up hearty meals and hosting Lithuanian music performances for nearly a decade.
Cuisine: Cod fillet in a rich spinach sauce. Hearty pork stew with mushrooms and cream.
Malta
Venue: Parparellu – A cozy café nestled in a bustling neighborhood, Parparellu serves as a go-to spot for locals and homesick Maltese, offering a comforting escape with a great cup of coffee.
Cuisine: Qassatat, a savory pastry filled with tuna, spinach, anchovies, peas, and ricotta. Traditional Maltese honey rings for dessert.
Netherlands
Venue: De Hems – A traditional Dutch pub tucked away in the heart of London's Chinatown, offering a unique blend of cultures in a cozy setting.
The pub is named after 19th-century Dutch sailor Captain De Hem, who originally opened it as an oyster bar serving shellfish and stout.
Cuisine: Bitterballen, crispy crumbed meatballs filled with a rich beef ragout. Kaassouflees, deep-fried parcels of Dutch cheese, golden and crunchy.
Brexit or Bremain: "The Dutch have always been an important part of London’s history, and this pub even served as a meeting point for the Dutch resistance during World War II," explains manager Ben Jones, who remains neutral on the EU debate.
"These days, we're especially popular among the Dutch expats in London, hosting regular parties, like the ones for King's Day on April 27," adds Jones.
Poland
Venue: The Patio Restaurant – Designed to resemble a central European middle-class living room, The Patio anticipated the early 2000s wave of Polish immigration to the UK, offering a taste of home years before it became a trend.
With its generous servings of hearty Polish staples, The Patio has carved out a respected spot in London’s vibrant dining scene.
Cuisine: Pierogi, traditional Polish dumplings made by hand. Kolabki, cabbage leaves stuffed with delicious fillings.
Portugal
Venue: Sporting Clube de Londres – While West London offers plenty of Portuguese dining spots, this laid-back and unpretentious venue stands out for its authentic Iberian flavors.
It’s a straightforward, no-frills experience with a heavy dose of soccer, where large servings of simple, hearty food transport guests straight to Portugal.
Cuisine: Salt cod croquettes, crispy and flavorful. Spicy peri peri chicken, grilled to perfection.
Sporting Clube de Londres, 27 Elkstone Road, London; +44 20 8968 3069
Romania
Venue: Restaurant Acasa – A humble gem in northeast London, this restaurant serves the Romanian community and curious locals eager to explore one of Europe's more overlooked cuisines.
Cuisine: Smoked lamb paired with creamy polenta. Flavor-packed Romanian sausages. Succulent spit-roasted pork.
Slovakia
Venue: See Czech restaurant
Spain
Venue: Centro Galego de Londres – Located far from the overpriced tapas bars of central London, this Spanish-owned restaurant attracts expats to the city's more modest northwestern suburbs, offering authentic, reasonably priced seafood and traditional dishes from the Galicia region of Spain.
Cuisine: Grilled sea bass in a rich white wine sauce. Iberian pork fillet paired with smoked peppers. A classic seafood paella.
Sweden
Venue: Cooper & Woolf – This family-run café and restaurant brings authentic Swedish home cooking to London, based on recipes passed down through the family of owner Sara Ratcliffe.
Cuisine: Gubbrora open sandwiches on sourdough, classic Swedish meatballs, and gravlax smoked salmon served on a bed of scrambled eggs.
Brexit or Bremain?: “If the UK exits the EU, I might consider returning to Sweden,” says owner Sara Ratcliffe.
“I feel strongly about this. I’ve spent 20 years living and building businesses here, all while being a part of the European Union, and I can’t imagine doing that without it.”
This article was first published on June 22, 2016.
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