Follow My Journey: An Epic Expedition in Norway's Southern Fjords - Crowd-Free

A fan of rugged, cold, and mountainous landscapes, Dinogo Planet writer Kerry Walker ventured into Norway's southern fjords to discover the essence of 'friluftsliv' (the art of outdoor living). Here, she shares a glimpse of her adventures.

From the moment I first arrived in Norway ten years ago, I longed to explore the true fjords. To avoid the summer throngs and cruise ships, I crafted my own itinerary from Stavanger to Bergen during late spring. I discovered an area of breathtaking beauty, filled with roaring rivers, deep blue fjords, and glacier-capped peaks, all waiting for adventure.

Visit in May or early June to enjoy much of the area to yourself. This is when the fjords are at their most picturesque, with vibrant blossoms, cascading waterfalls fueled by melting ice, lingering snow on the peaks, and extended daylight that lets you savor every moment.

Where did you stay? How was the atmosphere?

I experienced four distinct accommodations, all nature-focused getaways with stunning views. Haukali33/3 offers a serene simplicity reminiscent of a past era. I spent a delightful off-grid night in a turf-roofed husmannshus (cottage), where owner Reidunn transformed her grandfather's farm into a peaceful lakeside retreat. Here, you can swim, hike, admire the mountains, and fish for trout in the family rowboat. At night, the soothing sound of countless sheep bells lulls you to sleep. It’s simply wonderful.

I was fortunate to stay in one of the sleek, architect-designed Star Lodges at The Bolder, perched on the cliffs above Lysefjord. Nestled above an enchanting forest, Tveita Adventure offered a magical front-row view of the Ryfylke fjords. Additionally, I’ll always cherish the night I spent 10 meters high in a pine tree above Odda at Sørfjorden at Woodnest—a true childhood dream come to life.

What was your most unforgettable meal?

The sushi at Michelin-starred Sabi Omakase in Stavanger, where chef Roger Joya infuses Nordic elements into some of the finest seafood you'll ever taste. The dimly lit venue is intimate, accommodating only 10 fortunate diners. In the open kitchen, chefs meticulously craft each bite-sized dish. From langoustines and oysters to reindeer sashimi and salmon belly nigiri with wild garlic—everything is simply divine.

Where did you escape the crowds?

The Folgefonna glacier in Folgefonna National Park, a breathtaking wilderness of mountains, ice, and lush forests straight from a Tolkien tale. Since May is still early in the season, I had the trail largely to myself during an unforgettable half-day hike through the Buer valley, navigating fern-draped forests, streams, boulders, and snow to viewpoints offering stunning vistas of the glacier above and the valley below.

What was your most unforgettable adventure?

A RIB boat tour on Hardangerfjord. The second-largest fjord in Norway left me in awe with its breathtaking beauty. I joined Hardangerfjord Adventure in Øystese to truly experience the raw power of nature. In May, the waterfalls were at their most spectacular, crashing over sheer cliffs into vibrant turquoise waters. Our oohs and aahs bounced off the 800m-high rock walls as we zipped across the fjord, getting close to misty, rainbow-hued falls and passing tiny, forgotten hamlets like Botnen (home to a lone sheep farmer) and the islet of Kvamsøy (one woman and 30 goats).

For an adrenaline rush, nothing compares to donning a dry suit and snorkel and diving into the swift, crystal-clear, salmon-rich Suldalslågen river at Mo Laksegard, further south in Sand. While it was too early in the season to spot salmon, the sensation of floating like a fish at what felt like a hundred miles per hour in the icy river was unforgettable.

What’s your top cultural tip?

Spend some time in Stavanger. If you linger for a day or two, you'll discover a vibrant, cultured city brimming with striking street art, Antony Gormley sculptures, a bustling harbor, and a charming old town (Gamle Stavanger) filled with timber-framed alleys.

What souvenirs should you take home?

Eplesider (apple cider). In May, the landscape was a canvas of white from blooming apple trees. These trees produce exceptional ciders, particularly from the orchard-lined shores of Hardangerfjord. My top choice is Apal Sideri in Hjelmaland, overlooking Jøsenfjorden, where Dan Olav Sæbø has transformed the local cider scene since winning gold at the Frankfurt World Cider Awards in 2020. Sample the crisp, sparkling Sølvsider, a rosé cider with a hint of raspberry, or the intensely apple-flavored Issider (ice cider) in the tasting room before purchasing.

What essentials should you bring?

Gear that can withstand whatever the weather throws your way. Norwegians fully embrace friluftsliv (outdoor living), and you'll be spending plenty of time outdoors. A solid pair of hiking boots, like the leather Scarpa ones I used to scale the Folgefonna glacier, is essential. Also pack trekking pants, base layers, a wind- and waterproof jacket (even in summer), and a backpack to carry it all. Fjällräven offers high-quality Scandinavian gear.