Follow My Journey: a week of island hopping in the Azores

Dinogo Planet editor AnneMarie McCarthy has just come back from an action-packed week in the Azores, exploring four islands in just 7 days.

As the fortunate destination editor overseeing Dinogo Planet’s Portugal features, I can confidently say that you all adore the Azores. Each week, I witness how readers like you are eagerly discovering these lush islands, which are highly praised by your well-traveled friends.

Upon receiving an invitation from Visit Azores, I swiftly grabbed my rain jacket and sunscreen to experience the archipelago firsthand. During the week, I explored the islands of São Miguel, Pico, Faial, and Terceira, primarily traveling by plane but also taking a ferry.

What was the most touristy activity you engaged in?

The most touristy experience I had turned out to be my favorite: a dolphin and whale-watching tour that departed from Ponta Delgada on São Miguel. I’ve often struggled with wildlife sightings, but knowing the Azores is one of the premier spots globally for cetacean viewing filled me with hope. The best time to embark is between April and early July, as this is when whales migrate and more species frequent the waters. During nearly three hours at sea, we spotted dolphins, orcas, sperm whales, and pilot whales. While the whales maintained a safe distance, the dolphins were playful, swimming close to our boat and chasing each other.

Only a few companies in the Azores have the license for this activity, and they all adhere to strict 'rules of engagement'—like never approaching the animals head-on and maintaining a respectful distance (the more boats in the vicinity, the further away they must keep). Fortunately, these regulations don’t diminish your chances of sightings. I chose Futurismo, which runs two to three trips daily. Their confidence in successful sightings is so strong that if you don't spot anything, you can join another tour for free.

What was the most useful item you packed?

My rain jacket. While the sun shone frequently, sudden showers could appear without warning. The weather forecasts on the islands can be unreliable—especially when you’re outdoors hiking for long periods. A lightweight, waterproof jacket allows you to trek for hours without concern.

However well you prepare, avoid hiking off the trails to protect the delicate endemic flora. Additionally, wild camping is prohibited anywhere on the islands, so you’ll always find nearby official accommodations.

What’s your favorite photograph from the trip, and where was it taken?

This photo was captured at the base of the dormant volcano, Algar do Carvão. Only three places in the world allow you to venture inside such a structure: Indonesia, Iceland, and here in the heart of Terceira Island. A short tunnel leads you to the interior, which doesn’t feel cramped as you can gaze up at the sky above.

You can also delve deeper into the caves to experience their cathedral-like spaces, all sculpted from volcanic rock. For a truly unique experience, occasional concerts are held here.

What’s your best tip for someone planning a similar trip?

Focus on fewer islands or extend your stay! Given that the Azores are situated in the middle of the Atlantic, the allure of island hopping is strong, especially in summer when travelers face fewer weather-related disruptions and cancellations. I suggest choosing two islands that align with your travel preferences for each week in the Azores. You could expand to three islands, depending on their size and how close they are to each other. (For instance, Pico is quite small and just an hour away from Faial by ferry, making it a quicker and more convenient option than flying.)

The Azores are all about outdoor adventures and delicious food, with every island offering both in abundance. Most accommodations provide a tranquil atmosphere, making it essential to have enough time to unwind and truly appreciate your surroundings.

Where did you stay, and what was the ambiance like?

With all the island hopping came a variety of charming hotels, each offering a unique experience. In São Miguel, the nature-inspired Senhora da Rosa was delightful, featuring an outdoor pool and rooms decorated with themes from the surrounding landscape. The on-site restaurant, Magma, served up a fantastic final meal of my journey.

The rooms at Pico’s Aldeia da Fonte Hotel are constructed from volcanic rock, yet they evoke a nostalgic feel reminiscent of American summer camps (at least, how they’re portrayed on TV). The property includes a seaside walkway with a terrace for wave-watching and a ladder leading down to the cove for a refreshing swim. It’s the perfect spot to unwind after a day of hiking Mt Pico.

Faial’s Hotel do Canal is located right on the pier, making it an ideal base for exploring the bright murals created by sailors throughout history. Plus, it’s just a stone’s throw from the famous Peter Café Sport, where a lemon gin-and-tonic is always a good choice.

Located just a 10-minute stroll from the historic center of Angra do Heroismo, Quinta da Nasce Água feels like a peaceful countryside retreat. The staff here were exceptionally friendly, just like everywhere I stayed during my visit.

What was the best dish you tried?

This question is challenging! I relished amazing meals all week, ranging from traditional favorites to creative dishes. Given that it’s Portugal, expect a menu rich in meat, but I also had the most delicious mushroom risotto of my life at Sensi Azores Hotel. Don’t miss trying a cozido das Furnas, which features an assortment of meats cooked in a clay pot that’s buried to harness the geothermal heat. I watched the cozido pots being retrieved from Furnas Lake before enjoying mine at the well-known Tony’s.

Another highlight was dining at Pico’s renowned Cella Bar, where I enjoyed wine and tapas while taking in a stunning view of Faial on a breezy day. Be sure to sample Terceira’s famous Dona Amélia cake, a delightful sticky treat with a hint of spice. Each island boasts its own unique pastry! Additionally, I highly recommend the alcatra from Quinta do Martelo: a comforting stew slowly cooked in a clay pot with wine until the meat is tender and flavorful.

Did I mention that the food in the Azores is fantastic?

AnneMarie McCarthy traveled to the Azores as a guest of Visit Azores. Dinogo Planet does not accept complimentary services for favorable coverage.