Experience staying at The Caledonian Edinburgh, part of the Curio Collection by Hilton.

• The Caledonian Edinburgh is a delightful historic hotel that once served as a railway station.
• Located next to Princes Street Gardens, it offers an ideal spot for exploring both the Old Town and New Town.
• The attentive and welcoming staff create an atmosphere that feels both opulent and homely.
• This hotel is a must-visit, although it will temporarily close later this year for essential renovations as it transitions from being a Waldorf Astoria.

Attention historical drama enthusiasts on PBS: The Caledonian Edinburgh, Curio Collection by Hilton, is the ultimate Scottish getaway you've been dreaming of.

Originally opened in 1903 atop the Princes Street Railway Station, this hotel beautifully integrates some of the station's historic features, including its original entrance and main platform.

As you stroll through the hotel's expansive corridors and magnificent staircases, you might just expect to encounter Lady Mary from 'Downton Abbey' at any moment. Echoing the elegance of renowned resorts like the Omni Homestead Resort in Hot Springs, Virginia, or the Omni Mount Washington Resort in Bretton Woods, New Hampshire, the exquisite woodwork and creaking floors create a nostalgic atmosphere that invites a more leisurely pace of life.

What exactly is The Caledonian Edinburgh, Curio Collection by Hilton?

The Caledonian Edinburgh, Curio Collection by Hilton was initially constructed by the Caledonian Railway Company to entice travelers to utilize its train service to Edinburgh. Currently featuring 241 rooms, a renovation set to begin later this year as part of its transition from Waldorf Astoria to Curio Collection will increase the total to 300 rooms.

While the impending renovations are not expected to alter the Caledonian's cherished Edwardian charm—affectionately known as 'the Caley'—it's important to note that construction and updates will likely be visible through 2026.

What are the costs associated with staying at the Caledonian Edinburgh and how can you make a reservation?

Rates at the Caledonian begin at 178 British pounds ($230) per night, or 54,000 Hilton Honors points. For a two-bedroom suite, like the one my family enjoyed, rates start at 2,936 pounds ($3,803) per night.

When planning your stay at the Caledonian Edinburgh, consider using a credit card that maximizes points for Hilton stays and offers automatic Hilton Honors elite status for added perks. Benefits include:

• Hilton Honors American Express Surpass® Card: Earn 12 points for every dollar spent at Hilton hotels, receive automatic Gold elite status, and have the option to upgrade to Diamond status by spending $40,000 in eligible purchases within a calendar year.
• Hilton Honors American Express Business Card: Also earns 12 points per dollar spent at Hilton hotels, includes automatic Gold elite status, and the opportunity to achieve Diamond status with $40,000 in eligible purchases within a calendar year.
• Hilton Honors American Express Card: Earns 7 points per dollar spent at Hilton hotels and grants automatic Silver elite status, which upgrades to Gold after $20,000 in spending within a calendar year.
• Hilton Honors American Express Aspire Card: Earns 14 points per dollar spent at Hilton hotels and provides automatic Diamond elite status.

The details for the Hilton Aspire Card have been independently compiled by Dinogo. The information presented here has not been reviewed or endorsed by the card issuer.

During our stay, I traveled with my husband and two children. We had initially booked a King Premier room along with a Twin Premier room connected to it. My husband holds the Hilton Aspire card from American Express, which grants him automatic Diamond status with Hilton.

This elite status proved beneficial, as we were upgraded to a spacious two-bedroom, three-bathroom suite offering stunning views of Edinburgh Castle. Additionally, it entitled two of us to complimentary breakfast each day of our stay, providing approximately $80 in extra value. The hotel was unaware that I was a member of the TPG team there for a review; the upgrade and breakfast perks were entirely due to my husband's elite status.

For our two-night stay in two connecting rooms, we paid 1,674 British pounds ($2,139). During that period (late March), the rate for a two-bedroom suite would have been 7,889 British pounds ($10,081). If you're worried about the $550 annual fee for the Aspire card, keep in mind that if you stay at Hilton properties even a few times a year, you can still derive significant value from the card. In our case, we obtained approximately 14 times the value of that fee during a single stay, not even counting the complimentary breakfast.

The details regarding the Hilton Aspire Card have been independently gathered by Dinogo. The information presented on this page has not been verified or endorsed by the card issuer.

Accommodations at the Caledonian Edinburgh

Our suite was roomy and stylish, though it didn't quite reach the level of true luxury. The beds were comfortable, though not exceptionally so. There were nice details like a Bluetooth speaker, a Dyson hair dryer, and yoga gear. Additionally, the bathrooms featured Aesop amenities, each equipped with a separate shower and a freestanding tub.

Upon entering the room, we were greeted with several bottles of water, a box of chocolates, and a personalized note from the manager—a lovely gesture, made possible by my husband's Diamond status.

If you tend to pack heavily, you might find the closet space lacking, as our rooms only featured armoires instead of full closets. Additionally, many of the armoire compartments were occupied by amenities like yoga equipment, a hair dryer, an umbrella, and a safe, so it's best to pack light.

The living room included a sofa accompanied by velvet armchairs and a small table that offered sufficient space for dining. From the table, the view of Edinburgh Castle was breathtaking—truly postcard-worthy and an ideal backdrop for an afternoon of writing.

However, the rooms did have some shortcomings. There were noticeable signs of the hotel's age, and not in a charming way. In several areas, paint was peeling, and some parts of the suite featured acoustic panels on the ceiling—elements that didn’t quite align with the hotel’s overall ambiance and pricing.

The shower in the bathroom I shared with my husband had an alarmingly slow drain, leading to near floods each time we showered (and we’re quick showers), while all three bathrooms were short on counter space.

Dust was noticeable on a few surfaces, and some lamps were nonfunctional. These issues are likely to be resolved during the upcoming renovation, but for now, don’t anticipate a spotless room.

I had read in various articles about the Caledonian that road noise could disrupt the rooms due to the hotel’s historic status limiting window upgrades. However, that wasn't our experience. Despite having a busy bus stop almost directly beneath us, we enjoyed restful sleep.

What we dined on at the Caledonian Edinburgh

The Caledonian boasts two full-service restaurants helmed by renowned Scottish chefs: Dean Banks at The Pompadour and Grazing by Mark Greenaway, both of which remain at the hotel post-rebranding. Since it was still a Waldorf Astoria during our spring visit, we also found a location of the chain's Peacock Alley, typically serving breakfast, light lunch, and afternoon tea, although it wasn't operational during our stay. The hotel's classic bar is named The Caley.

While this area is likely undergoing transformation at the moment, on our first night, my husband and I ventured to Peacock Alley for some drinks. The hotel aimed for a chic and glamorous atmosphere reminiscent of other Waldorf properties' Peacock Alleys, and it came quite close to achieving that. The space is quite expansive, as it used to serve as the main station entrance, featuring lofty ceilings. Two- and four-top tables along with booths were distributed throughout, and during our visit, a jazz quartet was performing. The ambiance was delightful, but the area felt somewhat oversized for its intended use. You'd need at least a hundred guests to create a lively atmosphere in the lounge.

In the morning, we enjoyed breakfast at Grazing by Mark Greenaway. The extensive buffet offered American, continental, and traditional Scottish fare, along with fruit and yogurt for the health-conscious. My family tried everything from pancakes to haggis, all of which were delicious—except for the vegan haggis (who thought that was a good idea?). A highlight was the make-your-own bloody mary bar, the perfect antidote for the morning after an Edinburgh pub crawl.

That evening, we dined at Grazing as well. I opted for the venison loin ($48), while my family savored grilled salmon ($44) and a rib-eye ($51). I might be a bit biased since venison is one of my favorites and I don’t often get to enjoy it, but this dish was a highlight of my trip. The loin was crusted with cocoa, which sounds unusual, yet it complemented the meat’s flavor beautifully. The grilled Scottish salmon was cooked to perfect pinkness, while the rib-eye was juicy but rather ordinary. For sides, we chose fries and macaroni and cheese ($7.60 each). Both were decent additions, but again, nothing remarkable.

Amenities and Activities

• The Caledonian features a pool and spa, though they can be a bit tricky to locate as they're nestled deep within the historic train station. The pool includes a hot tub and nearby sauna, along with changing facilities.
• The hotel is conveniently located next to Princes Street Gardens and just across the street from Johnnie Walker Princes Street. It's an easy walk to the Scott Monument, the National Galleries of Scotland, and the shopping and dining spots in New Town.
• While the hotel is near Edinburgh Castle, unless you’ve brought climbing gear, prepare for a hike. Getting to the castle and attractions in Old Town involves approximately a 3/4-mile trek, much of it up a steep incline. The Palace at Holyrood House is 1.5 miles away, and the Royal Yacht Britannia is 3 miles distant.
• Make sure to chat with the doorman, clerks, and restaurant staff. They’re warm and welcoming, eager to share insider stories about the hotel and offer local recommendations.
• The Caledonian is housed in a historic building, which can present some accessibility challenges. The elevators are small but should accommodate most mobility aids, although space for additional passengers may be limited. The hallways and doorways are spacious and bright, with accessible rooms featuring 32-inch doorways and grab bars in the bathrooms. Note that the sauna, pool, and hot tub are not accessible. For further details and to ensure a comfortable stay, it’s best to contact the hotel directly.

Final Thoughts

I find myself wishing that The Caledonian Edinburgh, Curio Collection by Hilton had a more concise name, but more importantly, I wish I could have stayed longer.

The historic ambiance may not resonate with every traveler, but it creates a wonderful experience for those who appreciate history and architecture. The location is exceptional, providing easy access to local attractions and neighborhoods. While the dining options are decent, exploring further afield is recommended for a truly remarkable culinary adventure, given Edinburgh's vibrant restaurant scene.

During our visit, the hotel fell short of Waldorf luxury standards despite its premium pricing, and the building's age has introduced some quirks. We're looking forward to the upcoming renovation and rebranding. Here's to hoping the hotel maintains its Old World charm and friendly staff for years to come, and that redeeming points remains a straightforward process.