Exploring Europe with my mother

Dinogo Planet’s Senior Director of Content has just returned from an 11-day journey across the Mediterranean and Adriatic seas. Here, she shares some highlights from the adventure along with tips for traveling with an elderly parent.

My 83-year-old mother has dreamt of visiting Positano, Italy. This stunning destination on the Amalfi Coast has captivated many, including literary figures like Goethe and Steinbeck, and high-profile couples like Jacqueline and Aristotle Onassis—it’s a place with undeniable charm.

For years, I pondered how to make her dream a reality, even if just for a day. The thought was overwhelming until I discovered a Silversea cruise that included a stop in Sorrento, a short trip from Positano. I decided to take the plunge, despite my concerns about the heat and crowds. We booked in May, ready to set sail from Rome at the end of June.

Before finalizing our plans, I considered all the logistics involved in traveling with an older parent. This means managing flights, creating packing lists, and organizing excursions and reservations. Although it wasn't always straightforward, we both achieved our goal: a memorable experience of togetherness and exploration.

Before diving into our adventures and insights, here’s a quick overview of key details that may assist you in planning a similar journey:

• When to arrive: Make sure to give yourself at least one full day before your cruise departs. I arrived two days early to enjoy a solo day in Rome.
• How to get from the airport: If you're capable, take the train to your destination. Since my mom was coming from the West Coast with an 8-hour layover, I arranged a car and driver for her beforehand.
• Getting around town: I explored on foot, but public transportation in Rome is excellent. My mom needed to rely on taxis.
• Where to stay: Consider lodging near the cruise port (located in Civitavecchia, about 90 minutes from the city center). I stayed at Hotel Locarno, close to Piazza del Popolo, which featured lovely design, an outdoor breakfast garden, and a rooftop bar for dinner.
• What to pack: I closely followed this packing list. It was the peak of summer, so I packed plenty of sunscreen, a hat, comfortable walking shoes, and light linen outfits.

Which cruise line did you choose? What were the ports of call?

We enjoyed an 11-night voyage on a Silversea Cruises ship, the Silver Whisper. Our journey began in Civitavecchia, Rome, with stops at: Sorrento (and the Amalfi Coast); Trapani in Sicily; Tunis, Tunisia; Valletta, Malta; Monopoli, Italy; Kotor, Montenegro; and Korčula, Šibenik, and Rovinj in Croatia. We concluded our journey in Venice before flying home.

This was my second experience with Silversea, and I booked it only a month in advance, confident in the exceptional service and small ship environment, perfect for my mom. Silversea is a luxury cruise line renowned for its attentive service (every suite comes with a butler and an attendant); all-inclusive dining and beverages across four restaurants; a bar offering coffee and snacks throughout the day; excellent room service (not just typical 'cruise' fare); specialized excursions (some included, some at an extra cost); and on-board entertainment (including nightly shows, live music, and games). We chose a Classic Veranda Suite, which is their second-tier option.

What was the most touristy activity you participated in?

Our day trip along the Amalfi Coast was precisely what I anticipated. To say it was challenging would be an understatement. However, this was the main purpose of our trip, so we opted for a special excursion that would take us by minibus to Positano.

Our 9am Friday excursion began with a tender ride to the port in Sorrento, where we met our guide and driver. The drive to Positano was surprisingly brief—just 40 minutes—but absolutely stunning. The early start helped us avoid heavy traffic, and within an hour, we were exploring the charming town.

Upon arrival, I encountered exactly what I had dreaded: crowds and heat at 10am. My mom, who uses a cane, faced challenges due to the steep and uneven terrain of this beautiful seaside town, which has slippery paths and stairs without handrails. We had to move slowly, frequently stopping to rest in the shade.

When I say I nearly lost my patience with the 50 tourists who seemed determined to push my mother aside during our chaotic descent... well, you can imagine. The overwhelming number of visitors cramming into this tiny gem each summer makes enjoying Positano (and the Amalfi Coast) quite difficult, especially for those with mobility issues. However, after about an hour, we finally reached the beach, where the crowds seemed to thin out for a moment.

Our excursion included a delightful lunch at a luxury hotel, dining at Il Covo dei Saraceni, situated just above the northern end of the beach. Here, we could savor the breathtaking view of the water, dotted with yachts and framed by the colorful buildings that cling to the vertical cliffs. It was a picture-perfect scene, enjoyed from a serene vantage point.

This lunch was exactly what my mother had envisioned. The meal was a treat: Prosecco, perfectly ripe tomatoes, mozzarella, and pasta—everything you could hope for. We left Positano feeling content and joyful, despite the crowds spilling off the ferries and the hot uphill trek back!

The key takeaway: my mother was utterly delighted by the entire experience, even with the minor inconveniences. Her dream was fulfilled, and we won’t need to repeat it again.

What was the most useful item you packed?

It had to be the J. Crew wide brim raffia hat. I picked it up just a day before my departure, during that familiar moment of panic before a big trip, thinking I would get some use out of it. I ended up wearing it every single day. Plus, this hat is actually packable, unlike the many I’ve crushed in my suitcase that never return to their original shape.

Which port was your favorite?

Korčula, Croatia. We had no set plans, but as soon as we boarded the tender to the island, I realized this was a place I would want to revisit. The pros and cons of cruise travel are two sides of the same coin: 1) You get to explore numerous destinations in one trip. 2) However, you're never there long enough to truly dive into the experience.

Yet, if you’re someone who sees the glass as half full, the downside means you’re already dreaming of returning to a place you might not have discovered otherwise (like Korčula) to spend more time and engage with it on a deeper level.

During our day, we simply meandered along the coast and through the winding streets of the old town. I couldn’t capture a bad shot; every glance revealed a photo opportunity I hadn’t anticipated. I know that like many stunning locations in the Adriatic, it can get busy in the summer, bustling with tourists, but on this particular day, it felt wonderfully tranquil.

We enjoyed lunch at Filippi, situated along the tree-lined waterfront promenade on the eastern side of town. Nestled in the shade, we watched passersby and the sparkling water. It’s no surprise that I found Korčula to be such a delightful find, especially since it is the birthplace of Marco Polo.

What was the best meal?

In Monopoli, Italy, I booked us a lovely lunch at Locanda sul Porto, located just west of the harbor. They offer a charming covered patio, but we chose to dine indoors by an open French window. I started with an Aperol spritz, followed by fresh oysters and seafood pasta, and we concluded our meal with a delectable chocolate dessert. The staff were attentive and incredibly friendly – we left with big smiles. Even though it was just a random Wednesday and we arrived right at opening time, the place was bustling with locals.

What’s the best advice for anyone planning a similar trip?

When traveling with Silversea, especially on the Whisper, it's crucial to reserve your preferred restaurants, spa services, and excursions ahead of time. Since we booked our trip last minute, I overlooked making dining reservations (almost all on board except one require advance booking) until the choices were limited. Many included excursions were already fully booked, and I missed out on the massage I wanted. Additionally, while I planned a few activities on shore, I should have arranged more lunches and dinners to fully enjoy our time off the ship.

That said, we were never disappointed. The Restaurant (the only dining option that doesn’t require a reservation) featured different specials each night, keeping things interesting and reflective of the ports we visited. We also enjoyed ordering room service, especially their massive burger and sweet potato fries.

My top meal aboard the ship was definitely at La Dame, the exquisite French fine dining restaurant. While there is an extra charge, it’s absolutely worth it. The sole meunière (fish in a zesty lemon butter sauce with parsley) rivaled any I’ve tasted, even in France. And I can’t forget the caviar service, complete with bits of egg, shallots, crème fraîche, and those soft, fluffy blinis. I still find myself dreaming about those delicate little spoons.